tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35541868709255007202024-03-14T01:13:24.692-04:00Close GrainWoodworking in the digital ageSteve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.comBlogger271125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-59878813620039616562021-11-06T12:43:00.002-04:002021-11-06T12:43:53.983-04:00Virtual Private Lessons Now Available<p>I'm now offering virtual private lessons online, subject to schedule availability.</p><p>I had done some experimentation with lessons over Skype in the past. Now with the pandemic, we've all upgraded our communication setups, and the online tools have gotten much better. So it's even more practical and viable.</p><p>See <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/p/hand-tool-instruction.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Hand Tool Instruction</a> for full details.</p>Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-55595277609797513082021-05-02T10:09:00.003-04:002021-05-02T10:09:53.221-04:00Resuming Private Hand Tool Woodworking Lessons Summer 2021<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/H1oDNdjfkrK75XompWXHiw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ff-lk0MBquo/TEj0nquK7-I/AAAAAAAACvc/8b7YxRI8Mso/s400/widetools-1.jpg" /></a>
<p>I'm happy to announce that I'll be resuming private lessons for hand tool woodworking this summer in my basement workshop in Ayer, MA. The anticipated start will be late June, 2021.</p><p>By that time, it will have been at least 2 weeks after my second coronavirus vaccination. I require that all participants have completed their round of vaccinations at least 2 weeks prior to any lessons. For everyone's protection, I'll be adding a portable HEPA air filter unit capable of cycling workshop air several times an hour.</p><p>Private lessons mean you get to choose what to spend time on, and at what pace and schedule. I have a standard curriculum of eight 3-hour sessions, but you can pick and choose what things to spend more or less time on, and how much time you want to spend per class.</p><p>You can bring your own tools, or use any of mine. I can provide inexpensive practice materials, or you can provide your own.</p><p>See <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/p/hand-tool-instruction.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Hand Tool Instruction</a> for full details.</p>Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-19342574939367164562021-03-14T16:57:00.003-04:002021-03-14T17:27:28.114-04:00Remembering Phil Lowe<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mBAwTG7QzKY/YE5osx2vyAI/AAAAAAAAbDc/OwgjwhAnT7Ai3BzBuIaWWEcnkHZcFZWJACPcBGAsYHg/s800/img_2669.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="793" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mBAwTG7QzKY/YE5osx2vyAI/AAAAAAAAbDc/OwgjwhAnT7Ai3BzBuIaWWEcnkHZcFZWJACPcBGAsYHg/w396-h400/img_2669.jpg" width="396" /></a></div><span style="color: #274e13;"><i>Quintessential Phil: a welcoming smile and the ever-present pencil tucked behind his ear at the December, 2011 Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event at FIM in Beverly, MA.<br /></i></span><p>I was deeply saddened to learn of the passing in January of Philip C. Lowe. Phil was an icon and a master of the woodworking craft.</p><p>I never took an actual class from him, but I consider him one of my primary teachers. I had read his articles and reprints in books and magazines for years before I got the chance to meet him.</p><p>That came at <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2011/05/peter-follansbee-sapfm-new-england.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">the May, 2011 meeting</a> of the Society of American Period Furniture Makers (<a href="https://www.sapfm.org/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">SAPFM</a>), of which Phil was a member and Cartouche Award recipient. The meeting was held at his Furniture Institute of Massachusetts (FIM).</p><p>I was very nervous and shy about meeting one of my heroes, but he was instantly friendly and disarming. That's what comes through in everyone's description of Phil. Not only did he love the craft, he loved sharing it with others and passing it on.</p><p>Over the next 8 years I had the privilege of attending several SAPFM meetings and demonstrations at FIM, as well as participating in a number of <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2011/12/lie-nielsen-hand-tool-event-at-fim.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Events held there</a>.</p><p>Phil was what I call a "shut up and watch" guy, as in, shut up and watch what he's doing, because every move is a lesson in skill and efficiency. He was amazingly fast at handwork, the evidence of 50 years of experience. I learned a great deal that way.</p><p>He was incredibly generous with his time and knowledge. Nothing illustrates that more than the time I showed him one of the video clips from the <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2015/05/popular-woodworking-university-intro-to.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">then-Popular Woodworking University "Intro To Hand Tools" online course</a> I was putting together.</p><p>Phil was obviously in business to earn a living teaching woodworking, and here I was a mere hobbyist showing him the online class I was offering.</p><p>It didn't bother him a bit. He watched with an appraising eye, then said, "That's good. You should also show this, and that," as we discussed some additional things to present. The consummate teacher and mentor.</p><p>That's the Phil Lowe I will always remember. Nothing but supportive. I continue to feel privileged to be one of the custodians of the knowledge he passed on to us, which I will continue pass on to others.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6ZpI7IF6aY/YE52EMjsNkI/AAAAAAAAbEA/GthC3cmPHa8sprIa3jRxw_hVZr6t6FziQCPcBGAsYHg/s3502/IMG_20210314_164129235.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3502" data-original-width="3072" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6ZpI7IF6aY/YE52EMjsNkI/AAAAAAAAbEA/GthC3cmPHa8sprIa3jRxw_hVZr6t6FziQCPcBGAsYHg/w351-h400/IMG_20210314_164129235.jpg" width="351" /></a></div><i><span style="color: #274e13;">One of my treasured lessons from Phil.<br /></span></i><p>There are some wonderful remembrances of Phil at <a href="https://www.nbss.edu/blog/detail/~post/in-memory-phil-lowe" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">the North Bennett St. School</a>, where he was a student, then instructor, then department head, before heading off on his own to found FIM; and at <a href="https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/01/12/remembering-philip-c-lowe" rel="nofollow" style="font-style: italic;" target="_blank">Fine Woodworking</a> and <a href="https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/02/19/phil-lowe-a-craftsman-and-gentleman" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a>, where he was a contributor for over 30 years.</p>Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-79108810969483031072018-06-30T13:41:00.000-04:002018-06-30T13:42:23.903-04:00Review: 52 Boxes In 52 Weeks, By Matt Kenney<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9_YIoN1V8cA/WzeqQTvERcI/AAAAAAAASZU/Xe8WrPPx7T4XH-iQ1n5VjFX_YvK0mPCNACLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0308.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1349" data-original-width="1600" height="337" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9_YIoN1V8cA/WzeqQTvERcI/AAAAAAAASZU/Xe8WrPPx7T4XH-iQ1n5VjFX_YvK0mPCNACLcBGAs/s400/DSCN0308.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-style: italic;">52 Boxes In 52 Weeks, The Taunton Press, $24.95, 224pp, May, 2018</span><br />
<br />
<i>Full disclosure: I was given a copy of this book by the publisher for review.</i><br />
<br />
This is a wonderful design book by <i>Fine Woodworking</i> senior editor Matt Kenney. It's the result of a challenge he set for himself to practice his design skills: design and build a small box every week for a year.<br />
<br />
The boxes are largely simple in construction, using a limited set of techniques, since the construction process was not the main point of the exercise. Instead, he explores a wide range of shape, proportion, materials, and decoration.<br />
<br />
The idea is that like any other skill, practicing design allows you to refine it, analyzing what you like or don't like about each iteration. That also broadens your perspective as you explore the limits to a wider degree than you might otherwise.<br />
<br />
The end result is a collection of boxes with different appeal to different tastes. Reproducing these boxes would make great gifts. They are beautiful, with a clean, spare design.<br />
<br />
But more to the point, Matt wants to encourage you to explore your own design space. This was his result, his personal aesthetic. Yours may be different.<br />
<br />
<b>Design Principles</b><br />
<br />
He follows several design principles, outlined in the introductory chapter.<br />
<br />
First is proportion. He says this is critical. Good proportions result in intuitive beauty. Poor proportions can turn even the finest project clunky.<br />
<br />
Second is simplicity. These are not heavily adorned. He limits them to just a few distinguishing design elements.<br />
<br />
Third, he ensures that all elements are in proportion to the scale of the box.<br />
<br />
Fourth, he develops the details, thinking about every little one from the joinery to the widths of rabbets and the amount of shadow line and reveal.<br />
<br />
Fifth, he chooses the wood carefully, including its grain and imperfections. Every little knot or wave in the grain is meant to be where it ended up. Design is intentional, not accidental. Wood is a natural medium with natural variation. The design challenge here is to make use of that variation.<br />
<br />
He further utilizes the grain by making it continuous all the way around each box. That provides a natural flow and continuity rather than a jarring transition. Achieving continuous grain is one of the few technical descriptions in the book.<br />
<br />
Sixth, he adds a small degree of color. He uses milk paint to add to the natural wood color, sometimes harmonizing with it, sometimes contrasting.<br />
<br />
The book itself follows this. The various page elements adorning the text and photos pick up the color flash of each project.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Finally, he softens the inside with a carefully fitted piece of fabric. The proportion of the pattern and the color must complement the scale of the box and the color of the wood.<br />
<br />
These provide the parameters for the variation in design.<br />
<br />
<b>Techniques</b><br />
<br />
In general the construction techniques are simple, but a brief chapter on box-making techniques details the following:<br />
<ul>
<li>Resawing to achieve continuous grain.</li>
<li>Crosscutting and mitering.</li>
<li>Lids that don't need hinges.</li>
<li>Stable bottoms with various decorations.</li>
<li>Finishing with shellac and milk paint.</li>
</ul>
Several of the box projects include specific techniques such as wedge-shaped sides, drilling out round interiors, fitting lifting strips around a lid, and making pulls, feet, and bases. The most detailed one shows the steps for making kumiko, a Japanese decorative lattice.<br />
<br />
One thing to note is that these are mostly small boxes in thin stock, so the work requires precision. I had the pleasure of watching Matt work on several of these when we happened to be demonstrating at the same Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Events. Watching him fit the joints and dividers, carefully shaving them on a small shooting board, was fascinating.<br />
<br />
Building boxes like this will not only improve your design skills, it will improve your fine hand skills.<br />
<br />
<b>The Boxes</b><br />
<br />
The remainder of the book shows several pages on each box individually. Matt describes what went into the design and what he was trying to explore with it, then describes how he constructed it.<br />
<br />
This portion of the book opens with a two-page spread showing all the boxes. It's especially nice to let your eyes range around this layout to compare the variations. Different things will jump out at you.<br />
<br />
There are flat boxes, wide boxes, short boxes, tall boxes, divided boxes, stacked boxes, and boxes with drawers. Each features just a couple of design elements of color and fittings.<br />
<br />
My favorites were the divided boxes. I like compartments. I guess they appeal to my sense of organization.<br />
<br />
It's interesting to come back to this spread after having read through all the box projects individually. That changes what jumps out at you.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rez91UpDSYg/WzeqQbpGxbI/AAAAAAAASZQ/kSMo5bonOskxueTZSgutnYosWdF66DM7QCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0309.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1007" data-original-width="1600" height="252" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rez91UpDSYg/WzeqQbpGxbI/AAAAAAAASZQ/kSMo5bonOskxueTZSgutnYosWdF66DM7QCLcBGAs/s400/DSCN0309.png" width="400" /></a>
<br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><i>One of my favorites, a flat divided box made primarily of cherry, with a green milk-painted lid in the center.</i></span><br />
<br />
As Matt notes, the idea of the milk paint and fabric may put some people off at first, but seeing them used with the other design elements, all in careful restraint, is convincing.<br />
<br />
I would never think of hiding cherry under paint, yet the warmth of the wood and the green milk paint in the photo above complement each other nicely, contrasting with the dark kingwood pulls. The result invites you to lift the lids and see what they contain. It's just beautiful.<br />
<br />
These projects all have a delicate, graceful elegance. Some may appeal more to you than others, but they would all make wonderful gifts. The book is an excellent starting point for exploring and refining your own design aesthetic.Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-26019454465010027142018-05-20T12:18:00.000-04:002018-05-20T12:18:28.860-04:00Review: Woodworking With Hand Tools<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dZ4M_RnrhHA/WwB_nbrKGZI/AAAAAAAASE8/OP0oYywEmZU2Wq3TefNwvQwPzydnXW2jACLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0198.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1550" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dZ4M_RnrhHA/WwB_nbrKGZI/AAAAAAAASE8/OP0oYywEmZU2Wq3TefNwvQwPzydnXW2jACLcBGAs/s320/DSCN0198.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">Woodworking With Hand Tools: Tools, Techniques and Projects, The Taunton Press, $24.95, 240pp, April, 2018</span></i><br />
<br />
<i>Full disclosure: I was given a copy of this book by the publisher for review.</i><br />
<br />
This is another gorgeous book. It's an anthology of 33 hand tool articles collected from the past 10 years of <i>Fine Woodworking</i> magazine, by the following authors:<br />
<ul>
<li>Christian Becksvoort</li>
<li>Brian Boggs</li>
<li>Tom Calisto</li>
<li>Dan Faia</li>
<li>John Reed Fox</li>
<li>Chris Gochnour</li>
<li>Garrett Hack</li>
<li>Andrew Hunter</li>
<li>Matt Kenney</li>
<li>Philip C. Lowe</li>
<li>Tim Manney</li>
<li>Jeff Miller</li>
<li>Norman Pirollo</li>
<li>Timothy Rousseau</li>
<li>Matthew Teague</li>
<li>Vic Tesolin</li>
<li>Bob Van Dyke</li>
</ul>
They all do excellent work. Phil Lowe and Garrett Hack in particular are a couple of my woodworking heroes, whom I've been following for years.<br />
<br />
The book is divided into 3 parts, with excellent photography to capture the fine details. In addition to western style tools, there are several articles on Japanese tools. It's an excellent resource for anyone interested in learning or expanding hand tool woodworking skills.<br />
<br />
In general, the articles cover the details of fine work after the parts have been roughed-out and dimensioned, although there is one article on rough stock preparation with Japanese tools that applies equally well to western tools.<br />
<br />
Most of the authors use a combination of power and hand tools in their day to day work. They typically do the rough work of breaking down lumber and getting it close to final dimensions on machines, then shift over to hand tools for the final dimensioning and detail work.<br />
<br />
<b>Tools</b><br />
<br />
Part One contains 14 articles on tools. In addition to a general article covering an essential hand tool kit, they cover squares, gauges, and calipers; and scrapers, specialty planes, chisels, and small handsaws. Three of the articles cover sharpening: card scrapers, cabinet scrapers, and using diamond sharpening stones.<br />
<br />
Vic Tesolin's article "4 Planes for Joinery" is my favorite in this section. These specialty planes are invaluable for fine tuning precise joints.<br />
<br />
<b>Techniques</b><br />
<br />
Part Two contains 12 articles on techniques. They cover general tool use techniques, stock preparation, fine fitting and cleanup, mortise and tenon and dovetail joinery, and custom moldings and scratch stocks.<br />
<br />
My favorite in this section is Phil Lowe's "4 Chisel Tricks". This article changed the way I made tenons when I first read it in the magazine.<br />
<br />
<b>Projects</b><br />
<br />
Part Three contains 7 articles on building tools and jigs used in hand tool work. They cover building custom handsaws and scrapers, specialty grooving planes, a cutting gauge, bench jigs for precision planing, a Japanese tool box, and a shaving horse.<br />
<br />
In this section, my favorite is Norman Pirollo's article "4 Bench Jigs for Handplanes" (I guess the reason my favorites follow a theme of 4 is that they reflect versatility!). These jigs are critical to efficient and precise work. I always tell people the shooting board is the precision secret weapon for hand tool work.<br />
<br />
While I've called out a few personal favorites, all of the methods shown in all the sections are excellent. They reflect their authors' long experience with the craft.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HerT5TPxawI/WwCBQUidlVI/AAAAAAAASFM/1zJw6mPyRZMXn4BgjWfdEEqPXdH2S2a4gCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0200.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1215" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HerT5TPxawI/WwCBQUidlVI/AAAAAAAASFM/1zJw6mPyRZMXn4BgjWfdEEqPXdH2S2a4gCLcBGAs/s320/DSCN0200.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">The layout is easy to read and follow. Here Phil Lowe explains how to sharpen and use a cabinet scraper.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tOjgInCmSqw/WwCBQQuf77I/AAAAAAAASFI/uL6D_rfnCHA2_xCT0VZirfx0ImRT_w_-wCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0204.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tOjgInCmSqw/WwCBQQuf77I/AAAAAAAASFI/uL6D_rfnCHA2_xCT0VZirfx0ImRT_w_-wCLcBGAs/s320/DSCN0204.png" width="400" /></a>
<br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">Closeup photos capture details of the tools in use. Here Chris Gochnour shows how to tackle concave and convex curves with a spokeshave.</span></i><br />
<br />
What's great about a book like this is that no matter how much you know, there's always something new to learn. It might be an entirely new way to tackle a task, or a subtle refinement of a method you already use.<br />
<br />
These increase your versatility, allowing you to adapt to the situation when things aren't going as expected.<br />
<br />
In my case, this book finally gave the best explanation I've seen for why to burnish a card scraper on its flat faces, and the result of that step. I joke that I collect scraper sharpening methods the way other people collect baseball cards. This was a refinement of my current method, and it worked wonderfully when I tried it.<br />
<br />
There were several other instances like that where just one or two photos were sufficient to add to my repertoire. Each increment in technique like that improves my capability.<br />
<br />
The key to making these skills work is to practice them. In fact, the first article on techniques covers a set of skill-building exercises.<br />
<br />
It's useful to take the methods outlined in all the articles and first try them on some softer wood that won't fight you so much, then try them on the harder woods you plan on using for actual projects.<br />
<br />
This book is an excellent compendium, covering a broad range of techniques.<br />
<br />
We're very lucky in New England to have a rich concentration of these excellent instructors. Through membership in the <a href="https://www.sapfm.org/">Society of American Period Furniture Makers (SAPFM)</a> and participation in <a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/hand-tool-events">Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Events</a> and open houses, I've had the privilege of meeting and watching 6 of the 17 authors, particularly Phil Lowe. I've incorporated a number of their techniques into my work.<br />
<br />
As a bonus, here's a video of Phil showing the cabinet scraper sharpening method in his article. I recorded this for him at one of his SAPFM demonstrations.<br />
<br />
<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="231" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/f7DflhyGFDU" width="410"></iframe>Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-68730727891017871242018-04-15T09:56:00.000-04:002018-04-23T05:42:36.298-04:00Review: How To Whittle, By Josh Nava<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4EvjlRorSGc/WtKtx5UzGII/AAAAAAAARxs/u4u2q-uRxuIc9SVyha5ziuFDqlOJ5d_ZwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0187.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1502" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4EvjlRorSGc/WtKtx5UzGII/AAAAAAAARxs/u4u2q-uRxuIc9SVyha5ziuFDqlOJ5d_ZwCLcBGAs/s320/DSCN0187.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">How To Whittle, The Taunton Press, $19.95, 144pp, March, 2018</span></i><br />
<br />
<i>Full disclosure: I was given a copy of this book by the publisher for review.</i><br />
<br />
This is a gorgeous book. It features 25 projects that are a mix of functional and decorative items, carrying on a centuries-old tradition.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.heirloomedcollection.com/heirloomedblog/2015/5/11/behind-the-scenes-with-woodworker-josh-nava">Josh Nava</a> is a hand carver in Nashville, TN, and is the co-founder of <a href="https://suburbanpallet.tumblr.com/">Suburban Pallet</a>, which specializes in hand-crafted goods made from repurposed timber.<br />
<br />
Whittling may bring to mind sitting around the campfire or on the porch, carving on some fallen twigs with a pocketknife to pass the time. The end result may be a memento to keep or just go into the fire.<br />
<br />
The items in this book are of a more permanent nature. This is what I know as treen or treenware, treen meaning "of the tree". Treen was common when everyday household items were carved from wood.<br />
<br />
The book starts with a 20-page chapter on techniques, covering choosing wood, tools, sharpening, safety, knifework, preparing blanks, and finishing.<br />
<br />
The projects are covered in 112 pages, 3-5 pages each. It ends with a page on resources, and an index.<br />
<br />
One of the points Nava makes is that whittling is a very accessible craft. It requires few tools, and the work is done in green wood, using mostly found material.<br />
<br />
The results are beautiful and practical, useful for decades. Whittled items show a distinctive faceting that lends a rustic elegance and reveals their handmade provenance. These are personal. Meanwhile, making them teaches you properties of wood, elements of design, and hand skills.<br />
<br />
"Green woodworking" means using freshly cut or fallen wood that hasn't yet been processed or dried. <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/search/label/Green%20Woodworking">I'm familiar with it</a> from the books of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&keywords=drew%20langsner&index=aps&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=xm2&linkId=919952e901fd6e7d5eebbeb9d1515497">Drew Langsner</a>, as well as demonstrations by his protege, <a href="https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/spoons-for-sale-march-2018/">Peter Follansbee</a>, and the work of <a href="http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/">Robin Wood</a>.<br />
<br />
Nava does a wonderful job of distilling this into a concise, easy to follow book. The projects provide enough coverage to give you a wide range of capabilities.<br />
<br />
This book will have you scouring the neighborhood and countryside for fallen trees and branches. Wind storms will mean good harvest days. Here in New England, there's ALWAYS someone who has something down.<br />
<div>
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />
It's a good way to use <a href="https://amzn.to/2vgZdDD">urban timber</a>, so you might want to check with tree services and municipal maintenance departments for material.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Tools</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The tool list is short:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Knives: </b>used for medium and fine shaping. These are somewhat specialized, particularly the hook knife. They're not common pocketknives.</li>
<li><b>Small hatchets and hand axes:</b> used to prepare blanks (that is, preparing tree trunk sections or branches to the rough blanks that will be shaped into objects) and for rough shaping.</li>
<li><b>Folding saw:</b> sufficient for most harvesting.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
You can find the <a href="https://amzn.to/2EMfxfe">knives</a>, <a href="https://amzn.to/2IU6QSC">hatchets</a> (including <a href="https://amzn.to/2JM5fQ7">some very fine ones</a>) and <a href="https://amzn.to/2HmSKg7">saws</a> online, with a variety of commercial and <a href="https://pinewoodforge.com/">custom products</a> available.<br />
<br />
Remember that this is for green wood, possibly some fairly large branches, so a longer saw with coarse teeth is best; he recommends 10-14".</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Robin Wood covers some information on where to obtain <a href="http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/wood-craft-blog/2013/01/29/best-spoon-carving-knife-hook-knife/">knives</a> and <a href="http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/wood-craft-blog/2010/07/25/which-is-the-best-axe-for-carving-bushcraft-general-use/">axes</a>. While it is somewhat dated, you have the benefit of experienced opinion.<br />
<br />
As with any tools, investing in quality items will avoid heartache later, so beware of buying the cheapest based on price alone.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Techniques</b></div>
<div>
<br />
The skill list is similarly short. For knifework, Nava goes through five cuts that he uses throughout the projects. To prepare blanks, he outlines five general steps.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Projects</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Nava opens each project with a page showing a photo of the finished item and a list of materials and tools.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4srluUiHXwU/WtKtvJiVWZI/AAAAAAAARxk/fP4tI5yCGKkhBdUO9OybNAUYVarfA4YogCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0188.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1258" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4srluUiHXwU/WtKtvJiVWZI/AAAAAAAARxk/fP4tI5yCGKkhBdUO9OybNAUYVarfA4YogCLcBGAs/s320/DSCN0188.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><i>This was my favorite item. Look at the gorgeous faceting of that fork.</i></span><br />
<br />
He covers each project in a series of steps over the next several pages, using clear captioned photos. The writing is very easy to follow. The whole process has a wonderfully relaxed, organic feel to it.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jnpjLDXt_Cw/WtKtxqTF9yI/AAAAAAAARxo/Ae5i3DzHFzkcnhGp3kpCdNiFhujAwHbgwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0192.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1059" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jnpjLDXt_Cw/WtKtxqTF9yI/AAAAAAAARxo/Ae5i3DzHFzkcnhGp3kpCdNiFhujAwHbgwCLcBGAs/s320/DSCN0192.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">The layout is easy to read and follow.</span></i><br />
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />
Whether you use the item yourself, give it as a gift, or sell it, the user will always be reminded of the person who made it. That's the personal connection in such handcrafts.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
One thing I like about this is that you can use almost any wood. That means if there's a cherished old tree at a family house that you remember growing up, if some of it comes down, you can turn it into something that the family can continue to use for decades.<br />
<br />
It's also a completely portable style of woodworking that offers great satisfaction. A small canvas bag of tools can go with you anywhere, and you can leave behind works of art and function.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
If you sell your work, this is something you can do at fairs and craft shows. With your wares displayed for sale in front of you, you can be working on more the whole time. Then it's production and demonstration as well as commerce.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This also offers an opportunity to engage an audience and pass on the craft. You can let people try the tools after a quick lesson on safety and technique if you're comfortable doing that.<br />
<br />
This is a wonderful book that will give you hours of enjoyment.<br />
<br />
<i>Psst: Don't tell my wife, but I ordered the set of Mora knives, the Marbles camp axe, and the 14" Silky Bigboy 2000 with extra large teeth that I linked above. This looks like fun!</i></div>
Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-24581363007928429912018-04-08T22:05:00.002-04:002018-04-15T10:45:07.702-04:00Limor Fried Is My New Hero<iframe allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="231" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_pyt7-86x0c?rel=0" width="410"></iframe><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">Meet Limor Fried, founder of Adafruit.</span></i><br />
<br />
I'm cross-posting this to both my woodworking blog <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/">www.CloseGrain.com</a> and my software engineering blog <a href="http://flinkandblink.blogspot.com/">FlinkAndBlink.blogspot.com</a> (under the <a href="http://flinkandblink.blogspot.com/search/label/LearnToCode">LearnToCode</a> label), because even though there's no woodworking in it, this is all about building stuff, so it bridges the worlds. It's the maker ethos.<br />
<br />
If you're interested in <a href="http://flinkandblink.blogspot.com/search/label/LearnToCode">learning to code</a>, and building the stuff that you're coding on, this is for you. This is all about working on embedded systems, from the hobby level to the professional.<br />
<br />
I admit to instant and total nerd-crush. Limor Fried, who goes by the name Ladyada online (for <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ada_Lovelace">Lady Ada Lovelace</a>, The First Programmer) is the founder of <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/">Adafruit</a>.<br />
<br />
Adafruit is a small electronics manufacturing company in Manhattan, NY, that focuses on teaching electronics to makers of all ages. You can read about them <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/about">here</a>.<br />
<br />
Electronics is another of those hobbies that I wanted to pursue as a teenager, but never could due to lack of funds. Fortunately I've advanced beyond that impecunious stage of life, and seeing this has fired instant obsession (hence the shopping list below!).<br />
<br />
I'm familiar with that feeling of obsession settling on my shoulders. It propelled me into hand tool woodworking, turning into a <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2017/11/hand-tool-basics-book-available-for.html">book</a>. It propelled me into <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2015/10/greenish-luthiery.html">violinmaking</a>. It propelled me into <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2017/01/when-i-grow-up.html">boatbuilding</a>.<br />
<br />
Each time, the pattern is the same. I buy a bunch of books, watch a bunch of videos, dig through a bunch of blogs and forums, then buy a bunch of tools and start playing. Last year it propelled me into small engine repair and oxy-acetylene welding after I found <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2Cd9kKYXFakV7ChvU_rjKw">Taryl Dactyl</a> (yes, blog posts will be forthcoming).<br />
<br />
Now, in my copious free time (that's a joke, son), I'll finally be realizing that dream to get my hands dirty with electronics.<br />
<br />
I owe this to Matt Pandina, whom we recently hired at work. It quickly turned out that Matt is a maker and likes sharing information. He has some nice stuff on Google Groups under the moniker <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/artcfox/">artcfox</a> (in fact, one of his articles was coincidentally the answer to the embedded systems programming problem I use when interviewing candidates!).<br />
<br />
He made a comment about how Adafruit is doing manufacturing in Manhattan, and I asked, "Who's Adafruit?". That was all it took. Thanks, Matt!<br />
<br />
I was tickled to read Fried's favorite quote in the <a href="https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/12/18/adafruits-ladyada-limor-fried-named-entrepreneur-of-the-year-by-entrepreneur-magazine-entmagazine/">Entrepreneur Magazine</a> article about her:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<em style="background-color: #eeeeee; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "proxima nova", "lucida grande", "lucida sans unicode", "lucida sans", Geneva, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.28px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">“We are what we celebrate.”</em><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: "proxima nova" , "lucida grande" , "lucida sans unicode" , "lucida sans" , "geneva" , "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.28px;"> —entrepreneur and inventor Dean Kamen.</span></blockquote>
Kamen is one of my other heroes. She whose hero is my hero is my hero!<br />
<br />
I managed to score his autograph at the <a href="https://www.massmedic.com/2015/04/22/massmedics-19th-annual-conference-only-two-weeks-away/">2015 MassMEDIC conference</a>. I was at the <a href="http://my.presentations.techweb.com/events/esc/boston/2015/conference">2015 Embedded Systems Conference</a> (ESC Boston), which was being held concurrently at the Boston Convention Center.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nm-F6sGPkIc/Wsp6ZhJRShI/AAAAAAAARqc/5Ye0f-jFwZEA-uCrp5MuMKhAoCGE7GEVgCLcBGAs/s1600/Dean%2BKamen%2BMay%2B6%2B2015.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="995" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nm-F6sGPkIc/Wsp6ZhJRShI/AAAAAAAARqc/5Ye0f-jFwZEA-uCrp5MuMKhAoCGE7GEVgCLcBGAs/s640/Dean%2BKamen%2BMay%2B6%2B2015.jpg" width="396" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">When I saw Kamen listed as keynote speaker, I scooted down early and got a chance to talk to him and tell him I wanted to work for him (he probably gets a lot of stalker geeks like that!). Came close the following year, but logistics didn't work out.</span></i><br />
<br />
<b>Electronics Learning Resources</b><br />
<br />
On the business side, Adafruit <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/categories">sells kits, parts, tools, and books</a>. That's pretty cool (along with being able to pull off a manufacturing operation in Manhattan). But what's truly spectacular about them is their online learning resources.<br />
<br />
Fried is a big proponent of open source, sharing the knowledge. So the Adafruit website is <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/">chock full of information</a>. There's also an extensive <a href="https://www.youtube.com/adafruit">YouTube channel</a>.<br />
<br />
You'll also finds lots of cross-pollination with others in the maker community. There are magazines, blogs, and videos by the score, by independent makers like Matt, and by larger organizations.<br />
<br />
I've just barely begun to scratch the surface. This is great, because I know how to program embedded systems, but I don't know much about the components that go into them and connect to them. It's the combination of hardware and software that really makes something work.<br />
<br />
Pretty much everything I know about digital electronics I owe to <a href="https://amzn.to/2JwzBFQ">Forrest P. Mims</a> 35 years ago. Now, after that brief hiatus, I can take the next step.<br />
<br />
<b>Basic Electronics Lab Skills</b><br />
<br />
<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="231" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w0c3t0fJhXU?rel=0" width="410"></iframe><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">Step into Collin's lab!</span></i><br />
<br />
Among the resources is a series of very accessible quick guides and videos by <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/category/collins-lab">Collin Cunningham</a>. Of particular interest to the electronics beginner such as myself is this set of basic electronics lab skills (you can scan through all these for quick grok of the big picture by setting the speed in the YouTube window settings (the gear icon) to 2x, then come back and watch at normal speed for a second pass):<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/collins-lab-soldering">Soldering and Desoldering</a>: how to solder components together properly, and how to pull them apart for salvage and rework.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/QzoPxvIM2qE">Surface Mount Soldering</a>: how to solder surface-mount components.</li>
<li><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/collins-lab-multimeters">Multimeters</a>: how to use a meter for basic measurements.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/ThrK2spjrLs">Oscilloscopes</a>: how to use an oscilloscope for advanced measurements and waveforms.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/J-1phA_vKDg">Hand Tools</a>: the basic hand tools used for assembling and disassembling electronics.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/9cps7Q_IrX0">Schematics</a>: how to read schematics (no, they're not Greek!).</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/w0c3t0fJhXU">Breadboards and Perfboards</a>: how to combine the parts on a schematic into a functioning circuit.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/-mHLvtGjum4">Ohm's Law</a>: understanding the relationship between voltage, current, and resistance.</li>
</ul>
Once you have these skills, you are unleashed. Just like hand tool woodworking, it takes a little investment in tools and equipment, and a little time practicing with them.<br />
<br />
These form the basis of the shopping list below. And of course they lead to lots of other interesting videos, like Collin's videos on the basics of various components:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/8ftkn7nZSDo">Batteries</a>: the basics of using batteries to supply DC power to projects.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/RRW4pBCzXBA">Solar Cells</a>: using solar cells to keep the batteries charged.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/qPt0X5s-1JU">Power Supplies</a>: using an AC power supply to supply DC power to projects.</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/Lf7JJAAZxEU">Pulse Width Modulation</a>: using a PWM converter to change DC input voltage to lower effective DC voltage, or as a simple digital-to-analog converter (DAC).</li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/S2AHimvbovI">Switches</a>: understanding the different types of switches for manually controlling projects. </li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/-td7YT-Pums">The Transistor</a></li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/ZYH9dGl4gUE">The Capacitor</a></li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/AqzYsuTRVRc">The Diode</a></li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/STDlCdZnIsw">The Inductor</a></li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/VPVoY1QROMg">The Resistor</a></li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/P3PDLsJQcGI">The LED</a></li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/uSRIc-sEgPw">The Integrated Circuit (IC)</a></li>
<li><a href="https://youtu.be/pnf8ojsK6S4">The Arduino</a></li>
</ul>
There are also a number of other introductory Adafruit written guides by various contributors (as well as oceans of more specialized and advanced guides, <a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/">check them out</a>!):<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering">Adafruit Guide To Excellent Soldering</a></li>
<li><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/multimeters">Multimeters</a></li>
<li><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/wires-and-connections">Wires and Connections</a></li>
<li><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/all-about-batteries">All About Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/power-supplies">Power Supplies</a></li>
<li><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/all-about-leds">All About LEDs</a></li>
</ul>
<b>Shopping List</b><br />
<br />
These are the tools, equipment, supplies, and books to do the work. With the exception of the oscilloscope, these are all links to the Adafruit shopping pages. Prices as of April 8, 2018.<br />
<br />
Tools and equipment:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1204">Hakko FX-888D Digital Soldering Iron</a>, $109.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1286">Hakko Soldering Tip: T18-D24 Screwdriver</a>, $7.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1248">Hakko Soldering Tip: T18-C2 Hoof</a>, $7.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1249">Hakko Soldering Tip: T18-S4 Fine SMD</a>, $9.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2452">Panavise Multi-Purpose Work Center</a>, $99.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3019">Third Hand Pana Hand Workstation Add-On</a>, $54.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/291">Helping Third Hand Magnifier W/Magnifying Glass</a>, $6.00</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/152">Flush diagonal cutters</a>, $7.25</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/146">Simple pliers</a>, $3.00</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/527">Hakko Professsional Quality 20-30 AWG Wire Strippers</a>, $14.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3284">Adafruit Pocket Screwdriver</a>, $1.50</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/424">Precision screwdriver set (6 pieces)</a>, $7.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/452">Precision Torx Screwdriver Set (6 pieces)</a>, $6.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/829">65 Piece Ratchet Screwdriver and Tool Bit Set</a>, $29.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3445">iFixit Essential Electronics Toolkit</a>, $19.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1599">Super Scissors</a>, $14.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3720">Solar Digital Calipers</a>, $14.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/421">Fine tip straight tweezers - ESD safe</a>, $3.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/422">Fine tip curved tweezers - ESD safe</a>, $3.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1209">ESD-Safe PCB Cleaning Brush</a>, $2.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/148">Solder sucker</a>, $5.00</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1598">Professional IC Extraction Tool</a>, $14.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/239">Full sized breadboard</a>, $5.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/153">Breadboarding wire bundle</a>, $4.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1008">Small Alligator Clip Test Lead (set of 12)</a>, $3.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1328">2.1mm DC Barrel Jack to Alligator Clips</a>, $1.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1125">In-line power switch for 2.1mm barrel jack</a>, $2.50</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/276">5V 2A (2000mA) switching power supply</a>, $7.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/63">9 VDC 1000mA regulated switching power adapter</a>, $6.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/308">Extech EX330 12-function autoranging multimeter</a>, $59.95</li>
<li><a href="https://amzn.to/2Ew5MBM">Rigol DS1054Z Digital Oscilloscope - Bandwidth: 50 Mhz, Channels: 4</a>, $349.00 (this is an Amazon link, since the 4 channel scope is less than the Adafruit 2 channel Rigol. Sorry, Limor!)</li>
</ul>
<div>
Consumable supplies:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2670">Bakelite Universal Perfboard Plates - Pack of 10</a>, $4.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3174">Hook-up Wire Spool Set - 22AWG Solid Core - 10 x 25ft</a>, $27.50</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3175">Hook-up Wire Spool Set - 22AWG Stranded-Core - 10 x 25ft</a>, $27.50</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/145">Mini Solder spool - 60/40 lead rosin-core solder 0.031" diameter - 100g</a>, $7.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1886">Solder Wire - 60/40 Rosin Core - 0.5mm/0.02" diameter - 50 grams</a>, $5.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2473">Solder Wire - RoHS Lead Free - 0.5mm/.02" diameter - 50g</a>, $11.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1930">Solder Wire - SAC305 RoHS Lead Free - 0.5mm/.02" diameter - 50g</a>, $14.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2660">Chip Quik SMD Removal Kit</a>, $16.00</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2668">Chip Quik SMD Removal Kit with Lead-Free Alloy</a>, $17.00</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/149">Solder wick - 3S 5ft.</a>, $3.00</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/344">Heat Shrink Pack (24 pieces)</a>, $4.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1649">Multi-Colored Heat Shrink Pack (30 pieces)</a>, $4.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/373">Breadboard-friendly 2.1mm DC barrel jack</a>, $0.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2975">Adafruit Parts Pal</a>, $19.95</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
Books:</div>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/517">Getting Started in Electronics by Forrest M. Mims III</a>, $19.95 (remember him?)</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1261">Practical Electronics for Inventors, Fourth Edition, by Paul Scherz and Simon Monk</a>, $40.00</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/203">Make: Electronics (Charles Platt) - 2nd Edition</a>, $34.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1339">Hacking Electronics by Simon Monk</a>, $29.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3638">Learn Electronics with Arduino - by Jody Culkin and Eric Hagan</a>, $24.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3325">Python for Microcontrollers: Getting Started with MicroPython by Donald Norris</a>, $19.95</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1089">Programming the Raspberry Pi: Getting Started with Python - 2nd Edition by Simon Monk</a>, $15.00</li>
</ul>
Finally, here are some additional random useful items that they don't carry, all via Amazon:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://amzn.to/2EC4IMC">StarTech.com 24x27.5-Inch Desktop Anti-Static Mat</a>, $17.44. Anti-static mats are important for ESD safety, to avoid damaging sensitive components. Use this larger one as you primary work surface.</li>
<li><a href="https://amzn.to/2qnXfM5">Velleman AS4 Anti-Static Mat with Ground Cable - Desktop static dissipative mat - 11.8" x 22"</a>, $11.18. Smaller secondary mat for second work area.</li>
<li><a href="https://amzn.to/2JAWIiP">Rosewill ESD Anti-Static Wrist Strap Components</a>, $5.99, one per mat.</li>
<li><a href="https://amzn.to/2EAKMtJ">3M Scotch #35 Electrical Tape Value Pack (5 colors)</a>, $10.10, because how can you build electrical stuff without electrical tape, color coded?</li>
<li><a href="https://amzn.to/2IHG13Y">Scotch Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape (black)</a>, $3.98</li>
<li><a href="https://amzn.to/2EBSsvv">Sharpie Fine Point Asst Colors (8 colors)</a>, $6.30, for color coded marking.</li>
<li><a href="https://amzn.to/2HqzWt9">Permatex 80050 Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz</a>, $11.18. RTV is a universal technician's friend. Gobs of it serve as adhesive, sealers, hole plugs, gaskets, wire holders, vibration dampers, etc. There are a number of different formulations.</li>
</ul>
Total cost: $1269 for everything (I ordered 2 spools leaded solder and 1 leaded Chip Quik, no lead-free items, 10 DC barrel jacks, and all the screwdriver/tool sets, since you never know which tips and shanks will fit, and some cases need special access tools to open), with free shipping from both Adafruit and Amazon. Plus they threw in a free half-size breadboard and a Circuit Playground Express.<br />
<br />
Back in my teenage days, $10 was a major expenditure, and $100 was simply inconcievable. This is starting to add up to some real money, but it will leave you armed with the tools, knowledge, and skills sufficient to launch a career.<br />
<br />
The really nice thing is that Adafruit provides a curated list of things to choose from, so you're getting the benefit of their experience and recommendations, all guided by that maker ethos. That was a big plus for me.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H1cUJqbQBmk/WtCVTrZxJ3I/AAAAAAAARtk/7g1IStJfJfoWvRlGd0OO6F5SFnbs7-xWACLcBGAs/s1600/Electronics%2BWorkshop.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1146" data-original-width="1600" height="287" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H1cUJqbQBmk/WtCVTrZxJ3I/AAAAAAAARtk/7g1IStJfJfoWvRlGd0OO6F5SFnbs7-xWACLcBGAs/s400/Electronics%2BWorkshop.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">Bridging three centuries of maker technology.</span></i><br />
<br />
Once I've gone through some of the books, I'll pick out a selection of microcontrollers to play with.
<br />
<br />
You can read about my <a href="http://flinkandblink.blogspot.com/2018/04/first-use-of-new-tools.html">first use of these tools</a>, since I needed them almost immediately.Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-58525856215887637812018-03-03T13:48:00.001-05:002020-12-19T21:12:49.922-05:00Veterans Program Update<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TsiBqZ86ogs/WprpSY56dwI/AAAAAAAARjU/URy69Zxr_UY0TOvfR2GSmIBb0XE_f4lfACLcBGAs/s1600/HandToolWoodworkingForVeterans.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TsiBqZ86ogs/WprpSY56dwI/AAAAAAAARjU/URy69Zxr_UY0TOvfR2GSmIBb0XE_f4lfACLcBGAs/s320/HandToolWoodworkingForVeterans.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;"><i>The class covers the use of tools like these: handsaws, handplanes, and chisels.</i></span><br />
<br /><i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 13px;">Updated December 19, 2020: Thank you to the people who have participated in this and who have helped spread the word on it. The pandemic of course means that I can't offer this currently, but I had decided to stop before that, due to lack of interest.</i><div><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><i><br /></i></span></span><div>
I'm very pleased to announce that my free hand tool woodworking class for veterans and active duty personnel is now part of Ayer Shirley Regional School District Community Education, and will be conducted at the ASR High School in Ayer, MA.<br />
<br />
For details on registration, see the <a href="https://www.asrsdcommunityed.org/classes">ASRSD Community Education classes page</a> and page through to the Hobbies section. The class is <b>Woodworking For Veterans</b>, 7:30PM to 9:30PM for 12 Wednesdays from March 21 to June 13 (no class during April school vacation week). Space is limited to 4 people per 12-week session. All tools and materials provided.<br />
<br />
For details on the what and the why of the class, see my original description of the <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2014/06/jotmost-every-wednesday-is-veterans-day.html">JOTMOST program</a>.<br />
<br />
A big thank you to Dennis McGillicuddy, Vietnam veteran, for putting in the time and effort to find a public venue for the class. Thanks also to Pat Russell, Community Education coordinator, and Steve Tulli, technology teacher at ASR High School for making his room available.</div></div>Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-73158386865266883902017-12-23T16:42:00.000-05:002017-12-24T13:51:59.987-05:00Acknowledgements And References<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DjM5SYIe-l0/Wj_2GE8DDTI/AAAAAAAARDE/bk-gMKKU3-Yj29Kt_EGJj9Tdf-UIkQbOACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171218_201542578.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DjM5SYIe-l0/Wj_2GE8DDTI/AAAAAAAARDE/bk-gMKKU3-Yj29Kt_EGJj9Tdf-UIkQbOACEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_20171218_201542578.jpg" width="400" /><i><span style="color: #38761d;">The new woodworking books are here, the new woodworking books are here! 20 copies fresh from the publisher.</span></i></a></div>
<br />
I like to give credit where credit is due. These are the acknowledgements and references for the information in my book, <i><a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2017/11/hand-tool-basics-book-available-for.html">Hand Tool Basics</a></i>.<br />
<br />
I'm a self-taught woodworker. That really means I had many teachers, the many live demonstrators and authors of books, videos, and magazine, online forum, mailing list, and website articles who have provided useful information.<br />
<div class="p2">
</div>
<br />
<div class="p1">
Use the information I provide as a starting point. There's plenty more than what I cover; woodworking is a global activity with centuries of history, creating an infinite variety of techniques. I hope that I'll give you the skills and knowledge to be able to assess and incorporate any new information you find.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
In general, the tools and methods I show in the book follow American and English woodworking styles. Continental European and Asian styles share many of the same techniques, but there are some differences in the tools. Where information is available, I strive to show historically accurate methods. In general it's safe to assume everything I show has at least 100 years of history. Some things have 2 or 3 hundred. Dovetails date back to the ancient Egyptians.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
We are but the custodians of knowledge, passing it on to the next generation.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Acknowledgements</b></div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Below is the list of my teachers, in roughly chronological order. These are my primary references. They offer a range of perspectives that don't always agree with each other but still manage to get the job done, showing that it's worthwhile to look at the variety of techniques available.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
If you'd like further information on any of the topics I cover in the book, I highly recommend seeking out their work, or even better, a chance to spend time with them in classes or demos. It's always good to have an opportunity to watch someone closeup and drink in the details. Just one new detail about an otherwise familiar technique can make it worthwhile.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
My memberships in the <a href="http://www.sapfm.org/">Society of American Period Furniture Makers</a> (SAPFM) and the <a href="https://www.gnhw.org/">Guild of New Hampshire Woodworkers</a> (GNHW), as well as the <a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/">Lie-Nielsen</a> Open Houses and Hand Tool Events, have given me a number of opportunities to meet and watch some of them.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Don Weber: </b>Don's cover story in the April, 2004 issue of <a href="https://www.popularwoodworking.com/"><i>Popular Woodworkin</i>g</a> is what set me off down this path. He built a table from a log using nothing but hand tools. I was absolutely enthralled. It took me a few years of fumbling around to gain traction, until I started following…</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Christopher Schwarz: </b>As the editor of <i>Popular Woodworking</i>, it was Chris' articles on hand tools that put me on the road to success, in particular his articles on sharpening and planing. His books and videos form the core of my woodworking library. He went on to found <a href="https://lostartpress.com/">Lost Art Press</a>, where he continues to publish excellent books and videos on hand tool woodworking. He changed my woodworking forever, and gave me the knowledge to start appreciating other teachers, like…</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Roy Underhill:</b> When I first saw Roy's PBS show <i><a href="http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/home/">The Woodwright's Shop</a></i>, long before I knew anything about hand tools, I thought this guy was bouncing off the walls like a superball shot from a cannon. But once I started learning, I realized every episode was crammed with a breathtaking amount of pure gold. His books and DVDs are another core component of my library. While I'll never be the showman he is and be able to do a half-hour video in one take, I've taken a number of cues from his show in my instructional format.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Philip C. Lowe:</b> I've been following Phil's articles for as long as I have Chris Schwarz's. He's what I call a museum-class woodworker, because when museums need to restore or reproduce a finely detailed period furniture piece, he's at the top of the list. He ran the furniture-making program at Boston's <a href="https://www.nbss.edu/">North Bennet St. School</a> for 5 years before starting his own <a href="http://www.furnituremakingclasses.com/">Furniture Institute of Massachusetts</a>, and is the winner of the SAPFM 2005 Cartouche Award. I got to know him when he gave a series of live demonstrations to SAPFM members on building several magnificent furniture pieces.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Michael Dunbar:</b> Mike ran the Windsor Institute in New Hampshire, where he taught chairmaking. He's published a number of articles in <i>Popular Woodworking</i>. He takes a very no-nonsense attitude, as exemplified by his "Sensible Sharpening" method of sandpaper on flat substrate. His repeated frustration at having students show up to classes with basic tools they didn't know how to sharpen or use was what led me to start teaching. My goal was to provide that basic knowledge so people could get on with the more advanced topics of the specialized classes offered by others.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Charles H. Hayward:</b> One of Chris Schwarz's heroes, Hayward was editor and "one-man publishing phenomenon" of <i>The Woodworker</i> from 1936 to 1966. He wrote a number of practical books that are simply spectacular. Anything you can find by him, don't hesitate, just get it! In fact, Chris has since anthologized <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0990623084/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0990623084&linkId=e57ae50a5535ebf2aa23824a877be35d">several volumes</a> of his writings from <i>The Woodworker</i>.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Robert Wearing: </b>Wearing, another of Schwarz's heroes and an acquaintance of Hayward in Hayward's later years, wrote an excellent book that has been re-released by Lost Art Press. This was the source of the three classes of saw cuts terminology.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Bernard E. Jones:</b> Jones wrote two encyclopedic books in the 1910's-20's which have been reprinted several times, one of which is now available from Popular Woodworking.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Garrett Hack:</b> <a href="http://www.garretthack.com/">Garrett</a> is a professional woodworker and author in Vermont. I've always loved his designs. He's a master of unique stylistic details done with hand tools.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Jim Kingshott:</b> Kingshott was a British woodworker who put out several outstanding books and videos in the 1990's. He's like your favorite uncle. But of course, Bob's your uncle!</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Adam Cherubini:</b> Adam's "Arts And Mysteries" column in <i>Popular Woodworking</i> was a huge influence on my work. With his emphasis on 18th-century work, he showed me I could do everything by hand starting from the raw lumber, and taught me how to use wooden handplanes.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Patrick Leach:</b> Patrick is one of the Internet's premier antique tool sellers, with everything from $20 user planes to $10,000 collector's items. He's partly responsible for the unusually large number of chisels you see on my tool wall; his house is dangerously close to mine. But he's also the definitive reference for information on antique Stanley tools. His website <a href="http://www.supertool.com/">www.Supertool.com</a> is encyclopedic, covering the entire line from the late 1800's through the first half of the 20th century.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Pete Taran:</b> Like Patrick, Pete is another encyclopedic source of antique tool information, this time on saws at <a href="http://www.vintagesaw.com/">www.VintageSaw.com</a>.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Erik Von Sneidern:</b> And like Pete, Erik is another antique saw specialist, focusing exclusively on Disston saws at his Disstonian Institute, <a href="http://www.disstonioninstitute.com/">www.DisstonionInstitute.com</a>.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Aldren A. Watson: </b><a href="http://www.aldrenwatson.com/">Watson</a> was a professional woodworker, author, and illustrator in Vermont.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Lie-Nielsen Staff:</b> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/LieNielsenToolworks">YouTube videos</a> from founder Thomas Lie-Nielsen and demonstrators like Deneb Pulchalski, along with live demonstrations at their Hand Tool Events, cover a great deal about how to use and maintain their tools. I think this educational component is an important part of the company's success, completing the connection with their customers.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Alan Breed: </b>Al is another museum-class woodworker. He's the guy high-end auction houses call when they want a reproduction of an antique that's on the block for millions of dollars, so the sellers will have something to fill the empty spot. He runs the <a href="https://www.allanbreed.com/">The Breed School</a> in New Hampshire, and is the winner of the SAPFM 2012 Cartouche Award. For a number of years, he's been incredibly generous sharing his time and knowledge in a series of live demonstrations to the GNHW Period Furniture Group on building period pieces.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Paul Sellers: </b><a href="https://paulsellers.com/">Paul</a> is a British woodworker who put out an excellent book and DVD series. He used to run New Legacy School of Woodworking in Penrhyn Castle, North Wales, possibly one of the coolest school venues around. He's another very no-nonsense guy, attempting to demystify the craft and bring it to the masses without complicated methods.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Christian Becksvoort:</b> <a href="https://www.chbecksvoort.com/">Christian</a> is a professional woodworker and magazine author in Maine who specializes in hand tool work.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<b>Peter Galbert: </b><a href="https://www.petergalbert.com/">Peter</a> is a professional chair maker in Massachusetts. He's also an inventor, creating several very useful tools and versions of existing tools. He was the one who showed me how to get the most out of a wooden spokeshave, and watching his <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/PeterGalbert">YouTube videos</a> resulted in a huge improvement in my turning skills on the lathe.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p2">
<b>References</b><br />
<br />
Some of these may be difficult to find because they're out of print. But they may be available used or as reprints.<br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1"><u>Books (including a few useful references from authors not listed above)</u></span></div>
<div class="p1">
Bickford, Matthew Sheldon</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALH4RBK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00ALH4RBK&linkId=0bd571002eb45408a7eae2cccd12d987">Mouldings In Practice</a></i>, 2012</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Blackburn, Graham</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440333408/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1440333408&linkId=e22653018d2cabde49309671199045e7">Jigs & Fixtures For The Hand Tool Woodworker</a></i>, 2014</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Fine Woodworking</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561587486/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1561587486&linkId=20c48007181696130abf8f090b93a028">Working With Handplanes</a></i>, 2005</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Hampton, C.W., and Clifford, E.</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0918036003/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0918036003&linkId=cc585a77d6976c536d6a0cc0735e3636">Planecraft: Hand Planing By Modern Methods</a></i>, 1934</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Hayward, Charles H.</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0806981849/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0806981849&linkId=3ab716d1bf585f95a4890654c3338b63">Cabinet Making For Beginners</a></i>, 1948 (several editions)</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0237446138/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0237446138&linkId=c57fa64a5b9ed0c69d4b479b601f72a1">The Junior Woodworker</a></i>, 1952<i> </i>(don't let the title fool you, it's for any beginner!)</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0806988061/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0806988061&linkId=4e417f27993fd90537084077414f783b">Woodwork Joints, Revised Edition</a></i>, 1979</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Hoadley, R. Bruce</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561583588/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1561583588&linkId=75d22b0fec1f985865bc93a84325fbf1">Understanding Wood</a></i>, 2000</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Hock, Ron</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440329958/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1440329958&linkId=2d397091a0b81f20dee272bd64600b5f">The Perfect Edge: The Ultimate Guide To Sharpening For Woodworkers</a></i>, 2009</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Jones, Bernard E.</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0898150221/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0898150221&linkId=d52f04766ff203e3aa1123713a6a6334">The Complete Woodworker</a></i>, 1920?</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440338671/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1440338671&linkId=4557cd1bb701fbba404058c7b18fa291">The Practical Woodworker</a></i>, 1920? (reissued as a 4-volume set)</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Kingshott, Jim</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0946819424/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0946819424&linkId=26befdbeda92de3fc824237d5687885c">The Workshop</a></i>, 1993</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0946819483/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0946819483&linkId=97d88592d7888c1685e0e9fb5b4aa0f5">Sharpening: The Complete Guide</a></i>, 1994</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1558217770/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1558217770&linkId=d2bddfa8fccba6ef96ebe2b8fee11e42">A Woodworker's Guide To Joints</a></i>, 1998</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Krenov, James</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1933502096/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1933502096&linkId=af8703c3cfc000995ad2f643b9301b26">The Fine Art Of Cabinetmaking</a></i>, 1977</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Laughton, Ralph</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1861084153/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1861084153&linkId=21bb1e58e29952592491febf29bab578">Success With Joints</a></i>, 2005</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Popular Woodworking</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1558708154/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1558708154&linkId=0dabf35e0cebd6eb96f908442f6d3f7f">Hand Tool essentials</a></i>, 2007</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Rae, Andy</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1600592740/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1600592740&linkId=1a2e8ca2904c3a09593de5d51e4602ab">Choosing & Using Hand Tools</a></i>, 2002</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Schwarz, Christopher</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440343128/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1440343128&linkId=2aa53c556656ff77a876c0ee4ab9b1be">Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use</a></i>, 2007</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0578039265/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0578039265&linkId=f9965d6ec97610c2dd9c21d189471fc6">The Joiner And Cabinet Maker</a></i>, 2009 (with Joel Moskowitz, update of 1839 anonymous original)</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440349509/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1440349509&linkId=4c8541f9c2622a9cec7c75f0582606c4">Handplane Essentials</a></i>, 2009</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Sellers, Paul</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0956967302/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0956967302&linkId=6f04b028c537cb3f38b36a0d4a3bdef1">Working Wood</a></i>, 2011 (also available <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZDWB5Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B005ZDWB5Y&linkId=eed2b520e3c873fe7e4a28b64d0d4864">as a set</a> with 7 DVD's listed below)</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Underhill, Roy</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0807840823/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0807840823&linkId=2c58a62a03f247d0a5d5c6ac8c110815">The Woodwright's Shop: A Practical Guide to Traditional Woodcraft</a></i>, 1981</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0807840955/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0807840955&linkId=c62c01004d2d6765d40bcb267dc62ee9">The Woodwright's Companion: Exploring Traditional Woodcraft</a></i>, 1983</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081TOJWC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0081TOJWC&linkId=5769ebeaf10c3b3f2bcdd8082c277b98">The Woodwright's Work Book: Further Explorations in Traditional Woodcraft</a></i>, 1986</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0807843474/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0807843474&linkId=c38804c1aa9f49342480733151bde77d">The Woodwright's Eclectic Workshop</a></i>, 1991</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0807846120/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0807846120&linkId=f2342904610c47d0b2d943fe96263c06">The Woodwright's Apprentice: 20 Favorite Projects From The Woodwright's Shop</a></i>, 1996</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0807859141/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0807859141&linkId=ced4329fc591867ca34dfe8c02b896ca">The Woodwright's Guide: Working Wood with Wedge & Edge</a></i>, 2008</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Watson, Aldren A.</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0393322769/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0393322769&linkId=fc762b85b4f8cdba547c25b45b6875fe">Hand Tools: Their Ways And Workings</a></i>, 1982</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Wearing, Robert</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0578060442/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0578060442&linkId=3f5244de30d083466acf1cd71ca90fd9">The Essential Woodworker</a></i>, 2010</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Whelan, John M.</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1879335328/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1879335328&linkId=0ee1bad8369059f28e69a24f17813e0f">The Wooden Plane: Its History, Form, And Function</a></i>, 1993</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1"><u>Videos</u></span></div>
<div class="p1">
Kingshott, Jim</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565233506/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1565233506&linkId=895cc8ff4344c955edd13202eab0357a">Bench Planes</a></i>, 1996</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565233514/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1565233514&linkId=05ecaefaaa16f9cc3b845e6f59e96cfd">Special Planes</a></i>, 1996</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565233492/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1565233492&linkId=eaee5711994ac56bea49bc62046add99">Mortise & Tenon</a></i>, 1996</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565233522/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1565233522&linkId=ebc7441ef10c01c6c079362db8ce77d3">Dovetails</a></i>, 1996</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Schwarz, Christopher</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZUF6UW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00CZUF6UW&linkId=8d5c308e341e79baad815058df765b22">Coarse Medium & Fine</a></i>, 2005</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5RAFFY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00E5RAFFY&linkId=ebd3989208604bf3f6b22f4479ab423f">Building Furniture With Hand Planes</a></i>, 2007</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440302278/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1440302278&linkId=66b731a7e83338eb13aa9cf3ef8b0746">Handplane Basics: A Better Way To Use Bench Planes</a></i>, 2009</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Sellers, Paul (available <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZDWB5Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B005ZDWB5Y&linkId=36ce8e108f570d39427f87e3ec674838">as a set</a> with his book above)</div>
<div class="p1">
<i>Working Wood: Woodworking Essentials 1 and 2</i>, 2011</div>
<div class="p1">
<i>Working Wood: Master Sharpening</i>, 2011</div>
<div class="p1">
<i>Working Wood: Master European Workbenches</i>, 2011</div>
<div class="p1">
<i>Working Wood: Master Housing Dadoes</i>, 2011</div>
<div class="p1">
<i>Working Wood: Master Mortise & Tenons</i>, 2011</div>
<div class="p1">
<i>Working Wood: Master Dovetails</i>, 2011</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
Underhill, Roy</div>
<div class="p1">
<i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440328447/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=closegrain-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1440328447&linkId=54373ec2e537318874b1b9456eda423b">The Woodwright's Shop, Seasons 1-31</a></i> (and counting, starting in 1980)</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<span class="s1"><u>Online Forums</u></span></div>
<div class="p1">
These are an excellent way to join with like-minded people to learn and discuss hand tools, their use, and how to deal with problems. In fact, as my skills developed, it was seeing the questions posted on these from beginners struggling through the same learning curve I had climbed that motivated me to put together a video course and book.<br />
<br />
Some forums are extremely active. Participation is global, with people coming from all different cultural backgrounds.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
I found these to be a great asset in my learning. Just be prepared for a wide range of information, often conflicting! You'll have to learn to sort through it. That's where I came up with the concept for my "Fistfights And Fundamentals" segments.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
These are moderated forums to ensure that everyone stays on their good behavior, but discussions can get heated and feelings can get hurt. Read their policies and spend some time lurking (Internet-speak for reading without responding) before you join in. Don't take things personally, and don't make things personal. Be polite. Remember that different people have different experience, training, and opinions.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
There are others besides these, in English and many other languages, as well as Facebook groups such as <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/UnpluggedWoodworkers/">Unplugged Woodworkers</a>.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<a href="http://www.sawmillcreek.com/">www.SawmillCreek.com</a> (US) - Neanderthal Haven forum.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<a href="http://www.woodnet.com/">www.WoodNet.com</a> (US) - Woodworking Hand Tools forum.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<a href="http://www.lumberjocks.com/">www.LumberJocks.com</a> (US) - Hand Tools forum.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<a href="http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/">www.UKWorkshop.co.uk</a> (UK) - Hand Tools forum.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<a href="http://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/">www.WoodworkUK.co.uk</a> (UK) - Hand Tools forum.</div>
<div class="p2">
<br /></div>
<div class="p1">
<a href="http://www.woodworkforums.com/">www.WoodworkForums.com</a> (Australia) - Hand Tools - Unpowered forum.</div>
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<div class="p2">
<br />
<b>Thank You To The MBTA!</b><br />
<br />
Finally, I'd like to thank the <a href="https://www.mbta.com/">MBTA</a>. Other than the shop work and photography, I did nearly all the work for this book and the original video series while riding the Commuter Rail. Yes, I wrote a book on the train! I did all the video editing, photo selection, and writing on my Mac laptop an hour each way to and from work in Boston.<br />
<br />
Thank you to all the folks who took care of my commute and gave me a safe, warm place where I could focus on woodworking!</div>
Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-11535032961965138612017-11-28T07:07:00.001-05:002017-12-23T17:13:04.963-05:00Hand Tool Basics Book Available For Order<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pu7hHn9yjPA/WdD5xbz8DVI/AAAAAAAAQNo/XVUtKoyXUKQ69Oi2o60_HxIjC0S1fMguQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.17.15%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1407" data-original-width="1071" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pu7hHn9yjPA/WdD5xbz8DVI/AAAAAAAAQNo/XVUtKoyXUKQ69Oi2o60_HxIjC0S1fMguQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.17.15%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">Book cover, showing the plane till in my basement workshop.</span></i><br />
<br />
If you'd like a copy of my book, <i>Hand Tool Basics</i>, published by Popular Woodworking Books, it's now available online at <a href="https://www.shopwoodworking.com/woodworking-with-hand-tools-r2425">ShopWoodworking.com</a>.<br />
<br />
It's available in both hardcopy and e-book formats. It's a direct companion to my video series, <a href="https://www.shopwoodworking.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=branam">Intro to Hand Tools</a> (more information on the series, including the free <i>Part 1</i> and sample lesson, is at <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/12/intro-to-hand-tools-downloadable-videos.html">Intro To Hand Tools Downloadable Videos</a>).<br />
<br />
Whether you want to augment your power tool woodworking with some hand skills or you want to do everything with hand tools, whether you have a big shop or just a tiny space, this is for you.<br />
<br />
The images in the book are taken from the digital video I recorded for the series, and its organization and content match the series. The book is therefore a matching visual reference for hand tool woodworking, with some 1400 captioned photos.<br />
<br />
Why have a book version identical to the video series? Several reasons:<br />
<ul>
<li>Some people prefer learning from videos. Some people prefer learning from books.</li>
<li>It's nice to have both so you can sit back and watch the videos, then have the book with you on the workbench as you follow the steps for a procedure.</li>
<li>The dynamic images in the video allow you to watch the tools in motion, while the static images in the book freeze the action so you can take your time examining details. These complementary views help you get the whole picture.</li>
</ul>
You can see my acknowledgements and references <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2017/12/acknowledgements-and-references.html">here</a>. These are the people who gave me the knowledge.<br />
<br />
Here are the full <i>Contents</i> and <i>Index</i> pages so you can see what's covered. As always, I like to show multiple ways of doing things, so you can tackle any situation based on the tools you have available, your personal preferences, and your current skill level.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LzNuk0_52dc/WdD5XJrxUpI/AAAAAAAAQNk/wXWYpIx5O6cCJLx0IluIx4_4YZlg1HBpQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.17.38%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="1068" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LzNuk0_52dc/WdD5XJrxUpI/AAAAAAAAQNk/wXWYpIx5O6cCJLx0IluIx4_4YZlg1HBpQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.17.38%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qTeSxXGgv3I/WdD6JQXQmKI/AAAAAAAAQNs/xrMA4GYgehcBr6BV72ZjsXy-lA7TIHlIQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.18.00%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="1071" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qTeSxXGgv3I/WdD6JQXQmKI/AAAAAAAAQNs/xrMA4GYgehcBr6BV72ZjsXy-lA7TIHlIQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.18.00%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_U_Z1wLCPUE/WdD6J2DyyhI/AAAAAAAAQN8/ntVASCsA4QA8FLj3Sc8E09F0I4DggtxsQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.23.48%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1403" data-original-width="1066" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_U_Z1wLCPUE/WdD6J2DyyhI/AAAAAAAAQN8/ntVASCsA4QA8FLj3Sc8E09F0I4DggtxsQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.23.48%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Here are a few sample pages representative of the layout and level of detail in the book.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XAB8hjRpv5o/WdD6JWXZW4I/AAAAAAAAQN0/a_csurUikks9CDZ8H5WpyzCK610fnHtQwCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.19.39%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="1066" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XAB8hjRpv5o/WdD6JWXZW4I/AAAAAAAAQN0/a_csurUikks9CDZ8H5WpyzCK610fnHtQwCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.19.39%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">From Chapter 1: The Tools, showing a selection of the tools covered.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rpojffv9kRM/WdD6JYDRVQI/AAAAAAAAQNw/timZMxZ4BWw7vEAh3ACPHlYaIz4EJ8d0ACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.21.43%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1404" data-original-width="1065" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rpojffv9kRM/WdD6JYDRVQI/AAAAAAAAQNw/timZMxZ4BWw7vEAh3ACPHlYaIz4EJ8d0ACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.21.43%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">From Chapter 5: Mortise and Tenon Joinery, showing some of the fistfights and fundamentals.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mZ4ABBRDDM/WdD6J2hsXiI/AAAAAAAAQN4/o9FdYN0lfok9Zlwgzhr5Vr8NL-IXtRqJgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.22.53%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1403" data-original-width="1065" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mZ4ABBRDDM/WdD6J2hsXiI/AAAAAAAAQN4/o9FdYN0lfok9Zlwgzhr5Vr8NL-IXtRqJgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.22.53%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a>
<br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">From Chapter 6: Dovetail Joinery, showing some of the steps laying out and sawing a tails-first through-dovetail.</span></i><br />
<br />
Feel free to email me at sdbranam@gmail.com if you have any questions about anything in the book. One of the challenges is getting just the right explanation that conveys the information to all readers regardless of their experience and skill level, and sometimes that fails.<br />
<br />Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-24481734372703810352017-10-01T11:05:00.000-04:002017-10-01T19:12:21.419-04:00Announcing Publication Date<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pu7hHn9yjPA/WdD5xbz8DVI/AAAAAAAAQNo/XVUtKoyXUKQ69Oi2o60_HxIjC0S1fMguQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.17.15%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1407" data-original-width="1071" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pu7hHn9yjPA/WdD5xbz8DVI/AAAAAAAAQNo/XVUtKoyXUKQ69Oi2o60_HxIjC0S1fMguQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.17.15%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">Book cover, showing the plane till in my basement workshop.</span></i><br />
<br />
I'm very excited to announce the publication date for my book, <i>Hand Tool Basics</i>, from Popular Woodworking Books: January 12, 2018!<br />
<br />
It will be available for pre-order at <a href="https://www.shopwoodworking.com/">ShopwoodWorking.com</a> in mid-November. The price will be $34.99. As a bonus, I'll also be posting SketchUp images here of some of the jigs in the book.<br />
<br />
The book is a direct companion to my video series, <a href="https://www.shopwoodworking.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=branam">Intro to Hand Tools</a> (more information on the series, including the free <i>Part 1</i> and sample lesson, is at <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/12/intro-to-hand-tools-downloadable-videos.html">Intro To Hand Tools Downloadable Videos</a>).<br />
<br />
The images are taken from the digital video I recorded for the series. The organization and content of the book match the series. The book is therefore a visual reference, with some 1400 captioned photos.<br />
<br />
Why produce a book version identical to the video series? Several reasons:<br />
<ul>
<li>Some people prefer learning from videos. Some people prefer learning from books.</li>
<li>It's nice to have both so you can sit back and watch the videos, then have the book with you on the workbench as you follow the steps for a procedure.</li>
<li>The dynamic images in the video allow you to watch the tools in motion, while the static images in the book allow you to take your time examining details like how to hold a tool. </li>
</ul>
A big thank you to the editing and layout team at Popular Woodworking! They did an outstanding job with the written and photographic material I supplied.<br />
<br />
The images here are screen shots from the author review document, so the image quality is reduced from the final copy, but they show what to expect.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Here are the full <i>Contents</i> and <i>Index</i> pages so you can see what's covered. As always, I like to show multiple ways of doing things, so you can tackle any situation based on the tools you have available, your personal preferences, and your current skill level.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LzNuk0_52dc/WdD5XJrxUpI/AAAAAAAAQNk/wXWYpIx5O6cCJLx0IluIx4_4YZlg1HBpQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.17.38%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="1068" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LzNuk0_52dc/WdD5XJrxUpI/AAAAAAAAQNk/wXWYpIx5O6cCJLx0IluIx4_4YZlg1HBpQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.17.38%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qTeSxXGgv3I/WdD6JQXQmKI/AAAAAAAAQNs/xrMA4GYgehcBr6BV72ZjsXy-lA7TIHlIQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.18.00%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="1071" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qTeSxXGgv3I/WdD6JQXQmKI/AAAAAAAAQNs/xrMA4GYgehcBr6BV72ZjsXy-lA7TIHlIQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.18.00%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_U_Z1wLCPUE/WdD6J2DyyhI/AAAAAAAAQN8/ntVASCsA4QA8FLj3Sc8E09F0I4DggtxsQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.23.48%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1403" data-original-width="1066" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_U_Z1wLCPUE/WdD6J2DyyhI/AAAAAAAAQN8/ntVASCsA4QA8FLj3Sc8E09F0I4DggtxsQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.23.48%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
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Here are some sample pages representative of the layout and level of detail in the book.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XAB8hjRpv5o/WdD6JWXZW4I/AAAAAAAAQN0/a_csurUikks9CDZ8H5WpyzCK610fnHtQwCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.19.39%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="1066" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XAB8hjRpv5o/WdD6JWXZW4I/AAAAAAAAQN0/a_csurUikks9CDZ8H5WpyzCK610fnHtQwCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.19.39%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">From Chapter 1: The Tools, showing a selection of the tools covered.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rpojffv9kRM/WdD6JYDRVQI/AAAAAAAAQNw/timZMxZ4BWw7vEAh3ACPHlYaIz4EJ8d0ACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.21.43%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1404" data-original-width="1065" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rpojffv9kRM/WdD6JYDRVQI/AAAAAAAAQNw/timZMxZ4BWw7vEAh3ACPHlYaIz4EJ8d0ACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.21.43%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #38761d;">From Chapter 5: Mortise and Tenon Joinery, showing some of the fistfights and fundamentals.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mZ4ABBRDDM/WdD6J2hsXiI/AAAAAAAAQN4/o9FdYN0lfok9Zlwgzhr5Vr8NL-IXtRqJgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.22.53%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1403" data-original-width="1065" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mZ4ABBRDDM/WdD6J2hsXiI/AAAAAAAAQN4/o9FdYN0lfok9Zlwgzhr5Vr8NL-IXtRqJgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-09-19%2Bat%2B12.22.53%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #38761d;">From Chapter 6: Dovetail Joinery, showing some of the steps laying out and sawing a tails-first through-dovetail.</span></i><br />
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Once it's out, feel free to email me at sdbranam@gmail.com if you have any questions about anything you see. One of the challenges in a book is getting just the right explanation that conveys the information to all readers regardless of their experience and skill level, and sometimes that fails.<br />
<br />Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-68062966160703099652017-04-27T21:35:00.000-04:002017-04-29T10:36:43.429-04:00Taking The Next Step Toward Boatbuilding<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3uJtqnptSSQ/WQKJvrulTwI/AAAAAAAAM8w/3lSg_a7XT9o7w-E8uO9ndl4G3ttB_ZPVgCLcB/s1600/1%2BEBB%2BHouse%2BFront.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3uJtqnptSSQ/WQKJvrulTwI/AAAAAAAAM8w/3lSg_a7XT9o7w-E8uO9ndl4G3ttB_ZPVgCLcB/s400/1%2BEBB%2BHouse%2BFront.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The house in East Boothbay.</span></i><br />
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Life has been busy, busy, busy lately. Hence the lack of posts here.</div>
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<a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/01/big-news-book-and-another-video-course.html">My book</a> draft is now in the hands of the team at Popular Woodworking Books, with some 1400 captioned photos.</div>
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My shop time has been occupied teaching individual classes. That's produced good material for some upcoming technique blog posts.</div>
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I've started reading through my <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2017/01/when-i-grow-up.html">stack of boatbuilding books</a>. That'll take a while, but Greg Rossel's excellent <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0937822507/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0937822507&linkCode=as2&tag=stochasm-20&linkId=2f3f7a851b89034bcc5459047a1b35aa" target="_blank">Building Small Boats</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=stochasm-20&l=am2&o=1&a=0937822507" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> has been a great first step, detailing the sequence of operations.</div>
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<b>A Place To Build Boats</b></div>
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The next step in the journey is the other big thing occupying my time, a place to build boats. That place is in East Boothbay, Maine, where my mother-in-law has now bought a house. She'll live there in the warm months, then with us in the cold months. Meanwhile, we'll spend weekends and vacations there. Eventually, we'll retire there permanently.</div>
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The two main criteria for the house were that it be near water, and that it have a space for my woodworking, specifically large enough for small boatbuilding. We had previously owned a house near the Damariscotta River in Boothbay, Maine, so we were familiar with East Boothbay. That was our general search region. It's spectacularly beautiful, as you can see from <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=east+boothbay&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVqbD2scTTAhWE4yYKHXgiDWUQ_AUICCgD&biw=1174&bih=799">this image search</a>.</div>
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The house she bought meets the criteria wonderfully. Built in the mid-to-late 1800's, it sits directly across the street from the historic shipyard waterfront of East Boothbay, on the bend of the Damariscotta a couple miles upriver from open ocean.<br />
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They've been building ships and boats there since the 1700's. Two small yards are still active, <a href="http://hodgdonyachts.com/">Hodgdon Yachts</a>, America's oldest boat builder, building high-end sailing and motor yachts, and <a href="https://www.washburndoughty.com/">Washburn & Doughty</a>, building commercial tugs and fireboats. </div>
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Hodgdon Yachts is on the site of the former Goudy and Stevens yard, where Louis Sauzedde (<a href="http://www.tipsfromashipwright.com/">www.TipsFromAShipwright.com</a>) worked on the replica of the yacht <i>America</i> as a teenager in the late '60's.</div>
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In between those yards is a public boat ramp and a separate kayak ramp. There's another public boat onto Linekin Bay less than a mile away. <a href="http://www.oceanpointmarina.com/">Ocean Point Marina</a>, where we used to keep our old boat, is 50 yards upriver, on the other side of the mouth to the tidal millpond.<br />
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So near water, check. About 100 yards from house to ramp. The river is visible past the Washburn & Doughty buildings. Their launchings are always an event.</div>
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The workspace is behind the house, a small barn with loft and one-car garage. It's perfect. There's a big sliding door in the wall that opens to an ideal spot for a small boat construction frame, leaving plenty of space on the side for workbenches and general woodworking. The loft upstairs is perfect for, well, lofting! And sailmaking.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ooSEVfLKZPM/WQKKVzf61LI/AAAAAAAAM84/IGQEcCw0i1MFcsAzAWnDMNM_qjwfX2HswCLcB/s1600/House%2BBack%2BTrimmed.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ooSEVfLKZPM/WQKKVzf61LI/AAAAAAAAM84/IGQEcCw0i1MFcsAzAWnDMNM_qjwfX2HswCLcB/s400/House%2BBack%2BTrimmed.png" width="400" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Rear view of the house showing the barn.</span></i><br />
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At some point this will become Close Grain North, where I'll teach private classes in hand tool woodworking, violin-making, and boatbuilding. Of course, I have to learn how to do those latter two myself first. See one, do one, teach one.<br />
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There are many other small boatbuilders in the area, as well as riggers and sailmakers. The shop of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nathaniel_S._Wilson">Nathaniel Wilson</a>, master sailmaker, whose work graces the <i>USS Constitution</i>, among many other historic ships, is a couple houses upriver from the marina. That's only a quarter mile walk from the house.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PUWEezCX9lo/WQKMT6VrkDI/AAAAAAAAM9E/KngcuLp7XlgYF2SQKOA9OM6LBMg-hVvEACLcB/s1600/IMG_20170325_183108089%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PUWEezCX9lo/WQKMT6VrkDI/AAAAAAAAM9E/KngcuLp7XlgYF2SQKOA9OM6LBMg-hVvEACLcB/s640/IMG_20170325_183108089%2B%25281%2529.jpg" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">I picked up this great poster for Nathaniel Wilson at the Maine Boatbuilders Show in Portland in March.</span></i><br />
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The whole area is just steeped in it, with 300 years of history. I even met a lady who's a former instructor at the <a href="http://www.thewoodenboatschool.com/">WoodenBoat School</a> and staff editor at <a href="http://www.woodenboat.com/">WoodenBoat Magazine</a>. For an aspiring boatbuilder, you couldn't ask for anything more.</div>
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I continue to learn about other schools in the area. In Bristol, on the other side of the river, there's the <a href="http://www.carpentersboatshop.com/">Carpenter's Boat Shop</a>. Then just down the road from that there's the <a href="http://www.mainecoastcraft.com/">Maine Coast Craft School</a>.<br />
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The latter school is particularly interesting because founders Kenneth and Angela Kortemeier have taken over the torch from Drew and Louise Langsner's <a href="http://countryworkshops.org/">Country Workshops</a> in North Carolina now that they have retired. Kenneth was an intern at Country Workshops in the 90's (<a href="https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/">Peter Follansbee</a> is another Country Workshops alum).</div>
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<b>Boothbay Region Historical Society</b></div>
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When we first found the house, I was curious about the history of the barn. I was aware of the long history of boat and shipbuilding in the area, so I wondered if it might have been used as a workshop by someone building small workboats for the bigger ships.</div>
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I contacted the <a href="http://boothbayhistorical.org/">Boothbay Region Historical Society</a>, and over the course of a few emails, historian Barbara Rumsey very graciously gave me some information.<br />
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The real-estate listing said the house was from the 1880's, but based on tax records, she felt it could have been built in the late 1860's. She also felt the barn was probably a small livestock barn, since it was common at the time for families to have a few animals.</div>
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I visited the Society, where Barbara showed me how to go through their copies of the old tax collector's books. That was fascinating. The book for each year was a hand-written account of every resident and their taxable property, roughly alphabetical by last name.<br />
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People were taxed on their land, buildings, and various types of livestock. There was even a heading for musical instruments over $15 (a significant sum in the 1880's). Anyone who had an ox was very popular; they were like the guy with a truck you could hire to help haul stuff.</div>
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What she had found was that the house's street address appeared in the book for 1882, listed under the name Alvin Goudy and occupied by his mother. That gave me a starting point.<br />
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Working back through earlier records, I found Alvin Goudy's name first listed for that location in 1867. Working forward to see if taxes increased due to property improvements (for instance, adding the barn), there didn't appear to a major change. So it's possible the house and barn have been there since 1867.</div>
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What I wasn't able to determine was what Alvin did for a living. Presumably he was of the same Goudys as Goudy & Stevens shipyard. Lacking any other evidence, it seems likely the barn was indeed used for livestock.</div>
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After we closed on the house, I stopped by the Society again to say hi, and found Barbara talking to another gentleman. She said he was one of my neighbors in East Boothbay, Nat Wilson. I said, "The sailmaker!"<br />
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Indeed it was. I told him sailmaking was another thing I needed to learn, and I would love to visit his shop. He invited me to stop by any time. The mind boggles. What more could an aspiring boatbuilder ask?</div>
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<b>Hobie Tandem Island</b></div>
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Since building even a small boat is 100 to 200 hours of work, it'll be a year or two at hobbyist pace before I have something ready to put in the water. In the meantime, I'm happy to enjoy some rotomolded plastic fun.<br />
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So under the heading of YOLO, I bought a <a href="https://www.hobie.com/kayaks/mirage-tandem-island/">Hobie Tandem Island</a>, which is an amazing trimaran sit-on-top tandem sailing sea kayak. It has pedal-powered Mirage drives. The pedals power fins that move sideways, inspired by penguin fins; they're even reversible so you can backup as well as go forwards. You can paddle, pedal, or sail!</div>
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This thing is a marvel of mechanical engineering. The modular assemblies go together quickly and easily for use, and detach just as easily for breakdown. As a tandem, it's large, 18' long; as a trimaran, it's heavy, 240 lbs. fully rigged.<br />
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But those outriggers (called "amas") make it incredibly stable, able to handle any kind of conditions, even out to open ocean. That's perfect for the Maine coastal river estuaries. It has molded-in fishing rod holders, and Hobie says it's even suitable for bluewater trolling. I've never been a fisherman, but this I can get behind!</div>
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<b>How To Transport A Hobie Tandem Island, New In Box</b><br />
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We spent a small fortune on Thule pickup truck bed and roof racks to transport the boat from <a href="http://www.sebagosailing.com/">Sebago Sailing And Watercraft</a> in Raymond, ME. But with a boat that long, I wanted a good secure support to avoid damaging it or the truck. And now we have a very versatile hauling setup.<br />
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The boat was in two packages. The main hull was wrapped in a long bubblewrap bag. The amas and all other parts were in a cardboard box about 14' long. Both fit side by side on the racks. Captain Mike, a tall fellow (who also has a <a href="https://www.authentictimberframes.com/">timberframing business</a>), helped us load it up. His wife Maura had been my contact for buying it.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bMiezkXBET8/WQHSDxWKTyI/AAAAAAAAM8I/eg2xTAiqF3knTX8tt8S-4VHl93T6MKGIQCLcB/s1600/Truck%2BWith%2BBoat%2BLoaded.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bMiezkXBET8/WQHSDxWKTyI/AAAAAAAAM8I/eg2xTAiqF3knTX8tt8S-4VHl93T6MKGIQCLcB/s400/Truck%2BWith%2BBoat%2BLoaded.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The boat loaded on my wife's F150 pickup truck. Mounted to the bed is a Thule XSporter Pro rack. On the roof is a pair of Thule AeroBlade bars. I secured the packages to the racks with 25' lengths of half-inch climbing webbing fore and aft.</span></i><br />
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To unload the boat on our own, I used a retired climbing rope and a pair of carabiners to rig a 2-to-1 haul system from the upper door of the barn. My wife, Cat, belayed the rope to sway the front end of the box down off the rack while I stood on my toes and lifted off the other end. That allowed her to lower away easily. Then we repeated that with the main hull.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TxXbbmOzpVk/WQHS8YF-bHI/AAAAAAAAM8U/dTSqlEAZgfU3-vLwgmo8tZw4A38q3ticACLcB/s1600/Unloading%2BLeft.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TxXbbmOzpVk/WQHS8YF-bHI/AAAAAAAAM8U/dTSqlEAZgfU3-vLwgmo8tZw4A38q3ticACLcB/s640/Unloading%2BLeft.png" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Cat belays the box.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3iahuForD7A/WQHTBM1MQUI/AAAAAAAAM8Y/6j9PayFlGMgf-ljlQzg2zoxDq7bGI9NKQCLcB/s1600/Unloading%2BRight.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3iahuForD7A/WQHTBM1MQUI/AAAAAAAAM8Y/6j9PayFlGMgf-ljlQzg2zoxDq7bGI9NKQCLcB/s400/Unloading%2BRight.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Belaying the main hull.</span></i><br />
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I unpackaged everything and laid it out, then followed the instructions on assembly. It didn't take long. The boat is made to break down for transport with minimum fuss. I had also bought a heavy-duty two-wheel dolly that included a cradle for the amas.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BAxs3KJjTCM/WQHTGQYBiZI/AAAAAAAAM8c/a8ypagK4Boc3eg8QACOv11PWBE9NNVLAwCLcB/s1600/Tandem%2BIsland.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BAxs3KJjTCM/WQHTGQYBiZI/AAAAAAAAM8c/a8ypagK4Boc3eg8QACOv11PWBE9NNVLAwCLcB/s640/Tandem%2BIsland.png" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The boat fully assembled with sail unfurled. You've heard of sailing on the mooring? This is sailing on the driveway.</span></i><br />
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This boat also takes a spinnaker. That'll be next year after we've spent some time buzzing up and down the river and out the mouth.Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-78123246152850707612017-01-29T11:11:00.000-05:002017-01-29T18:18:29.843-05:00When I Grow Up<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i7VOosLmako/WI4EU1LnDqI/AAAAAAAAMis/WUd2ZdyMMgI-VjTWtlkhyqRNruNQR28FACPcB/s1600/IMG_20170129_095829548.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i7VOosLmako/WI4EU1LnDqI/AAAAAAAAMis/WUd2ZdyMMgI-VjTWtlkhyqRNruNQR28FACPcB/s400/IMG_20170129_095829548.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">My Harry Bryan plans arrived yesterday!</span></i><br />
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I've figured out what I want to be when I grow up. I want to be <a href="http://www.harrybryan.com/">Harry Bryan</a>. Harry is a boatbuilder in Letete, New Brunswick, Canada, just across the border from Maine on the Bay of Fundy. This is a breathtakingly beautiful area of wooded, rocky coastline, crystal clear water and enormous tides.<br />
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Harry lives off the grid, building wooden boats with a few alternatively-powered power tools and a bunch of hand tools. His philosophy is one of slowing down, going back to the land, making rather than buying, relying on yourself, your skills and ingenuity, and never stop learning.<br />
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He's extremely inventive, combining traditional boatbuilding methods with creative solutions. Anybody for a treadle-powered bandsaw?<br />
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It is an idyllic life, no doubt with its challenges, but he and his wife have succeeded, raising a family and enjoying time with their grandkids. The appeal and the draw of this life are powerful.<br />
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I first heard of Harry when my daughter participated in a project at her high school to <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2011/06/iacs-endersession-dory-skiff-daisy.html">build his dory skiff Daisy</a>. Now I find that there are a number of videos featuring him online (more about that below). Here are two that captured my imagination, <a href="https://youtu.be/RlhPZ4Qfj60">Slowing Down, The Schmee of a Successful Man</a>, and <a href="https://youtu.be/qD8UsUaghic">The Closest Thing to Magic – Of Boats and Boathouses</a>.<br />
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Harry is like Phil Lowe and Al Breed, what I call a shut-up-and-watch master of the craft. If you get a chance to spend time with them, you don't interrupt them, you just shut up and watch, absorbing the decades of knowledge and experience. Whatever they want to show you is well worth your time.<br />
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I've finally succumbed to the lure of boatbuilding. I learned to sail in 2000, and became intrigued with small wooden boats in 2005 when I found John Gardner's <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Building-Classic-Small-Craft-Instructions/dp/007142797X/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1485617852&sr=1-1&keywords=john+gardner+boats&linkCode=ll1&tag=closegrain-20&linkId=4e1a63201af75c4fb41579c46a7d19f7">Building Classic Small Craft: Complete Plans and Instructions for 47 Boats</a> at the bookstore in Boothbay Harbor, ME.<br />
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At the time we had recently bought a small vacation house close to the nearby Damariscotta River, where I kept a 23' O'Day sailboat that was built the year I graduated from high school (we had to sell the place in order to afford getting the kids through college, but we'll be back, count on it). I resisted the siren call to build my own for a long time, because I knew there was no going back.<br />
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Everybody who knows someone with a boat knows what boat crazy is. But wooden boats, and building them, is a special kind of insanity. Why mess about with all that rigamarole when you can throw a sleek gel-coated fiberglass modern creation in the water?<br />
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First of all, because, indeed, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.<br />
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Second, wood adds to that romance. The history of thousands of years is under you as you glide across the surface. Plus wood is such a wonderful material to work with, engaging all the senses. You become part of it.<br />
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Finally, there's the pure satisfaction of using something you've made yourself with the skill of your own hands. Even the simplest boats are complex shapes. Building them is much more an exercise in hand tool work than power tools.<br />
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Sure, there are dozens, if not hundreds of board feet of planking to get out and plane to thickness, and hundreds, if not thousands, of screws to drill and drive, so a benchtop planer and a power drill/driver are huge labor savers for very repetitive tasks.<br />
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But most of it is handcrafting lines that are curving continuously and fitting parts that meet at odd compound angles. Even driving screws is worth completing with a brace and driver bit to give you that delicate feedback to know when they're seated just right.<br />
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When you're done, you can enjoy the fruits of your labor in an intensely sensuous fashion. The Damariscotta River is a lovely small river that opens out to open ocean, with spectacularly gorgeous rocky, pine covered coastline. The tidal range in that area is a good 10'. That means it's actually a reversing river, flowing upriver on the rising tide, and downriver on the ebb. There's even a small reversing falls at the head of the river in the town of Damariscotta.<br />
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This also means the river has many personalities, from a glass-still surface at slack tide, to a fast race when the downriver flow joins the tidal flow, to the chop and wild wind of a late November storm. You feel the power of nature, held in check or unleashed.<br />
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Whether it's the mesmerizing burst and glide lazily pulling in a rowboat across the glassy river at slack tide, or the full heel of a sailboat close-hauled to the wind sluicing across the current, or a gentle drift from the head of the river down to the mouth after having sailed up beat on beat on the flood, you feel it with your whole body. You are joined with that power, harnessed to it in a vessel of your own making.<br />
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<b>Learning</b><br />
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First, of course, I need to learn how to build them. I've added significantly to my library with <a href="http://modern%20and%20classic%20books%20on%20wooden%20boatbuilding%2C%20rigging%2C%20and%20sailmaking%20from%20amazon/">modern and classic books on wooden boatbuilding, rigging, and sailmaking from Amazon</a>. You can also find supplies there, such as sailmaker's palms, needles, and thread.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AjWteeyIWnQ/WI4EU7_iCII/AAAAAAAAMis/9k3sQwx1Lz06oir6Yq5ZGT_Vh0odkElGQCPcB/s1600/IMG_20161229_062115356.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AjWteeyIWnQ/WI4EU7_iCII/AAAAAAAAMis/9k3sQwx1Lz06oir6Yq5ZGT_Vh0odkElGQCPcB/s400/IMG_20161229_062115356.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Additions to my library.</span></i><br />
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The Internet has also provided a vast treasure trove of articles, forums, and videos. I often watch videos at 1.5x or 2x speed. The YouTube player has a speed setting for this in Settings. The Vimeo player doesn't have a speed setting, but the unofficial <a href="https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/vimeo-repeat-speed/noonakfaafcdaagngpjehilgegefdima?hl=en">Vimeo repeat and speed extension</a> for Chrome works well, allowing any speed.<br />
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There are many more to be explored, but three video sites in particular have caught my attention.<br />
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<b>Off Center Harbor</b><br />
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First is <a href="http://offcenterharbor.com/">OffCenterHarbor.com</a>, an inexpensive membership site (it uses Vimeo for video when logged in, although some videos are also on YouTube). This is where I found the Harry Bryan videos.<br />
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This was the tipping point for me, what tempted me to approach the black hole until I got sucked in. For this I can blame Al Hansen, from the <a href="http://www.gnhw.com/">Guild Of New Hampshire Woodworkers</a> Boatbuilding subgroup. He recommended it at a Guild meeting where I was giving a demonstration on hand tool tag-teaming.<br />
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OCH is filled with videos, some how-to, some just to drool over. It's headquartered in Brooklin, ME, about halfway between Boothbay and Harry's shop in Canada. They have a number of videos of Harry at work, explaining some of his nefarious devices and showing the boats he's designed and built.<br />
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Based on these, I've ordered several plans from Harry, as well as for the Off Center Skiff. One of these will be my first build. Although there's also that Nutshell pram, that's cute. Auuuggghh!<br />
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<b>Traditional Maritime Skills</b><br />
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Second is <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFeBi4FWJIGLuohj3krNb4Q">Traditional Maritime Skills</a>, the YouTube channel of Marcus Lewis, from Cornwall, UK. He has a variety of videos showing building small sailing dinghies up to larger sailboats.<br />
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<b>Tips From A Shipwright</b><br />
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Third is <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClPa3pmqKwApysaYi7B7Nlg">Tips From A Shipwright</a>, the YouTube channel of Louis Sauzedde, from North Kingstown, RI. Louis is another shut-up-and-watch guy, a short, wiry ball of energy, the living embodiment of the saying "When ships were wood and men were iron."<br />
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In addition to a great series on a new build, he has lots of videos of restoration work. He doesn't hesitate to open up all the planking of a boat to fit in new frames, or unstitch the entire bow to replace the stem.<br />
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You can read a nice article about him in the <a href="http://digital.woodenboat.com/?shareKey=XIFFIF">sample digital issue</a> of <i>WoodenBoat Magazine</i>, entitled "A Modern Traditional Boatbuilder."<br />
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<b>Schools</b><br />
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In my online travels, I've come across a couple of schools. I'm sure there are many more.<br />
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<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.thewoodenboatschool.com/">The WoodenBoat School</a> is in Brooklin, ME.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.nwswb.edu/">The Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding</a> is in Port Hadlock, Washington. They have a very nice <a href="http://www.nwswb.edu/schoolvideo/">introductory video</a>. I like the philosophy of self-sufficiency and using boatbuilding as an approach to developing general hands-on skills, learning how to make anything.</li>
</ul>
<b>Suppliers</b><br />
<br />
I've also found several suppliers. As with schools, I'm sure there are many more.<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.woodenboat.com/">WoodenBoat</a> is the site dedicated to all things wooden boat. Browsing it is a sure sign of that slide into insanity. But what a glorious insanity it is! </li>
<li><a href="https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do">Jamestown Distributors</a> is a family-run business in Bristol, RI, and is the sponsor for Louis Sauzedde's videos. They have parts, tools, adhesives, and finishes.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.toplicht.de/en/">Toplicht</a> "Equipment for traditional ships and classic yachts, supplier for boat builders" in Hamburg, Germany. They appear to be a go-to supplier for all kinds of common and obscure fittings and supplies. They sell oakum!</li>
<li><a href="http://www.duckworksbbs.com/">Duckworks Boat Builder's Supply</a> is a small family-owned business in Port Townsend, WA. Their website includes an online magazine.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.sailmakerssupply.com/">Sailmaker's Supply</a> is a small business in Gautier, Mississippi.</li>
<li><a href="https://rwrope.com/marine-hardware/">R&W Rope’s Traditional Rigging & Outfitting Division</a> is a family-owned business in New Bedford, MA. In addition to rope and traditional fittings, they also have caulking and splicing tools.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.hamiltonmarine.com/">Hamilton Marine</a> is a regional boating supply chain along the Maine coast.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.westmarine.com/">West Marine</a> is a national boating supply chain.</li>
</ul>
Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-87319255485211056462016-12-08T21:27:00.000-05:002016-12-08T21:27:32.386-05:00Intro To Hand Tools Downloadable Videos<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fZIwb8aQOxA/WEoKOI8UxoI/AAAAAAAAMd0/_c_zJGwlGqEuuQM_210RLsqKVR8KJLrZQCLcB/s1600/Intro%2BHand%2BTools%2BTitle%2BScreen.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fZIwb8aQOxA/WEoKOI8UxoI/AAAAAAAAMd0/_c_zJGwlGqEuuQM_210RLsqKVR8KJLrZQCLcB/s400/Intro%2BHand%2BTools%2BTitle%2BScreen.png" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;"><i>7 parts. Nearly 60 segments. 12 hours of video.</i></span><br />
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I'm very pleased to announce that my 7-part course <a href="http://bit.ly/Intro_To_Hand_Tools_6part">Intro To Hand Tools</a> is now available in downloadable video form at <i>Popular Woodworking Magazine's</i> <a href="http://bit.ly/Intro_To_Hand_Tools_6part">ShopWoodworking.com</a>.<br />
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Each part consists of a series of segments, for a total of 12 hours of video instruction.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Z9_FGFJ1Ag/VyiH1-KcxQI/AAAAAAAALmE/VE2pa7UqtmQD-gWamQNW9biFUb9PpFjlwCPcB/s1600/Intro%2BHand%2BTools%2BCollage%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Z9_FGFJ1Ag/VyiH1-KcxQI/AAAAAAAALmE/VE2pa7UqtmQD-gWamQNW9biFUb9PpFjlwCPcB/s400/Intro%2BHand%2BTools%2BCollage%2B2.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Learn how to use these and other hand tools.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llMuxjEqihk&feature=youtu.be">Part 1: Welcome!</a> is available for free on their YouTube channel. It covers general introduction, a quick summary of the tools, safety, and details about the types of handsaws and handplanes.<br />
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The remaining 6 parts are available for purchase at $4.99 each:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.shopwoodworking.com/intro-to-hand-tools-sharpening">Part 2: Sharpening</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.shopwoodworking.com/intro-to-hand-tools-stock-preparation">Part 3: Stock Preparation</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.shopwoodworking.com/intro-to-hand-tools-simple-joinery">Part 4: Simple Joinery</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.shopwoodworking.com/intro-to-hand-tools-mortise-and-tenon-joinery">Part 5: Mortise And Tenon Joinery</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.shopwoodworking.com/intro-to-hand-tools-dovetail-joinery">Part 6: Dovetail Joinery</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.shopwoodworking.com/intro-to-hand-tools-boring-holes-and-creating-curves">Part 7: Boring Holes And Creating Curves</a></li>
</ul>
For a detailed guide to the segments in each part, see <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2015/07/59-videos-intro-to-hand-tools.html">this blog post</a>. There are nearly 60 segments in all.<br />
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This brief video shows what's covered in the course:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="231" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lpXv6dF5Zwc?rel=0" width="410"></iframe><br />
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This is Part 1:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="231" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/llMuxjEqihk?rel=0" width="410"></iframe><br />
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This 7-minute video is a free sample lesson on rabbetting, showing just a few of the methods covered in the longer lesson in Part 4:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="231" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/py85sCo8nrI?rel=0" width="410"></iframe><br />
<br />Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-40575692856323958262016-10-22T11:38:00.000-04:002016-10-22T19:04:08.396-04:00LN Event 2016 Shackleton Thomas And Terry Moore Scraper Sharpening<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J9zMES--YKw/WAtaZGdKTNI/AAAAAAAAMZs/tpXy4OkgfR8LX19yNml5NpV0pjFcS586wCLcB/s1600/IMG_7300.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J9zMES--YKw/WAtaZGdKTNI/AAAAAAAAMZs/tpXy4OkgfR8LX19yNml5NpV0pjFcS586wCLcB/s400/IMG_7300.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The Queechee Gorge near Woodstock, VT, on the drive home, beautiful even on a gray day.</span></i><br />
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Friday and Saturday, October 7 and 8, I demonstrated hand tool techniques at the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event at <a href="https://www.shackletonthomas.com/">Shackleton Thomas</a>, in Bridgewater, VT, run by Charles Shackleton, furniture maker, and his wife Miranda Thomas, potter.<br />
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Also at the event were <a href="http://msbickford.com/">Matt Bickford</a> with his wonderful wooden molding planes, book, and DVD, and Isaac Smith of <a href="http://www.blackburntools.com/">Blackburn Tools</a>, selling saws.<br />
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I was promoting my <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/08/fall-2016-session-intro-to-hand-tools.html">Intro To Hand Tools</a> online course at Popular Woodworking University. See <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2015/07/59-videos-intro-to-hand-tools.html">this blog post</a> for a full episode guide, tool list, and sample videos.<br />
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And newly available, the course parts can now be purchased individually as <a href="http://www.shopwoodworking.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=branam">digital downloads</a> from Popular Woodworking's online store, along with my recorded webinars and digital magazine issues containing my articles.<br />
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I also had my copy of Nick Offerman's new book <i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Good-Clean-Fun-Misadventures-Offerman-ebook/dp/B01ESI3Q8W/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476049211&sr=1-1&keywords=nick+offerman&linkCode=ll1&tag=closegrain-20&linkId=67a13e8d11f6ddd965fb757a302adaa6">Good Clean Fun: Misadventures in Sawdust at Offerman Woodshop</a>, </i>which is now available. You can read my review of it <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/10/review-nick-offermans-good-clean-fun.html">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z0Si1UPAr4w/WAtbt4c2k3I/AAAAAAAAMZ8/cOhmjyYvtjMRKPDptwtUzZkAmpIqa0jcQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7296.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z0Si1UPAr4w/WAtbt4c2k3I/AAAAAAAAMZ8/cOhmjyYvtjMRKPDptwtUzZkAmpIqa0jcQCLcB/s400/IMG_7296.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">My setup, with workbenches, boxes of tools, Nick Offerman's book, and large-screen monitor in the background running my trailer.</span></i><br />
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I did my usual ad hoc demonstrations as people asked questions and I offered to let them try anything they saw on the workbench.<br />
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Two things proved especially popular: Terry Moore's scraper sharpening method, and Yoav Liberman's <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/make-convex-sharpening-forms-for-round-edge-tools">gouge sharpening method</a> (where I add a concave surface to the block, and use it with my in-cannel scribing gouge). Both of these tools present particular sharpening challenges, so people are eager to see effective methods.<br />
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I must have sharpened my scraper 15 times over the two days. Since I had only brought white pine, Lindley Brainard, the shop manager and one of the Shackleton Thomas <a href="https://www.shackletonthomas.com/page/252/furniture_makers/">furniture makers</a>, let me pick a few nice pieces of hardwood from the basement scrap pile so I could demonstrate real scraping.<br />
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The results were glorious. I produced a cloud of white, brown, and reddish shavings in maple, walnut, and cherry as people watched and tried it for themselves. I really should have gotten a photo. You could have stuffed a nice comfy throw pillow with the pile of feathery shavings.<br />
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I've included Terry's method below, because I've gone through at least 5 other methods before I settled on this one, and it's worth sharing.<br />
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<b>Pizza With The Shackletons</b><br />
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As I mentioned in my post about <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2015/11/ln-hand-tool-event-shackleton-thomas.html">last year's event</a>, Charles is the cousin of Ernest Shackleton, who accomplished one of the greatest feats of leadership and survival of the past hundred years. If you're not familiar with the story of the <i>Endurance</i>, take some time to read <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_Trans-Antarctic_Expedition">this</a>.<br />
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Friday afternoon, Charles came through and invited us all to pizza at his house. My wife and I joined the caravan following Lindley's car up the narrow winding roads in the hills above Bridgewater to an absolutely spectacular spot. The entire valley lay before us in magnificent Fall color as the last rays of the sun dropped below a cloudless horizon, a fire crackling in the firepit in the yard.<br />
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I expected this to be a delivery from one of the local pizza parlors. But no! Nothing so mundane. Miranda had made up dough and toppings, and we each made up a pie. Then, Charles shoved them into the stone oven built into the giant fireplace in the living room of their antique Colonial house. Because, of course, <i>that's</i> how you have pizza!<br />
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Along with the LN crew and some of the Shackleton Thomas employees and spouses, Charles' brother Arthur and his wife, artist <a href="http://shackletonthomas.tumblr.com/post/117791908604/artist-series-carol-booth">Carol Booth</a> were visiting from Ireland.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aoXmD0iSWQc/WAtaZcJFFAI/AAAAAAAAMZw/2iQpLglzbIEGjh_9BPKhSzZ7fsmIrS1GQCLcB/s1600/IMG_20161007_194034610.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aoXmD0iSWQc/WAtaZcJFFAI/AAAAAAAAMZw/2iQpLglzbIEGjh_9BPKhSzZ7fsmIrS1GQCLcB/s400/IMG_20161007_194034610.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Charles Shackleton baking a pizza. The fire was actually orange, not purple!</span></i><br />
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It was a magical evening, the kind that lives in your memory forever. There we were, enjoying pizza fresh from the hearth in a home with a deep connection to history, with a group of happy woodworkers. I probably had too much wine as I basked in the warmth and companionship of new and old friends.<br />
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<b>Our Accommodations</b><br />
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My wife and I spent Friday and Saturday nights at the lovely <a href="http://deerbrookinn.com/">Deer Brook Inn</a> just down the road in Woodstock. Innkeepers Phil Jenkins, Win Coffin, and Reba Burress provided excellent food and service.<br />
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Phil bought the inn this past Spring after having previously owned the beautiful 1842 Inn in Macon, GA. You can read a nice article about the new ownership <a href="http://www.businessvermont.com/inns-new-owners-make-big-changes/">here</a>.<br />
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<b>Terry Moore's Scraper Sharpening Method</b><br />
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This is actually an article I did for the <a href="https://gnhw.org/">Guild Of New Hampshire Woodworkers'</a> quarterly <i>Journal</i>. I've made one addition to the original text regarding burnishing, as noted below. This is the exact procedure that I showed people, and it worked every time, with great repeatability.<br />
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 01.jpg" height="269" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C4C4orl5xLX--HIIkE2ouJzVtm6Gz8dTdX6Cbhy6WYSPNIKWB0SaCR-m2Qc8KpOIY2vkA5c6qe8Q4726WtiPeU6VJ1IYSHdMsV62545cuOjImiDBLfR1znFgr8WlPmRLRpI8s-jB" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="382" /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 1: Using a freshly sharpened card scraper to thin down walnut strips to 1mm for practice bending violin sides.</span></i></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I've recently taken an interest in making violins by hand, and after having watched a number of videos and read several books, I was very happy to see a meeting of the Granite State Luthiers at BJ Tanner's workshop in Manchester.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The topic of the day was sharpening. Several attendees demonstrated their setups for sharpening chisels and plane irons. I showed freehand sharpening a chisel on oilstones with my portable sharpening station. Terry Moore demonstrated sharpening a card scraper. This was the one that stood out for me.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Terry is a founding member of both the Guild and the New Hampshire Furniture Masters, with decades of experience. This is why I love being a member of the Guild. Amateurs and hobbyists like myself get to mix with and learn from masters of the art, who are happy to share their knowledge. Terry graciously gave me permission to write up his method.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sharpening is challenging enough for beginners, but scrapers are downright voodoo mystery. I collect scraper sharpening methods like I collect planes and chisels, always eager to acquire another one. I've settled on one that produces good results.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">But when I tried Terry's method in my own shop, I found it far superior. The proof was in the gorgeous fluffy shavings I was able to produce on a variety of hard and soft woods.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">The method I've been using isn't all that much different from his (and in fact all the methods are pretty similar), but he's distilled it down to bare essentials that quickly produce superior results. Simple, fast, effective, and repeatable. That's an almost magical combination.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Scrapers are valuable tools for furniture and cabinet makers, but they're absolutely essential for luthiers. In addition to flat surfaces, stringed instruments have a variety of simple and compound curves that must be rendered smooth and fair. Scrapers are the final tools used to produce these graceful satin surfaces.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Instruments also require very thin materials. Violin sides need to be 1 mm thick. Planing stock this thin can be difficult. It's very easy to damage the piece.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Scrapers can be used to thin down the stock after it has been resawn and planed flat at some more manageable thickness. In addition to being able to take very fine, delicate shavings, scrapers can take them at very controlled points. This allows you great precision in fine tuning the thickness.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Even a simple scraper, just a rectangle of metal, has an anatomy. It has two long edges and two short edges. Because it has some thickness, each long edge will actually be sharpened to two working edges, one on each side of the scraper, front and back. So you up end with four sharp working edges. A working edge is called a hook, because you draw the metal out to a tiny hooked cutting edge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Terry's method, like most others, consists of three stages: filing, honing, and burnishing. The trick is in the details. He's a believer in keeping it simple, not turning it into a religion. A quick sharpening and then back to work on the wood.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">You can adapt this slightly to the tools you have. Like Terry, I’m honing with a fine India stone (oilstone), but this should work with any kind of stone.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">One step common in most other methods that he doesn’t do is lay the scraper down and burnish the old hook flat. He simply files down past it in the filing stage, which all the other methods do anyway.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 02.jpg" height="282" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/LAWNRk7rz4O9jm1efgKg9K5Cyl9hfXs3JXczmjljTy5YZuUY1-9Jm54qpfxvrAAy_wtnCvZNjLSbzZXNhM90d1-Byj4IsiRilURf-6lSzkQyilCesPiSQPPjXLQkzeCsLFYVRncu" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="384" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 2: The tools: scraper, wooden holder, chunk of fine India stone, mill bastard file, and burnisher (with or without handle).</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first key point is to mount the scraper in a vise. Terry demonstrated on a metalworking vise. I use a face vise with a simple wooden holder as a clamping aid. It's just a length of wood a little longer than the scraper, roughly square in cross-section, with a slot sawn down most of the length. Slip the scraper into the slot, then clamp the holder in the vise. It concentrates the clamping force to keep the scraper from slipping in the vise.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 03.jpg" height="264" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ducEGlRo_ULFCcojvG0DzAz_zgDtUI_IykigA2fLdKIlh2ArL9ZbYGcB4W_IRsQhY7-gdlO6sV3q7RhchL4FRQ9-cUp1zbanCRlfxtTgeU75PMeQHk9NHZnLAFtT6Sa_1v2XlxTO" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="380" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 3: Slip the scraper into the holder and clamp the holder in the vise.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">I have a T marked on the holder to show the top front orientation. The T mark helps you keep track of which of the four hook edges you've worked on, although Terry's simple procedure makes it pretty easy to keep track.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Filing</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Using a mill bastard file, file the top edge of the scraper to remove the old prepared edge. Terry used a draw-filing motion. Filing should take 10-20 seconds.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hold the file oriented across the top at an angle to the length of the scraper. By aligning the file teeth visible on the top side with the edge of the scraper, you know that the cutting teeth on the bottom side are properly aligned across the edge to cut the metal.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">The key point is to hold it dead level, so that you file the edge flat, square to the sides. Run the file sideways down the length of scraper with moderate pressure. You should feel it start to bite and remove metal. Take enough passes to be sure you’ve removed the old hook edge, 5-10 strokes.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 04.jpg" height="278" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/iB6XdBPpWP3Q9UlPMI-gcMO8SxAZic6A1azqS148L1jR5uXCeA3b-TO98Qj1JKsjli-aNmMkdxJO1BXP3aK9Jrn_DZaGnpjiuHg9MoKr4IF0ug0UHrGrWJkFyAs29JBOsP3vypnZ" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="383" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 4: With the file level across the top edge, push it sideways along the length of the scraper.</span></span></div>
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<img alt="Fig 05.jpg" height="279" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r7qcwtGZIHNhDI-5VD4nw1kaJlY38yziWYG1TY_n_zNntiNnEGyl4qlr1vYhICVu6DtJMTPshaogIgJS0KHPer84g3b4SpRFH3iy8lmYYhBozj1R15yBBdKU1SgbvPlwqBogeWl6" style="border: none; font-family: arial; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; transform: rotate(0rad); white-space: pre-wrap;" width="382" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 5: The file needs to be dead level so that it files the edge square to the sides.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Every 5 or 6 filings, joint the scraper to maintain the straight edge. Hold the file level and oriented lengthwise along the scraper. Run the file down the length of the scraper for several strokes.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 06.jpg" height="291" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ecS-gc97-MsEmEOp7_nhUrkCfAHUIq5ZTxDIfdIBMSW3Fe5YAgiYISyzyx3D3sPVGW6ktMC5X11VfJdX-mBbGkt9E4Tw8V8Jw7TJHlPZvJ9KA3gMLnIbeVNfAL2gdgm4keGCjUH6" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="382" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 6: Holding the file level, lengthwise along the scraper, joint the edge flat.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Honing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Using a fine oilstone with a little oil on it, hone the top and sides of the scraper. Honing should take 20-30 seconds total for the top and both sides.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lay the stone across the filed edge oriented roughly diagonal to the length of the scraper. Again, the key point is to hold it dead level. Run it down the length of the scraper for several passes, 5-10 strokes, shifting it around to spread the wear across the surface of the stone. The goal is to remove the file marks, leaving polished metal.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 07.jpg" height="281" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/dJSYZHHgYd6x3XMiArZafx-SiwWgEdxTc3OgDDo9axH4HpXwYE-ZFVQRIUBhqyxCCETLQ3tHT9eiOZGb_bqgpFVGAwp5Q8EuJrxKsD1RB1eDoV6t0ReUFDHH5WZUq6POLo1nlDvt" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="382" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 7: Holding the fine stone level, run it up and down the filed edge several times.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now hone the front side. Lay the stone flat across the front face of the scraper and move it back and forth along the length for a few passes, 5-10 strokes. Repeat on the back side.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 08.jpg" height="273" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uUlnn5Y9hx_MngGO1_01CBZOgF5IZPhaR7oeGrfj0p0KA1XakmSvEcV4VHkzedSW2yXONpi5UTjKVnPBdoaBYAlAHafnXPEMWT7O0paqXXUkOGBm57Boy4HP2p51yLGwJgcdxQvh" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="383" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 8: Lay the stone along the front side of the scraper and run it back and forth across the length.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 09.jpg" height="281" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/GYSrFCw46Y-izb2qfs97WqtO0Xsnrc2qWTfm1OgN7kfDTClG5Xc29cCHFUKlsKpvTi5VUzNlE0xeC_sanEEfE3lhYCOQW0fjLjnTOxn6M7tCE78X6jJRwnryO1UOcepQFGQgHZES" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="381" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 9: Hone the back side.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">The result is that the thin top edge of the scraper and the front and back faces meet at square, sharp corners down the length of the scraper. These will be the cutting edges.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Burnishing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">This last step is where things tend to go wrong. People are usually able to file and hone the edge straight and square without any problems, but burnishing is the voodoo part.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Burnishing turns the hook on each long corner of the scraper edge, drawing out the metal to its working edge. The problem is that people tend to overdo it.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">As Terry points out, most people have a long burnisher with a handle. That means they’re able to apply a lot of force and leverage as they run the burnisher down the edge. But this just ends up over-turning it. Then they compound the problem by making multiple passes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">This is the secret to Terry's method. He has a short, stubby burnisher that he prefers to use, but with a long burnisher he showed how to choke up on the end, mimicking the stubby shape. The key point is that you use just the end of the burnisher with moderate direct pressure, not heavy leverage. Burnishing should take less than 5 seconds total for both sides.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 10.jpg" height="290" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oFG5RsdizKacQ6EqSmls8zzFsGvfGnEuHHNTFs-TtRkyQrdUCvyDfg81US4ugtgnr3qsuaoCIKaHZvtvRsOp1DkAFQyunEUYfFDu8l5Z_KECs1ItwMSUIhvOjwsms6OQPElJVRyJ" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="383" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 10: Hold the burnisher in your hand...</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 11.jpg" height="284" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/2KfvPInQ9HC-giJg6lAVbqQVxW-tJRyOJur94b5Tm2Y71k7-g-vyY2-eVVxc066A4YQSUHDEyuvsioWfp_a52Oitpm3xHDEpW_dp_JCj3dwLsvI3eJMmzofk5nn15OTfE3MBBvqy" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="383" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 11: ...and choke up on it, leaving only the end exposed.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">With the burnisher in your hand, hold it near the end to leave just about an inch exposed. Take the tip in your other hand and set the small exposed portion of the burnisher on the edge of the scraper at the near end. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 20.24px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>This paragraph is the addition to the original article, adding the step of burnishing flat across:</b> Holding the burnisher level, flat across the edge, push it </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 20.24px; white-space: pre-wrap;">along the length of the scraper for one quick stroke. Zip! <i>Don't use too much pressure!</i> Just light hand and finger pressure. Set the burnisher flat on the far end, and pull it along the length of the scraper for another quick stroke. Zip! That's it, zip, zip, just two equal, flat strokes in opposite directions to slightly mushroom the edge out to each side. The residual oil from the stone provides lubrication for the burnisher. Then do the same thing, but with the burnisher tipped over each face of the scraper.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tip the burnisher down over the face of the scraper by about 5 to 10 degrees; you may need to experiment a bit to find what angle works best for you.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 12.jpg" height="295" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/nJjPY-Yw1KcMU1l72gl38NDJJl9PFK5icNp1dsF9IX_gE_Hh2VJEuy37r81cExBnE6ISIk7NQIoehH1OyCXLw39XXnsc5wZarMV95yDCLjVO4LpYhL7-4dyeUD_4aFX6HC7cCIBh" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="382" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 12: Hold the tip in your other hand and set it on the edge of the scraper.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 13.jpg" height="277" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/x2fUH5Kf45RvNgjuTj8KdS0S7g0KC4TS77eauEnM1g31rx4aHumH-eaypr7hR8g8GHve5olLT9TPF9uJNPiJVsqQFCbncclDJeOpwZ23ONpF_3g17bQ_DEIkHtakWEX8UE0IgRAT" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="381" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 13: Tip the end down somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Push the burnisher along the length of the scraper for one quick stroke. Zip! Set the burnisher on the far end the same way, and pull it along the length of the scraper for another quick stroke. Zip! That's it, zip, zip, just two equal strokes in opposite directions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">If you curl your fingers into hooks and pull them up the face of the scraper, your fingernails should catch on the tiny hook edge you've just turned. Don't run your fingers along this edge, it's extremely sharp!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 14.jpg" height="296" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/1YFTDDDQRi1uZ6Ag5Vdtoh42JFdScV8fiQXwjSnuUos5dwvVBqyVv0bG2Gz-AvlHfKN-peg-Nv23eAMNvhuKTwMdZfN7EW0I9yOG7KYICN3eNNF70KYlLTICQZbxZe6ug94nLrY_" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="383" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 14: Hook your finger and pull it along the face of the scraper toward the edge. Your fingernail should catch on the hook.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now burnish the second edge, on the back face. You can leave the scraper as is or spin it around in the vise. Two strokes, zip, zip. That's it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Repeat</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now flip the scraper over in the vise and repeat the process on the other edge. This is where the T mark on the wooden holder helps you keep track of which edge and face you're working on.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 15.jpg" height="294" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C0TsVhAEJ4vwdMCgcxOLVYNyHxqb91K3Hq_P-3HJRYKx_5tyOt8cv-KXwARgOqBNFEvhv7jttiJi4fhvioJw-UKxBTYj-eeuAfzLFnKICTcR6j0SGMuEyGPqCvKDVk04Skn6yvCO" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="384" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 15: Flip the scraper in the holder over and repeat on the second edge.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Time required to do the entire scraper is 1-2 minutes. This is so fast and simple you should never hesitate to do it if you feel the scraper isn’t performing as well as it should. Have your scraper sharpening kit ready to go at a moment’s notice so it doesn’t feel like a chore.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Testing The Scraper</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Setup a piece of test stock as if you were going to plane the surface. Hold the unsharpened short sides of scraper in both hands and use your thumbs to bow out the center. This bow cambers the cutting edge; experiment with various degrees of bowing. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Set the bowed edge on the workpiece with the scraper straight up. Start tipping the scraper forward and moving it forward. At some point between vertical and 45 degrees, you should feel the hook edge bite into the wood. Experiment with a few degrees more or less tilt to find the best bite.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then with moderate pressure, run the bowed scraper at this tilt angle down the length of the wood. Lean forward with your whole upper body as you extend your arms.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Your response to this action should be GOOD GOD LOOK AT THAT! The scraper should produce amazing fine fluffy rolls of shavings similar to those from a fine set smoothing plane. It should NOT just be producing dust.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img alt="Fig 16.jpg" height="273" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/P9Q7JoAFzImM49mHZRRL8bNouriVKKPXdbZIdPYRg1W4v6VtiFQPzqgfNUj7joYAMYpHNkj3voCAsI1ZZEML_RggO2hmlUonxkDKM_QzyGhnt3goEId2Vm9rfaTdmP0ZGhUecnjY" style="-webkit-transform: rotate(0.00rad); border: none; transform: rotate(0.00rad);" width="382" /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Fig. 16: The fluffy rolls of shavings on a piece of mahogany after the above sharpening.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lean back, returning the scraper to the near end of the piece, and take some more shavings. Don't scrape repeatedly in the same spot, or the bowed edge will scrape a divot into the wood.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Spin the scraper around and flip it over to try all four hook edges. Don't be surprised if they all perform a little differently, requiring different degrees of bowing and tilt to work effectively.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Turn the board around and try it from the other direction. On a flat surface, scrapers often work just as well in either grain orientation. That's less true on angled or curved surfaces. In general, you went to scrape with the grain, down the slope across it.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Test the scraper on several different woods. Softer woods tend to fuzz up unless the scraper is very sharp. On hard tropical woods, it's like shaving glass.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">What If It Doesn't Work?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">What if your results aren't as advertised? What if all you get is dust, or unimpressive shavings? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dust from the scraper is a sign that it’s not sharp enough (also a sign that it needs to be resharpened). Try again, and pay particular attention to the key points.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Poor shavings are a sign of either poor sharpening, or poor use. First, experiment a bit more with the bowing and angling of the scraper. Bow it more heavily, tip it down further. Once you're sure it's not a usage problem, try sharpening again.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">As simple as the procedure is, it may take a few attempts to get it right. Some details are very objective: filing and honing square across the edge, and honing along the sides. You should be able to hold the file and stone level on the edge and flat to the sides easily without any kind of guide, but there are also simple guides available if you're still having difficulty.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">And it doesn't hurt if you use more pressure or strokes than necessary with the file or stone, you just may end up removing a little more metal than you need to. Overdoing it won't hurt. The only mistake you can make is using too little pressure or too few strokes. Once you've adequately filed and honed, you should have two good sharp corners along the edge.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">But other details are much more subjective. Specifically, the angle and force of the burnishing. Remember, two strokes, zip, zip, at an angle 5 to 10 degrees down from level, with moderate pressure. Not enough angle, or not enough pressure, will fail to turn enough of a hook. But overdoing it is a real mistake. That will over-turn the hook.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Achieving the right hook is a delicate balance and takes a little practice. The hook itself is a delicate and subtle thing. There's that voodoo again!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">You can slightly unroll an over-turned hook by laying the scraper down flat, standing the burnisher up at an angle with the tip caught in the hook, and lightly drawing it down the length of the edge. That may salvage a sharpening job.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Reburnishing</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">You can often get a couple of burnishings out of an edge before having to go all the way back to a full sharpening, although this method is fast enough that a complete resharpening is easy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">First unroll the hook entirely flat. Lay the scraper down flat and lay the burnisher down flat across it. Draw the burnisher along the edge once or twice. Now if you run your fingernails across the scraper to the edge, they won't catch.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mount the scraper in the vise and repeat the burnishing. That should restore a usable hook.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">You can do this a couple of times, but eventually metal fatigue and wear will reduce the hook to an unusable state. At this point, resharpen the scraper completely.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Practice Session</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Take an hour and repeatedly sharpen, test, unroll, re-roll, and re-test the scraper. Invest the time to completely resharpen it two or three times, with multiple burnishings in between, as you explore the limits of the tool.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">By the time you're done, you'll have significantly developed and refined your skill. You should notice a definite improvement in the effectiveness of the scraper and your efficiency getting it there.</span>Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-88008199508223774862016-10-09T17:19:00.000-04:002016-10-26T21:55:16.667-04:00Review: Nick Offerman's Good Clean Fun<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YYBwSuoXAl8/V_qEcZ2PsGI/AAAAAAAAMUw/yPjAtc6RJsY-cQAP5cPX3dROR__JNVLfQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7290.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YYBwSuoXAl8/V_qEcZ2PsGI/AAAAAAAAMUw/yPjAtc6RJsY-cQAP5cPX3dROR__JNVLfQCLcB/s450/IMG_7290.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Nick Offerman's Good Clean Fun with my travel toolboxes at the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event at Shackleton Thomas Furniture, in Bridgewater, VT this weekend.</span></i><br />
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This past week I got the opportunity to review Nick Offerman's new book <i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Good-Clean-Fun-Misadventures-Offerman-ebook/dp/B01ESI3Q8W/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476049211&sr=1-1&keywords=nick+offerman&linkCode=ll1&tag=closegrain-20&linkId=67a13e8d11f6ddd965fb757a302adaa6">Good Clean Fun: Misadventures in Sawdust at Offerman Woodshop</a></i>, published by Dutton. It goes on sale October 18.<br />
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Most people know Offerman from his role as small-town functionary Ron Swanson on the TV show <i>Parks And Recreation, </i>whose desk trinkets include a Claymore antipersonnel mine facing anyone approaching his desk.<br />
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But woodworkers know him from his <i>Fine Woodworking</i> articles as a fellow woodworker who has a nice side gig as an actor and humorist.<br />
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Ok, you probably mainly know him from the show as I did, and were tickled to find out he's also an honest to goodness woodworker, running the real business <a href="https://offermanwoodshop.com/">Offerman Woodshop</a>. I was just as tickled to get the opportunity to review his book.<br />
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This is his third book, the first one that is wholly about woodworking. His two previous books were <i>Paddle Your Own Canoe: One Man's Fundamentals for Delicious Living</i> and <i>Gumption: Relighting the Torch of Freedom with America's Gutsiest Troublemakers.</i><br />
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He writes with a reverently irreverent style. If Mark Twain had been a woodworker, this is the book he would have written. Informative, yet informed by a dry and acerbic wit.<br />
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His reverance is for the craft and the skill. Yet he doesn't take himself too seriously. Much of the character of Ron Swanson is clearly imbued with Offerman's true self.<br />
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The book is a combination of brief autobiography, woodworking knowledge (including a great chapter on wood, with an excellent analogy for understanding grain and wood movement), profiles of woodworkers he admires and those who work in his workshop, and projects. There's a lot of solid, practical information.<br />
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Plus, as it says on the cover, assorted tomfoolery. It's all good clean fun, with some recipes thrown in to enjoy while you're having it.<br />
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I always love finding the connections between people, and I'll point out a few here. Some tenuous, but they bind us together nevertheless with a sense of community. That's another strong theme in the book, community.<br />
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Offerman got his early woodworking knowledge from his Dad. That ability to swing a hammer got his professional woodworking career started as a scenic carpenter in the theater, and he admits to an affinity for scenic carpenters in his workshop today.<br />
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One thing that's clear, he's on the same page with most of the woodworkers I know who value working with your hands. And lament the loss of that in our present society and educational system. And wish to restore that capability. That's the first connection I'll note. Right there with you, brother.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UOc2U7ID4t8/V_qEgdLE6iI/AAAAAAAAMU0/AD-rjv03sf0egyvk0Vd4j5T4x0K2K75WgCLcB/s1600/N21%2Bresize.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UOc2U7ID4t8/V_qEgdLE6iI/AAAAAAAAMU0/AD-rjv03sf0egyvk0Vd4j5T4x0K2K75WgCLcB/s400/N21%2Bresize.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Nick squaring up the leg mortises in the Berry Stool project. Photo by Josh Salsbury, courtesy of Dutton.</span></i><br />
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Inspiring people to learn how to do things with their hands appears to be one of his main goals in writing the book. That's just as clear, based on his choice of profiles and projects. I'm also very happy to see Offerman promote and encourage the work of others in his profiles. The book isn't just about him. Like I said, it's about community.<br />
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Among the profiles is Mira Nakashima, daughter of the late George Nakashima, who specialized in Japanese-inspired works featuring live-edge tree slabs. In 1976, I lived two towns over from Nakashima's workshop in New Hope, PA, and would often ride past on my bike. Those were the days when schools still had shop class, and as a high school student I loved woodshop. I would see the sign and wonder what they did there, but never stopped to find out. Of course, that's just random coincidence.<br />
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Another profile is Chris Becksvoort, the "modern master of the Shaker style", as Ron Swanson giggles with glee in one episode of <i>Parks And Recreation</i>. I've had the pleasure of watching Becksvoort demonstrate techniques at several Lie-Nielsen Open Houses in Warren, ME.<br />
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The strongest connection among the profiles is Peter Galbert. I've demonstrated at several Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Events where Peter and his colleague Claire Minihan have also been presenters. I think of Peter as an inventor as much as a woodworker, for his innovative tool designs. It was Peter who taught me how to finesse a wooden spokeshave to vary the shavings from light to heavy, and watching his YouTube videos led to an order of magnitude improvement in my lathe turning skills.<br />
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These are people worth learning from. The profiles are all interesting reading as Offerman outlines what he admires in them. There are some good tidbits of professional woodworking business knowledge thrown in, and some inspirational surprises.<br />
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Here's the full list of profiles:<br />
<ul>
<li>Laura Zahn</li>
<li>Jimmy DiResta</li>
<li>Mira Nakashima</li>
<li>Christian Becksvoort</li>
<li>Bear Mountain Boats: Ted Moores and Joan Barrett</li>
<li>Laura Mays</li>
<li>Peter Galbert/North Bennet Street School</li>
<li>Garry Knox Bennett</li>
</ul>
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhLWMOfcs3c/V_qEgeVg1HI/AAAAAAAAMU8/4jr_-gan_lEi4ldBg4RP38eWDQTk0ZFYgCLcB/s1600/P48%2Bresize.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhLWMOfcs3c/V_qEgeVg1HI/AAAAAAAAMU8/4jr_-gan_lEi4ldBg4RP38eWDQTk0ZFYgCLcB/s400/P48%2Bresize.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Josh Salsbury clamping the top of the Jupiter Side Table project. Photo by Christine Fuqua, courtesy of Dutton.</span></i><br />
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The projects span a range of skill levels. Nakashima-style slabs feature in several of them, that's clearly a major influence in his shop. Even the simplest ones impart useful knowledge to entice the beginner, and there are a number of nice projects to engage the interest of more experienced woodworkers.<br />
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The styles are contemporary, reflecting what I would consider a California esthetic, considering the strong influences of James Krenov and the College of the Redwoods among the people profiled, similar to the work of David Marks.<br />
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The methods of work are a combination of machine and hand tool woodworking. There's also a bit of metalworking that would be fun to explore. Even if the designs aren't to your tastes, these make good projects to acquire skills you can apply to other designs.<br />
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In addition to furniture-making techniques, there's information on finishing and ebonizing, and strategies for avoiding or correcting mistakes. If you're interested in working with big natural-edge slabs, there are several tips for working on them.<br />
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My favorite project is the slingshot dining chair by Michele Diener. Chairs are a particular challenge, because they take a beating. They have to survive being kicked, pushed, dragged, and bumped daily for years, yet not collapse under someone sitting on them. Meanwhile they have to be comfortable and lightweight.<br />
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Here's the full list of projects:<br />
<ul>
<li>Matthew Micucci: Pop Top</li>
<li>Krys Shelley: Pencil Holder</li>
<li>Matty Micucci: Kazoo</li>
<li>Krys Shelley: Whisky Coasters</li>
<li>Nick Offerman: Berry Stool</li>
<li>Josh Salsbury: Jupiter Side Table</li>
<li>Nick Offerman: Beaver Tail Paddle</li>
<li>Rick Offerman: Scrappy Birdhouse</li>
<li>Jane Parrott: Craftsman Lamp</li>
<li>Matt Offerman: Slab Cribbage Board</li>
<li>Thomas Wilhoit: Claro Walnut Slab Table</li>
<li>Michele Diener: Slingshot Dining Chair</li>
<li>RH Lee: Slumber Jack Bed</li>
</ul>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_lAHQw_j-dM/V_qEgUex6WI/AAAAAAAAMU4/EBifrgyedtwNfUha8yZMllcKy5DaVCczQCLcB/s1600/R15%2Bresize.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_lAHQw_j-dM/V_qEgUex6WI/AAAAAAAAMU4/EBifrgyedtwNfUha8yZMllcKy5DaVCczQCLcB/s400/R15%2Bresize.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Nick shaping the blade of the Beaver Tail Paddle project with a Lie-Nielsen Brian Boggs spokeshave, one of my favorite tools. Photo by Josh Salsbury, courtesy of Dutton.</span></i><br />
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If the excellent project drawings cause a ping of recognition, it's because they're by John Hartman, an illustrator for <i>Fine Woodworking</i> magazine, among others.<br />
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Before the last project, the book finishes up with an assortment of recipes contributed by the shop denizens for their lunches and cookouts.<br />
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That final project is another interesting one, a knockdown bed. I always find knockdown furniture fascinating because it goes together and comes apart like a puzzle, yet has to be sturdy in use. That poses significant challenges in design and execution.<br />
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Nick will be going on a book tour from October 17 through November 5 if you'd like an opportunity to see him.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cqe5i_OHhE0/V_qHNPjszuI/AAAAAAAAMVE/KYpZvIDyG6kfsUuKVNvGEm-qCoCrYjVqwCLcB/s1600/Good-Clean-Fun_Tour-Card_EW.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cqe5i_OHhE0/V_qHNPjszuI/AAAAAAAAMVE/KYpZvIDyG6kfsUuKVNvGEm-qCoCrYjVqwCLcB/s600/Good-Clean-Fun_Tour-Card_EW.png" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Tour information, courtesy of Dutton.</span></i>Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-20325186251615973272016-10-01T13:53:00.001-04:002016-10-01T13:53:03.189-04:00Two Stones And A Strop, part 3<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RHYbfRw7NNg/V-_fFLpVPvI/AAAAAAAAMRY/qcgbqlhqMk4u9iOwgH9HW5FXfLWqTc6lwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7157.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RHYbfRw7NNg/V-_fFLpVPvI/AAAAAAAAMRY/qcgbqlhqMk4u9iOwgH9HW5FXfLWqTc6lwCLcB/s400/IMG_7157.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The portable leather sharpening kit rolled up.</span></i><br />
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(Go back to <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/06/two-stones-and-strop-part-2.html">part 2</a>)<br />
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Here I'll show how to make the portable leather sharpening kit. Leather is a good material for this because it's tough, flexible, easy to work with, and stiff enough to keep things steady on the bench in use. The leather I used is from a half-side piece of <a href="http://www.crazycrow.com/oil-tanned-leather/oil-tanned-blacksmith-half-sides-10-25-sf">Blacksmith side</a> from Crazy Crow Trading Post. I also make my strops from this leather.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XHQVIYIgbTw/V-_fE75r0MI/AAAAAAAAMRU/2P3UemwEQLY9iR5AQtWpQuHF_-raqYroQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7158.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XHQVIYIgbTw/V-_fE75r0MI/AAAAAAAAMRU/2P3UemwEQLY9iR5AQtWpQuHF_-raqYroQCLcB/s400/IMG_7158.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The kit unrolled, showing coarse and fine India stones and strop. </span></i><br />
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The stone holders are made from 3/4" pine, excavated from solid pieces. I selected stock that was effectively quartersawn. They have a 3/4" border on each side, and 1 1/8" on each end. For 8" x 3" India stones, that comes out to 10 1/4" x 4". The strop is made from 1/2" plywood, sized to match.<br />
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For the main holders, I planed the stock down to 1/2" thick. These stones are 1/2". I excavated 1/4" deep recesses in all the holders, so that leaves 1/4" of stone above the holder. The loose center holder is 3/4", with a recess on each side.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wk6DeDazTos/V-_h4Or31uI/AAAAAAAAMRk/6T0C-u3eusYj0FKBM1MNjoM6tSkHJWF9ACLcB/s1600/IMG_7105.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wk6DeDazTos/V-_h4Or31uI/AAAAAAAAMRk/6T0C-u3eusYj0FKBM1MNjoM6tSkHJWF9ACLcB/s400/IMG_7105.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Roughing the main holders to thickness with a wooden jack plane. With the iron set for a heavy cut, this is about 30 seconds of work.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HJd5ukwcNlI/V-_h4N8Nq1I/AAAAAAAAMRo/v6L36tQsIhgp69ym34yRaE35PFxZBZt4gCLcB/s1600/IMG_7106.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HJd5ukwcNlI/V-_h4N8Nq1I/AAAAAAAAMRo/v6L36tQsIhgp69ym34yRaE35PFxZBZt4gCLcB/s400/IMG_7106.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Flattening them with a #7 jointer.</span></i><br />
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I outlined the recesses with a marking gauge, then excavated them with a router plane. This might seem like a lot of work, but it goes easily in this pine. Just take it a layer at a time, don't try to hog it all out once. The quartersawn material excavates very nicely.<br />
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I did the work on my <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2011/04/building-bench-on-bench.html">bench-on-bench</a> to raise it up and save my back. This is much more comfortable standing upright.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DzJ7Uzn2_UA/V-_h4DXMJwI/AAAAAAAAMRs/aABE4HqP-kofNB2F9BX1QWgKwLhmRtuJwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7107.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DzJ7Uzn2_UA/V-_h4DXMJwI/AAAAAAAAMRs/aABE4HqP-kofNB2F9BX1QWgKwLhmRtuJwCLcB/s400/IMG_7107.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Excavating the recesses lengthwise with a router plane.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UI8BuWs3w7s/V-_h4XYkKgI/AAAAAAAAMRw/BVkUUDJKxUobSk-ztAlH8Smp2ROtwHWpgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7108.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UI8BuWs3w7s/V-_h4XYkKgI/AAAAAAAAMRw/BVkUUDJKxUobSk-ztAlH8Smp2ROtwHWpgCLcB/s400/IMG_7108.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Trimming up the end waste crossgrain.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E7b1eLRvwi0/V-_h4qLH5xI/AAAAAAAAMR0/Lsnfs5JiJdI3XKo4h4f4BpNDCRADq8WNgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7109.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E7b1eLRvwi0/V-_h4qLH5xI/AAAAAAAAMR0/Lsnfs5JiJdI3XKo4h4f4BpNDCRADq8WNgCLcB/s400/IMG_7109.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Chopping down the endgrain with a chisel to do the next layer.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qME3tiWDDrU/V-_h4nkVekI/AAAAAAAAMR4/kOpVkl3VjyMnul7nA63dtZLE3jJAup1ugCLcB/s1600/IMG_7110.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qME3tiWDDrU/V-_h4nkVekI/AAAAAAAAMR4/kOpVkl3VjyMnul7nA63dtZLE3jJAup1ugCLcB/s400/IMG_7110.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">After excavating, cleaning up the edges. Be careful not to use too much pressure and split the piece along the grain. You want the stones to fit snugly. Make the excavation just a hair too tight, then enlarge it one shaving at a time.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sDan_uJ0DDs/V-_h4vwpcZI/AAAAAAAAMR8/zD70kiUnbKs8qUKNL_n0QZ4sQxWRrcZhACLcB/s1600/IMG_7112.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sDan_uJ0DDs/V-_h4vwpcZI/AAAAAAAAMR8/zD70kiUnbKs8qUKNL_n0QZ4sQxWRrcZhACLcB/s400/IMG_7112.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Cleaning out precise endgrain corners.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MrVEBFz21Ac/V-_h40MoBZI/AAAAAAAAMSA/6g1uhDyBFYwFfWAehhnOg11ajvPJxJLfwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7113.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MrVEBFz21Ac/V-_h40MoBZI/AAAAAAAAMSA/6g1uhDyBFYwFfWAehhnOg11ajvPJxJLfwCLcB/s400/IMG_7113.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The excavated pieces.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fHk73qhdHy4/V-_h5DgzA3I/AAAAAAAAMSI/ZmvqdN1tgpsPBG4cMvE_bvIPd2Si3bqtACLcB/s1600/IMG_7115.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fHk73qhdHy4/V-_h5DgzA3I/AAAAAAAAMSI/ZmvqdN1tgpsPBG4cMvE_bvIPd2Si3bqtACLcB/s400/IMG_7115.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using a holder as a template to mark out the strop base.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6cf0N6TPZe4/V-_h5GH8C-I/AAAAAAAAMSE/UXYKAAAeeNcKiqKTI1pS7iOS0SoT_mmdQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7116.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6cf0N6TPZe4/V-_h5GH8C-I/AAAAAAAAMSE/UXYKAAAeeNcKiqKTI1pS7iOS0SoT_mmdQCLcB/s400/IMG_7116.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Sawing out the base. Plywood cuts easily with a crosscut saw. A ripsaw catches in the crossgrain plies and tears them.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hZjo6TiX74M/V-_h5YnrvaI/AAAAAAAAMSM/HNMDMRXBvSkM9dIx0AWr-SY2PRFm8Uj7gCLcB/s1600/IMG_7117.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hZjo6TiX74M/V-_h5YnrvaI/AAAAAAAAMSM/HNMDMRXBvSkM9dIx0AWr-SY2PRFm8Uj7gCLcB/s400/IMG_7117.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Shooting the plywood edges to clean them up.</span></i><br />
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I did all the leather cutting with a chisel. A sharp chisel slices it like a hot knife through butter. To glue the leather and wood, I used contact cement, then rolled it with a J-roller. The cement and roller are available from home centers in the laminate section.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_cO_-2qZyE/V-_h5s5azyI/AAAAAAAAMSQ/QzX-szUhyrAVMNjhgnkqWnCeUPKcoqbyACLcB/s1600/IMG_7118.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_cO_-2qZyE/V-_h5s5azyI/AAAAAAAAMSQ/QzX-szUhyrAVMNjhgnkqWnCeUPKcoqbyACLcB/s400/IMG_7118.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using the strop base as a template to layout the strop leather with a white pencil.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tpqeKXdO7kQ/V-_h5kW61II/AAAAAAAAMSU/VKnDs9oezZ4pFLKioab3Xi8BvEigEkhowCLcB/s1600/IMG_7119.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tpqeKXdO7kQ/V-_h5kW61II/AAAAAAAAMSU/VKnDs9oezZ4pFLKioab3Xi8BvEigEkhowCLcB/s400/IMG_7119.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using a chisel to slice out the leather, just a hair large. There's a scrap underneath as a cutting board.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dx-c8WM6438/V-_h57RxESI/AAAAAAAAMSY/kKc70cX95EEKogQ2gG2LXNmDWSxZcME2ACLcB/s1600/IMG_7120.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dx-c8WM6438/V-_h57RxESI/AAAAAAAAMSY/kKc70cX95EEKogQ2gG2LXNmDWSxZcME2ACLcB/s400/IMG_7120.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Brushing contact cement onto the leather and wood. This needs to dry for half an hour before putting them together.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ySX79-urPkk/V-_h6NQz_DI/AAAAAAAAMSc/6DYraG5Ol2YZM1qWOHdkwj2vzRpRdS93wCLcB/s1600/IMG_7121.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ySX79-urPkk/V-_h6NQz_DI/AAAAAAAAMSc/6DYraG5Ol2YZM1qWOHdkwj2vzRpRdS93wCLcB/s400/IMG_7121.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Lining things up to work out the general size of the leather.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPAS2qg0VuU/V-_h6AHBM2I/AAAAAAAAMSg/NbgtnGqMrCYEfxK-4bmyrUskwdjP6_mOgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7122.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPAS2qg0VuU/V-_h6AHBM2I/AAAAAAAAMSg/NbgtnGqMrCYEfxK-4bmyrUskwdjP6_mOgCLcB/s400/IMG_7122.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Marking out the side and upper and lower edges of the leather. Remember that there will be spaces between the wooden parts, so make it long. I cut it the same way with the chisel.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v63Nhl8_4X8/V-_h6TVj-xI/AAAAAAAAMSk/GHuawZJfvXAH2NhL8Kp0W73mUHwFNIehwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7123.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v63Nhl8_4X8/V-_h6TVj-xI/AAAAAAAAMSk/GHuawZJfvXAH2NhL8Kp0W73mUHwFNIehwCLcB/s400/IMG_7123.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Easing the edges of the center holder so that it fits over the stones easily when I close up the kit.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J9osxgOUlQQ/V-_h6YOHovI/AAAAAAAAMSo/XE6oMQrbkQQsbrF9AIseVXc0ioaRlo2twCLcB/s1600/IMG_7124.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J9osxgOUlQQ/V-_h6YOHovI/AAAAAAAAMSo/XE6oMQrbkQQsbrF9AIseVXc0ioaRlo2twCLcB/s400/IMG_7124.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The holders with the stones in place so I can figure out final spacing on the leather.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bJ-HCdhsuv0/V-_h6ta5CGI/AAAAAAAAMSs/LjxhR3fYVAAIhSuyQnuy4VUGQvVgtK5kwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7125.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bJ-HCdhsuv0/V-_h6ta5CGI/AAAAAAAAMSs/LjxhR3fYVAAIhSuyQnuy4VUGQvVgtK5kwCLcB/s400/IMG_7125.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The contact cement is ready. The dividers hold the pieces apart to allow me to position them precisely. Then I pressed one end in place, slid the dividers out, and pressed the rest down, stretching it as I went to avoid wrinkles.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rOHDwj1GcCQ/V-_h6p6wrRI/AAAAAAAAMSw/tzhZGYRYoQclfpKbeWBOn9S_afBLgbmugCLcB/s1600/IMG_7128.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rOHDwj1GcCQ/V-_h6p6wrRI/AAAAAAAAMSw/tzhZGYRYoQclfpKbeWBOn9S_afBLgbmugCLcB/s530/IMG_7128.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Applying even pressure all over with the J-roller. This needs to be flat, with no lumps.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f_zFl5mpOXQ/V-_h69pHFRI/AAAAAAAAMS0/ZErUYB0hZpsclufUp5VjBe4qX9quh-rOgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7130.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f_zFl5mpOXQ/V-_h69pHFRI/AAAAAAAAMS0/ZErUYB0hZpsclufUp5VjBe4qX9quh-rOgCLcB/s530/IMG_7130.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Trimming to precise fit. The chisel chops down through the leather easily with hand pressure.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4qnuLCnIRQ4/V-_h7HSViqI/AAAAAAAAMS4/aRoG6RRQ9o0FTnCdbrn5VfSS1_KNBqdzACLcB/s1600/IMG_7131.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4qnuLCnIRQ4/V-_h7HSViqI/AAAAAAAAMS4/aRoG6RRQ9o0FTnCdbrn5VfSS1_KNBqdzACLcB/s400/IMG_7131.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Lightly marking where the edge of the first holder will be.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bmMWyQT3wPg/V-_h7KJpNPI/AAAAAAAAMS8/TgR6137BO4QmiT6m-89mfkIAZzXyWhb-gCLcB/s1600/IMG_7132.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bmMWyQT3wPg/V-_h7KJpNPI/AAAAAAAAMS8/TgR6137BO4QmiT6m-89mfkIAZzXyWhb-gCLcB/s400/IMG_7132.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Brushing contact cement on the back of the holder and its position on the leather.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5UHNaK5QR-4/V-_h7c1MlTI/AAAAAAAAMTA/kXPdBScOPJA_R7WeARfWlrqoy8FDWcrEgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7133.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5UHNaK5QR-4/V-_h7c1MlTI/AAAAAAAAMTA/kXPdBScOPJA_R7WeARfWlrqoy8FDWcrEgCLcB/s400/IMG_7133.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">After letting it dry, positioning the holder on the leather. I pressed it and rolled it like the strop.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fgH_XqVoH-w/V-_h7WTOHxI/AAAAAAAAMTE/pTP-xkyo25sJ-F8z8Qpjk2KekJccD5VDACLcB/s1600/IMG_7135.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fgH_XqVoH-w/V-_h7WTOHxI/AAAAAAAAMTE/pTP-xkyo25sJ-F8z8Qpjk2KekJccD5VDACLcB/s400/IMG_7135.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">With the first holder folded over in position on the stack, using my fingers to evenly space out the side. There needs to be enough slack that the center holder slides onto the stones as you roll it up. Don't make the corners tight.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Phwo_kdSrs/V-_h7mLFXzI/AAAAAAAAMTI/rfVumeT32vk4xeOg7_0NtqurEzt0OqiPgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7136.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Phwo_kdSrs/V-_h7mLFXzI/AAAAAAAAMTI/rfVumeT32vk4xeOg7_0NtqurEzt0OqiPgCLcB/s400/IMG_7136.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Brushing on contact cement for the second holder. The blue masking tape works well, I should have thought of that before I did the first one.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tEaoYqLnVds/V-_h7-cmpqI/AAAAAAAAMTM/hXGGcKbwi9E9fC8lEAz7-qOf6ZIJxvpnQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7140.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tEaoYqLnVds/V-_h7-cmpqI/AAAAAAAAMTM/hXGGcKbwi9E9fC8lEAz7-qOf6ZIJxvpnQCLcB/s400/IMG_7140.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">After the cement has dried, positioning the stack. I added the screwdriver as an additional spacer I could pull out to press the first end in place. I rolled this afterwards.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xZHJsUWy6LQ/V-_h74jzhFI/AAAAAAAAMTQ/1smwEiPs7swIaX811dAfRE6e6l7GvmSlACLcB/s1600/IMG_7141.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xZHJsUWy6LQ/V-_h74jzhFI/AAAAAAAAMTQ/1smwEiPs7swIaX811dAfRE6e6l7GvmSlACLcB/s400/IMG_7141.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Spacing out the second side to figure out where to position the strop. I cemented it in place like the stone holders.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiuNKpB7J1k/V-_h8AIEOfI/AAAAAAAAMTU/R60iTIVnW8URljQturZqbI2Q6tyblD7IwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7143.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiuNKpB7J1k/V-_h8AIEOfI/AAAAAAAAMTU/R60iTIVnW8URljQturZqbI2Q6tyblD7IwCLcB/s400/IMG_7143.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Trimming the edges precisely.</span></i><br />
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For the snaps, I used a hardware store snap kit and a leather punch. An awl makes a nice improvised punch.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uxQOMKcKrnE/V-_h8EZPUqI/AAAAAAAAMTY/BZyqWuw69FgHmIQp12rapDO-_OnYDGXFQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7144.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uxQOMKcKrnE/V-_h8EZPUqI/AAAAAAAAMTY/BZyqWuw69FgHmIQp12rapDO-_OnYDGXFQCLcB/s400/IMG_7144.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Punching holes for the snap bases.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0oTQkARfY4o/V-_h8QPySRI/AAAAAAAAMTc/LTUPXuJxgVwCJvvyrXEyc4naIn_Cw7jLwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7147.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0oTQkARfY4o/V-_h8QPySRI/AAAAAAAAMTc/LTUPXuJxgVwCJvvyrXEyc4naIn_Cw7jLwCLcB/s400/IMG_7147.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using an awl to make the center hole, where the punch wouldn't reach.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SznzWtVOTC0/V-_h8mfdoCI/AAAAAAAAMTg/MLsdJ74_LzgxdlV5JWRQLRgKirBIWClaACLcB/s1600/IMG_7149.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SznzWtVOTC0/V-_h8mfdoCI/AAAAAAAAMTg/MLsdJ74_LzgxdlV5JWRQLRgKirBIWClaACLcB/s400/IMG_7149.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Setting the snap bases.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZSM2u5xMIak/V-_h8ogVVjI/AAAAAAAAMTk/DHU2NiNIb6g0ec5iUyeL1PTrhc4H1ZnaACLcB/s1600/IMG_7152.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZSM2u5xMIak/V-_h8ogVVjI/AAAAAAAAMTk/DHU2NiNIb6g0ec5iUyeL1PTrhc4H1ZnaACLcB/s400/IMG_7152.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">With the kit rolled up, tapping down with a mallet to mark where the snaps line up with the flap.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qZhHYLh6cbU/V-_h8w_itJI/AAAAAAAAMTo/WCbF9_xqZUATyWdEnZ_TAkyP4jewX6MhACLcB/s1600/IMG_7154.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qZhHYLh6cbU/V-_h8w_itJI/AAAAAAAAMTo/WCbF9_xqZUATyWdEnZ_TAkyP4jewX6MhACLcB/s400/IMG_7154.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The marks in the leather.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-72juKBQL_t4/V-_h82zsigI/AAAAAAAAMTs/l1NT0mDFWuQAhDtunzzi0Ns1yqsaXYYYACLcB/s1600/IMG_7156.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-72juKBQL_t4/V-_h82zsigI/AAAAAAAAMTs/l1NT0mDFWuQAhDtunzzi0Ns1yqsaXYYYACLcB/s400/IMG_7156.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Now that I know where the snaps will end up, laying out the flap. I made the flap end 3/4" past the centerline of the snaps. I cut the remaining leather off with the chisel, punched the holes and set the snap caps.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LNf7PuqOI0w/V-_zvLvZhPI/AAAAAAAAMUA/5vTNIATMwmUeKdciINscst0AMIPGvj_owCLcB/s1600/IMG_7160.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LNf7PuqOI0w/V-_zvLvZhPI/AAAAAAAAMUA/5vTNIATMwmUeKdciINscst0AMIPGvj_owCLcB/s400/IMG_7160.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The completed kit sitting atop the matching miniature Japanese toolbox.</span></i><br />
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The sharpening kit and miniature toolbox make a nice portable setup that can be tucked into a larger toolbox. Both fit nicely in the hands.Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-40313186728309210902016-09-25T12:46:00.001-04:002016-09-25T12:46:03.500-04:00Littleton Common Makers GoFundMe<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ldjp_B9NvQs/V-f4Gw-INvI/AAAAAAAAMQc/oEZUCN2-4149-5DrNP_ZIlumMFyy3fg-gCLcB/s1600/6c84d9_a863550202434b64bca19d22835dacd4-mv2_d_5312_2988_s_4_2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ldjp_B9NvQs/V-f4Gw-INvI/AAAAAAAAMQc/oEZUCN2-4149-5DrNP_ZIlumMFyy3fg-gCLcB/s400/6c84d9_a863550202434b64bca19d22835dacd4-mv2_d_5312_2988_s_4_2.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Demonstrating chisel usage at the Littleton Common Makers booth at Littleton's Third Thursday event in July.</span></i><br />
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<a href="http://www.lcmakers.com/">Littleton Common Makers</a>, the makerspace in Littleton, MA where I run my <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/p/for-veterans.html">free veterans woodworking program</a>, is conducting a GoFundMe campaign in order to remain open for another year. Click <a href="https://www.gofundme.com/lcmakers">here</a> if you'd like to contribute.<br />
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The goal of the funding is to cover rent and expenses, and add improved equipment to increase membership. Ultimately the goal is for the makerspace to be self-sustaining from membership. For now, the membership isn't large enough. It takes up-front investment to establish the space and bring in equipment and programs that will attract people.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9CD6FEMC3BY/V-f4PJbiXWI/AAAAAAAAMQg/f9IB1xr1jHsL0tkxsvtRzvwKCsIrpEYUQCLcB/s1600/14763081_1474635807.4079.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9CD6FEMC3BY/V-f4PJbiXWI/AAAAAAAAMQg/f9IB1xr1jHsL0tkxsvtRzvwKCsIrpEYUQCLcB/s400/14763081_1474635807.4079.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Some of the antique tools I use for teaching, with a few fun curls of wood.</span></i><br />
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A makerspace is a shared community resource that makes tools, equipment, and workspace available to people who wouldn't normally have acceess to them. This includes tools for working metal, plastic, wood, and other materials, from antique woodworking hand tools to high-tech CNC and 3D printers, laser cutters, electronics, and robotics. It's all hands-on, learning how to apply skills and make things yourself.<br />
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It's also a collaborative space, where people share knowledge and techniques. The multi-disciplinary, cross-functional environment stimulates all kinds of creative energy.<br />
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See <a href="https://www.gofundme.com/lcmakers">this page</a> for more information and please help keep LCM open!Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-84345623135870229992016-09-10T17:07:00.000-04:002016-09-10T17:07:25.648-04:00Lie-Nielsen Open House 2016<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ezcn7nLA8Ic/V9RY_tzpI-I/AAAAAAAAMMY/1puxlM54OJ0zkLP-K5qvk66mFMFu9i56gCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160709_213036.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="369" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ezcn7nLA8Ic/V9RY_tzpI-I/AAAAAAAAMMY/1puxlM54OJ0zkLP-K5qvk66mFMFu9i56gCLcB/s400/IMG_20160709_213036.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;"><i>My setup at Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. The bench with the banner has my tools displayed in Japanese toolboxes standing on end.</i></span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;"><i><br /></i></span>
It's been a busy summer. First both my kids graduated from college (Yay, no more college bills! They'll just spend the rest of their lives paying off their school loans). Then I spent several weeks getting the house ready for my mother-in-law to move in with us, seeing as we had two empty bedrooms. Then a week of vacation for the fourth year at beautiful <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2013/08/varnum-pond-vacation.html">Varnum Pond</a>, in Temple, ME.<br />
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Meanwhile I've been spending all my woodworking time and commuter rail rides working on <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/01/big-news-book-and-another-video-course.html">my book</a>. This has taken far longer than I expected, so I had to extend the completion date to December.<br />
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That's why I'm just now getting around to writing about the Lie-Nielsen Open House back on July 8 and 9 in Warren, ME. They were celebrating their 35th year.<br />
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The weather was damp, gray, and chilly, not what you'd expect the week after 4th of July. But at least we weren't roasting in the 95-degree heat that had been plaguing Boston.<br />
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As with <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2015/08/lie-nielsen-open-house-2015.html">last year</a>, I was promoting my "Intro To Hand Tools" online video course at Popular Woodworking University. The Fall 2016 session starts Sept. 16. See <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/08/fall-2016-session-intro-to-hand-tools.html">here</a> for details.<br />
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For my booth, I had built 4 Japanese toolboxes from Toshio Odate's book <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0941936465/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0941936465&linkCode=as2&tag=closegrain-20&linkId=0f2c945a2f6e57ba181a2b1105fb917a">Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="//ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=closegrain-20&l=am2&o=1&a=0941936465" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />. I fitted out two of them with custom tills to allow me to store and display my tools on the workbench. This was much better than having everything scattered all over the bench.<br />
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I spent the time showing people how to use the tools, letting them try things out, and demonstrating my <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/06/two-stones-and-strop.html">2 stones and a strop</a> sharpening setup. People are always amazed at what sharp tools can do.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mAmCuRkzMhU/V9RyRBpbuzI/AAAAAAAAMOI/lr-NQmoyoq4AtpbC1BDT-8qE4SfhZw72ACLcB/s1600/IMG_20160910_164900.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="322" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mAmCuRkzMhU/V9RyRBpbuzI/AAAAAAAAMOI/lr-NQmoyoq4AtpbC1BDT-8qE4SfhZw72ACLcB/s400/IMG_20160910_164900.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Sue Tolleson-Rinehart, from North Carolina, learning how to use a bowsaw to rough out curves.</span></i><br />
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I also had a copy of the May, 2016 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine to show off with my End Grain article, <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/end-grain-woodworking-interval-training">Woodworking Interval Training</a>. I was thrilled and honored to close out an issue with Roy Underhill on the cover.<br />
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This has become quite an event, with demonstrators and visitors coming from all over the country.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5a2SguTld3s/V9Ri0TmHKtI/AAAAAAAAMMo/gr2MPOgV6lQv2Rvy_uF6bKgJvnmnogzxgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7244.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5a2SguTld3s/V9Ri0TmHKtI/AAAAAAAAMMo/gr2MPOgV6lQv2Rvy_uF6bKgJvnmnogzxgCLcB/s480/IMG_7244.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Bob Van Dyke, of the Connecticut Valley School Of Woodworking, demonstrating sand shading for inlays.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FnYDeAJnB2w/V9Ri0WON5JI/AAAAAAAAMMw/GN53iz2KF5Uh_mE8fPtspUymFOGLJAAbACLcB/s1600/IMG_7245.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FnYDeAJnB2w/V9Ri0WON5JI/AAAAAAAAMMw/GN53iz2KF5Uh_mE8fPtspUymFOGLJAAbACLcB/s400/IMG_7245.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Tico Vogt demonstrating his Super Chute Board.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_rpvTS-M5as/V9Ri0SO3dWI/AAAAAAAAMMs/pI4b-vPZNnUFHezp5WH3VwfcBSzXA9hEQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7246.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_rpvTS-M5as/V9Ri0SO3dWI/AAAAAAAAMMs/pI4b-vPZNnUFHezp5WH3VwfcBSzXA9hEQCLcB/s400/IMG_7246.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Claire Minihan demonstrating her magnificent chairmaking travishers.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xhQL_yQE8k8/V9Ri0xfvi1I/AAAAAAAAMM0/8PPrseZzN5s5YoSe52iSDzU_DZcqDgw3QCLcB/s1600/IMG_7250.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xhQL_yQE8k8/V9Ri0xfvi1I/AAAAAAAAMM0/8PPrseZzN5s5YoSe52iSDzU_DZcqDgw3QCLcB/s400/IMG_7250.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Chairmaker Peter Galbert shaving chair parts on a shaving horse.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-19RH50DXgbk/V9Ri04RELzI/AAAAAAAAMM4/JepBJBWWQCwqau8JRY4WdnCicIAP533LwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7252.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-19RH50DXgbk/V9Ri04RELzI/AAAAAAAAMM4/JepBJBWWQCwqau8JRY4WdnCicIAP533LwCLcB/s400/IMG_7252.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The Guild Of Maine Woodworkers.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uENSEEyv-bw/V9Ri1PgERHI/AAAAAAAAMM8/D55LdHFTiHA4Eut0tKea1mtYuuYuwskIwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7253.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uENSEEyv-bw/V9Ri1PgERHI/AAAAAAAAMM8/D55LdHFTiHA4Eut0tKea1mtYuuYuwskIwCLcB/s400/IMG_7253.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Popular Woodworking Magazine editor Megan Fitzpatrick. I finally got to meet her in person!</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yQ-DBNiJ4KU/V9Ri1Kxv4jI/AAAAAAAAMNA/Y7a-Vx-1Nk03jYom0MnRZPSRieNz2152wCLcB/s1600/IMG_7254.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yQ-DBNiJ4KU/V9Ri1Kxv4jI/AAAAAAAAMNA/Y7a-Vx-1Nk03jYom0MnRZPSRieNz2152wCLcB/s400/IMG_7254.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Hamilton Woodworks selling a variety of gorgeous marking gauges.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5nPYP88jxtc/V9Ri1VJLeMI/AAAAAAAAMNE/ERK3BNVx_v8n49XnKzVI-TqcCC5z89qlQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7255.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5nPYP88jxtc/V9Ri1VJLeMI/AAAAAAAAMNE/ERK3BNVx_v8n49XnKzVI-TqcCC5z89qlQCLcB/s400/IMG_7255.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Joshua Klein demonstrating chopping a mortise and promoting his beautiful new publication, Mortise And Tenon Magazine.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jdJatuWj0V8/V9Ri1rIIdcI/AAAAAAAAMNI/jHx7_bgY5kky6YYwLaAsJVx6hviVlVvfgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7257.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jdJatuWj0V8/V9Ri1rIIdcI/AAAAAAAAMNI/jHx7_bgY5kky6YYwLaAsJVx6hviVlVvfgCLcB/s400/IMG_7257.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Freddy Roman trimming dovetails.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-65kSioxvVNA/V9Ri1iu9kyI/AAAAAAAAMNM/oNISHNjijKwrJezCUzyjgimINUXAHj4tQCLcB/s1600/IMG_7258.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-65kSioxvVNA/V9Ri1iu9kyI/AAAAAAAAMNM/oNISHNjijKwrJezCUzyjgimINUXAHj4tQCLcB/s400/IMG_7258.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Left, Rory Wood of Rare Woods USA behind his stack of beautiful imported woods. Right, Travis Knapp, who sells Rory's wood on eBay as RareWoodsUS.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3CHz3F4pftg/V9Ri1_KBOQI/AAAAAAAAMNQ/-XVdQvf3AlAXDcXAKFVOYM9RQJltbPZ_QCLcB/s1600/IMG_7261.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3CHz3F4pftg/V9Ri1_KBOQI/AAAAAAAAMNQ/-XVdQvf3AlAXDcXAKFVOYM9RQJltbPZ_QCLcB/s400/IMG_7261.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Tom McLaughlin of Epic Woodworking. The chair mockup is from his episode of Rough Cut with Tommy Mac on PBS, where they built a library chair.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zuP0a5AiBbg/V9Ri2KI-i0I/AAAAAAAAMNU/o6jaAeXLZwIay1KnhdzQHCf-N8KKJiUqwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7265.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zuP0a5AiBbg/V9Ri2KI-i0I/AAAAAAAAMNU/o6jaAeXLZwIay1KnhdzQHCf-N8KKJiUqwCLcB/s400/IMG_7265.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The Apprenticeshop making oars.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TdjsUH81Bj4/V9Ri2IWr8ZI/AAAAAAAAMNY/9Qo9bfHNDRkYo5yTksn52e1Kb5LliaiOACLcB/s1600/IMG_7268.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TdjsUH81Bj4/V9Ri2IWr8ZI/AAAAAAAAMNY/9Qo9bfHNDRkYo5yTksn52e1Kb5LliaiOACLcB/s400/IMG_7268.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Roger Benton of Lie-Nielsen in the showroom, demonstrating one of their low-angle planes.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RSCp7WD-FwY/V9Ri2HY7MLI/AAAAAAAAMNc/ZL3peBmbuSMtcIKT_4MBINZtlpKimy0KgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7271.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="345" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RSCp7WD-FwY/V9Ri2HY7MLI/AAAAAAAAMNc/ZL3peBmbuSMtcIKT_4MBINZtlpKimy0KgCLcB/s400/IMG_7271.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Christian Becksvoort with a beautiful small Shaker cabinet in cherry.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DGRhtGxwpAk/V9Ri2Z-HgjI/AAAAAAAAMNg/n8Ax2DoazzUTiT_NVonYUKpnqTD211ltACLcB/s1600/IMG_7273.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DGRhtGxwpAk/V9Ri2Z-HgjI/AAAAAAAAMNg/n8Ax2DoazzUTiT_NVonYUKpnqTD211ltACLcB/s400/IMG_7273.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Isaac Smith of Blackburn Tools, center, and Matt Bickford, right, with his beautiful moulding planes.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n7tKLbv-GUU/V9Ri2mOXyBI/AAAAAAAAMNk/Ua1Jm_loceU-_nvYCbYebqHSsBJxDwiXwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7274.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="337" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n7tKLbv-GUU/V9Ri2mOXyBI/AAAAAAAAMNk/Ua1Jm_loceU-_nvYCbYebqHSsBJxDwiXwCLcB/s400/IMG_7274.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Phil Lowe, of the Furniture Institute of Massachusetts.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gOyQdPexRIc/V9Ri2kDXTlI/AAAAAAAAMNo/54NJp3ADBfYvUsUc4h3IOyq5zs4cA6zDgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7276.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gOyQdPexRIc/V9Ri2kDXTlI/AAAAAAAAMNo/54NJp3ADBfYvUsUc4h3IOyq5zs4cA6zDgCLcB/s400/IMG_7276.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Matt Cianci, the Saw Wright, demonstrating saw sharpening.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5KXA8B1pJfo/V9Ri2-GWpoI/AAAAAAAAMNs/9AR8Eiy-FkcDGsiVCzOO37XaR807sFeowCLcB/s1600/IMG_7278.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5KXA8B1pJfo/V9Ri2-GWpoI/AAAAAAAAMNs/9AR8Eiy-FkcDGsiVCzOO37XaR807sFeowCLcB/s400/IMG_7278.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Garrett Hack working on a lovely small side table.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T4lHV99pvEw/V9Ri2z7og8I/AAAAAAAAMN0/LvrozSg1le4NueMno2WR6-FEzg5Q1zVNwCLcB/s1600/IMG_7281.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T4lHV99pvEw/V9Ri2z7og8I/AAAAAAAAMN0/LvrozSg1le4NueMno2WR6-FEzg5Q1zVNwCLcB/s400/IMG_7281.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Isaac Smith's frame and backsaws for sale. I have one of his large frame saw kits, I just need to build it. The thing is awesome for resawing.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8_I2sKr_x4I/V9Ri25gLV-I/AAAAAAAAMNw/DGD19IJr3hc7OvSte5TVnKYgsRxWBFelgCLcB/s1600/IMG_7283.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="381" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8_I2sKr_x4I/V9Ri25gLV-I/AAAAAAAAMNw/DGD19IJr3hc7OvSte5TVnKYgsRxWBFelgCLcB/s400/IMG_7283.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The featured speaker for the Saturday night lobster bake was Garry Chinn, founder of Garrett Wade Tools. He was Tom Lie-Nielsen's first and only boss, before Tom set off on his own to found Lie-Nielsen Toolworks.</span></i>Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-8089060509926132562016-08-19T15:18:00.000-04:002016-08-19T15:18:53.881-04:00Good To The Grain<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kAvpABtZ3Sc/V7dSN7soKYI/AAAAAAAAMLg/E20sp38bEVA4336JnG1fG52FMkRLTKlKwCLcB/s1600/KS.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kAvpABtZ3Sc/V7dSN7soKYI/AAAAAAAAMLg/E20sp38bEVA4336JnG1fG52FMkRLTKlKwCLcB/s400/KS.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">One of Good To The Grain's contemporary designs, an address plaque.</span></i><br />
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I love seeing people grow. One of my readers, Diane Decocq, has made the jump to starting her own custom woodworking business, <a href="http://www.goodtothegrain.com/">Good To The Grain</a>.<br />
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As part of expanding her business, she wants to expand her skills. To do this, she's planning to attend the <a href="http://www.swcfc.org/">Southwest School Of Woodworking</a>, in Phoenix, AZ.<br />
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She's started a Kickstarter project to fund her studies. This will cover materials and tuition. In return for pledged funds, she offers a variety of custom-made items.<br />
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Go to <a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2026614002/good-to-the-grain-hand-designed-custom-wood-pieces">her Kickstarter page</a> to learn more or help fund her classes. It includes a video slideshow of some of her work.<br />
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If you're unfamiliar with how Kickstarter works, you can get more information at <a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/about">their "about" page</a>. But the short description is that it's a website to allow people to fund creative projects and receive items resulting from that funding. This is known as <i>crowdfunding</i>. By helping in small amounts, a crowd of people are able to pool their resources to help achieve something bigger.<br />
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The Southwest School Of Woodworking looks like a great place. Good course selection, good list of instructors, good workspace.<br />
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Good luck with your new venture, Diane!Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-3811580984974438072016-08-10T21:14:00.000-04:002016-08-10T21:14:41.219-04:00Fall 2016 Session Intro To Hand Tools<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Z9_FGFJ1Ag/VyiH1-KcxQI/AAAAAAAALmA/8eZjBr-MQvoKegayGAsW0JN29uSSQRWsgCLcB/s1600/Intro%2BHand%2BTools%2BCollage%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Z9_FGFJ1Ag/VyiH1-KcxQI/AAAAAAAALmA/8eZjBr-MQvoKegayGAsW0JN29uSSQRWsgCLcB/s400/Intro%2BHand%2BTools%2BCollage%2B2.jpg" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Learn how to use these and other hand tools.</span></i><br />
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The Fall 2016 session of my online video course <a href="https://classes.popularwoodworking.com/courses/hand-tools-101">Intro To Hand Tools</a> starts September 16 at <a href="https://classes.popularwoodworking.com/catalog">Popular Woodworking University</a>, the online education component of <i><a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/">Popular Woodworking Magazine</a></i>.<br />
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The course consists of 12 hours of instruction for $59.99. If you'd like to learn how to do everything with hand tools or just add some hand skills to your power tool woodworking, whether you're a new or experienced woodworker, this is for you.<br />
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Why do everything with hand tools when there are perfectly good power tools available? The practical reason is lack of access to power tools or lack of space for them.<br />
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A small hand tool workshop is an excellent option for anyone with limited space, as little as 4'x6'. It can even be portable, with a workbench that folds up to be put aside when not in use.<br />
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The less practical reason is that it's a lot of fun, very satisfying.<br />
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Skills covered include sharpening, rough and fine stock preparation, simple and fine joinery including mortise and tenon and dovetails, and curved work. These are used in furniture making, cabinet making, musical instrument making, boat building, and home building and repair.<br />
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The course runs September 16 through November 16. During this period you can join the online discussion and ask questions. You have unlimited access to the videos during and after the course. You can watch them at your leisure on your schedule as many times as you'd like.<br />
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For a full episode guide, see this blog post: <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2015/07/59-videos-intro-to-hand-tools.html">59 Videos: Intro To Hand Tools</a>.<br />
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This 7-minute video is a free sample lesson on rabbetting excerpted from the longer lesson:</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="242" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/py85sCo8nrI?rel=0" width="431"></iframe><br />
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This 11-minute video is a trailer that I have looping in the background when I do demonstrations (it's silent to avoid disturbing other demonstrators):<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="242" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4eVuM9m-tWQ?rel=0" width="431"></iframe><br />
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To go to the course description and registration page, as well as read reviews from past sessions, click <a href="https://classes.popularwoodworking.com/courses/hand-tools-101">here</a>.</div>
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Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-71673837589696931772016-06-26T12:53:00.003-04:002016-10-01T13:54:23.759-04:00Two Stones And A Strop, part 2<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kb5M2DHSyi4/V3AFfJuaiXI/AAAAAAAAMCM/jbsa038aj28Z0Xbl721TkAerL3pA_s9KgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7164.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kb5M2DHSyi4/V3AFfJuaiXI/AAAAAAAAMCM/jbsa038aj28Z0Xbl721TkAerL3pA_s9KgCKgB/s400/IMG_7164.jpg" /></a>
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;">A selection of guide blocks at specific angles.</span></i><br />
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(Go back to <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/06/two-stones-and-strop.html">part 1</a>)<br />
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Here I'll show how I made the angled guide blocks used when learning the sharpening process.<br />
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I experimented with two different methods. Because these blocks are used as references, you want to make them with precision. Any imprecision in their shaping will translate to imprecision in their use.<br />
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I made these at 19, 23, 25, 28, and 30 degrees, to accommodate my paring chisels, bench chisels, and plane irons. In general, you want about 5 degrees between your primary and secondary bevel guide blocks.<br />
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<b>Layout</b><br />
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The first step for either method is to lay out the angled face on some prepared stock. I used 3/4" pine, 3" wide, with a precisely shot square end. I left the piece long for easy handling.<br />
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Using a protractor, I drew an angled line across the side. This is the bevel angle for the block. I left the front edge flat so that in use, the tip of the block won't get in the way of the tool on the stone.<br />
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I squared one across the end grain, and the other end across the face. Then I connected up the end of both squared lines with an angled line on the other side.<br />
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This outlines a wedge of waste on the end of the piece.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_aOZY-e3nfA/V0yac-B3mbI/AAAAAAAAL7M/ypQwgn4Ukg4YfkrxZlsqzrEBsYgP5rLcQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7099.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_aOZY-e3nfA/V0yac-B3mbI/AAAAAAAAL7M/ypQwgn4Ukg4YfkrxZlsqzrEBsYgP5rLcQCKgB/s400/IMG_7099.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The wedge on the block marked for removal. Note that the front is left flat, I don't want it to come to a sharp point.</span></i><br />
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<b>Freehand Method</b><br />
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The first method is to pare the wedge off with a chisel freehand. Finish off with a bit of careful sanding, similar to sharpening a chisel bevel on sandpaper.<br />
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I used my widest chisel, freshly sharpened so that it sheared off smooth, clean shavings. You can certainly do this with a narrower chisel, but the wider the chisel, the better registration you get across the surface.<br />
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First I relieved the corners working along the grain, to ensure there would be no blowout when I went across the grain. Then I took skewed slicing cuts across the grain, lining up with the block bevel angle.<br />
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As the beveled surface got wider, it got more difficult to cut, so I took lighter cuts. The good news is this provides a wider registration surface.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3b0I-HlclYg/V0yac5_gzFI/AAAAAAAAL7M/PI3Z7vQJeuIFru2mNin_yaN1-Ybzvs8ggCKgB/s1600/IMG_7100.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3b0I-HlclYg/V0yac5_gzFI/AAAAAAAAL7M/PI3Z7vQJeuIFru2mNin_yaN1-Ybzvs8ggCKgB/s400/IMG_7100.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Side view of skewed slicing cut. The piece is held down in the bench hooks with a holdfast.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-idA6IWcApgk/V0yac-PTDuI/AAAAAAAAL7M/yngrMynFvxw0gw4olAuqXUTaNvNTJkJegCKgB/s1600/IMG_7101.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-idA6IWcApgk/V0yac-PTDuI/AAAAAAAAL7M/yngrMynFvxw0gw4olAuqXUTaNvNTJkJegCKgB/s400/IMG_7101.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Front view of cut.</span></i><br />
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I did most of this from one side, then turned the piece around and came in from the other side, just down to the line. I turned it around again and took the remainder from the first side, just down to the line.<br />
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Next, I very carefully pared off little feathers of high spots where the cuts met.<br />
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Then I secured a sheet of coarse sandpaper to the benchtop, and dragged the bevel sideways down it until I had removed the pencil line all around. This took the last of the high spots down, leaving a flat bevel.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iuJu1yJeV7w/V0yac-oob6I/AAAAAAAAL7M/lhQMXAZ7jWMaAJH5qKH6btKckU3YvkvBwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7104.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iuJu1yJeV7w/V0yac-oob6I/AAAAAAAAL7M/lhQMXAZ7jWMaAJH5qKH6btKckU3YvkvBwCKgB/s400/IMG_7104.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Dragging the bevel sideways down a piece of coarse sandpaper. That's the protractor I used for marking out, upper left.</span></i><br />
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Once I had it flat, I cut it to final length and labeled it for the angle.<br />
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<b>Improvised Paring Block Method</b><br />
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This is a method I got from Chris Schwarz' <a href="http://contrib1.wkfinetools.com/cSchwarz/sawBench/sawBench-04.asp">article on building a saw bench</a>. In his article, he does some initial sawing, but this pine pares easily enough that doing it all with the chisel works fine.<br />
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The idea is to use a parallel handscrew as an improvised paring block. After some fiddling around, I found the easiest way to manage this setup was to cut the block down a bit in length, secure the handscrew to the benchtop with a holdfast, then align the piece in it and tighten it up.<br />
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The tightening step is a bit fidgety to get good parallel grip precisely at the lines. But once you do that, the parallel jaws make good registration surfaces for the chisel. Paring flat across them means paring flat across the bevel of the guide block.<br />
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I have a few more pictures of this method, but all of the chisel work shown works with either method.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CSduy5OvXjg/V2WWA7w9tEI/AAAAAAAAMBI/U48YAyIlOtoCaR9PEoJ0GZQeRcPsk1fmQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7232.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CSduy5OvXjg/V2WWA7w9tEI/AAAAAAAAMBI/U48YAyIlOtoCaR9PEoJ0GZQeRcPsk1fmQCKgB/s400/IMG_7232.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The piece secured in the handscrew, the bevel line aligned to the jaws.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zP6M4h9BpsU/V2WWAzkDFVI/AAAAAAAAMBI/obYbFNZKzfgOzq5MdZ9x674RjVdUB82HgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7233.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zP6M4h9BpsU/V2WWAzkDFVI/AAAAAAAAMBI/obYbFNZKzfgOzq5MdZ9x674RjVdUB82HgCKgB/s400/IMG_7233.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Side view, skewed slicing as before.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4UgJj_98CvQ/V2WWA0WrfYI/AAAAAAAAMBI/020Cff2rcNgl7l4CW8vPOlvM-H9SowqJACKgB/s1600/IMG_7234.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4UgJj_98CvQ/V2WWA0WrfYI/AAAAAAAAMBI/020Cff2rcNgl7l4CW8vPOlvM-H9SowqJACKgB/s400/IMG_7234.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Front view of paring.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EBAOCZIE-hw/V2WWA7kwzBI/AAAAAAAAMBI/x4MziyJE7ZUugqg7QT8x4N-WZnAUYEKCwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7235.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EBAOCZIE-hw/V2WWA7kwzBI/AAAAAAAAMBI/x4MziyJE7ZUugqg7QT8x4N-WZnAUYEKCwCKgB/s400/IMG_7235.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Coming in from the other side, down near the line.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DrrukLhYkAY/V2WWA5qxmiI/AAAAAAAAMBI/W9Et4LaBxvEUJjKJvfDRlt5HXJp4D9PcwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7236.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DrrukLhYkAY/V2WWA5qxmiI/AAAAAAAAMBI/W9Et4LaBxvEUJjKJvfDRlt5HXJp4D9PcwCKgB/s400/IMG_7236.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using just the corner to cut diagonally across the bevel.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xe0E3ieq7Ag/V2WWA6JWczI/AAAAAAAAMBI/8kCzEcUpHB8uLWQ4ZmTHIwtUMyMxsISegCKgB/s1600/IMG_7238.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xe0E3ieq7Ag/V2WWA6JWczI/AAAAAAAAMBI/8kCzEcUpHB8uLWQ4ZmTHIwtUMyMxsISegCKgB/s400/IMG_7238.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Slicing diagonally, now registering flat on the clamp jaw.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7kcqE7smnK4/V2WWA8TYbzI/AAAAAAAAMBI/hAnmNZcFlYkdrxVs6t-zp4dcSzq2BmbcQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7239.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7kcqE7smnK4/V2WWA8TYbzI/AAAAAAAAMBI/hAnmNZcFlYkdrxVs6t-zp4dcSzq2BmbcQCKgB/s400/IMG_7239.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Slicing straight across, being careful to remain parallel to the pencil line.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2FB-ruugYO0/V2WWAzC8BOI/AAAAAAAAMBI/KIoaP1SaiJoIg-GZKdinQpOARTUStZmhACKgB/s1600/IMG_7240.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2FB-ruugYO0/V2WWAzC8BOI/AAAAAAAAMBI/KIoaP1SaiJoIg-GZKdinQpOARTUStZmhACKgB/s400/IMG_7240.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Lightly paring the last few feathers.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yZc5WL5gxJU/V2WWA7ZGnqI/AAAAAAAAMBI/9n_aiZ12myYtWwHGCuPneprkbVtDJVT1QCKgB/s1600/IMG_7242.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yZc5WL5gxJU/V2WWA7ZGnqI/AAAAAAAAMBI/9n_aiZ12myYtWwHGCuPneprkbVtDJVT1QCKgB/s400/IMG_7242.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Checking the surface for flatness.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w_m_z7hR4_8/V2WWAxNtPtI/AAAAAAAAMBQ/0pzcgkc-hM4erQ1lDoccIwZB7hBcvbwhACKgB/s1600/IMG_7243.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w_m_z7hR4_8/V2WWAxNtPtI/AAAAAAAAMBQ/0pzcgkc-hM4erQ1lDoccIwZB7hBcvbwhACKgB/s400/IMG_7243.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The final block cut to length and labeled.</span></i><br />
<br />
Both methods seemed to work equally well. The second is a good general-purpose technique to know for making awkward, precisely angled faces.<br />
<br />
(Continue to <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/10/two-stones-and-strop-part-3.html">part 3</a>, how to make the leather sharpening kit)Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-19715483056056566062016-06-26T12:53:00.001-04:002016-10-01T13:56:12.739-04:00Two Stones And A Strop, part 2<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kb5M2DHSyi4/V3AFfJuaiXI/AAAAAAAAMCM/jbsa038aj28Z0Xbl721TkAerL3pA_s9KgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7164.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kb5M2DHSyi4/V3AFfJuaiXI/AAAAAAAAMCM/jbsa038aj28Z0Xbl721TkAerL3pA_s9KgCKgB/s400/IMG_7164.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">A selection of guide blocks at specific angles.</span></i><br />
<br />
(Go back to <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/06/two-stones-and-strop.html">part 1</a>)<br />
<br />
Here I'll show how I made the angled guide blocks used when learning the sharpening process.<br />
<br />
I experimented with two different methods. Because these blocks are used as references, you want to make them with precision. Any imprecision in their shaping will translate to imprecision in their use.<br />
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I made these at 19, 23, 25, 28, and 30 degrees, to accommodate my paring chisels, bench chisels, and plane irons. In general, you want about 5 degrees between your primary and secondary bevel guide blocks.<br />
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<b>Layout</b><br />
<br />
The first step for either method is to lay out the angled face on some prepared stock. I used 3/4" pine, 3" wide, with a precisely shot square end. I left the piece long for easy handling.<br />
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Using a protractor, I drew an angled line across the side. This is the bevel angle for the block. I left the front edge flat so that in use, the tip of the block won't get in the way of the tool on the stone.<br />
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I squared one across the end grain, and the other end across the face. Then I connected up the end of both squared lines with an angled line on the other side.<br />
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This outlines a wedge of waste on the end of the piece.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_aOZY-e3nfA/V0yac-B3mbI/AAAAAAAAL7M/ypQwgn4Ukg4YfkrxZlsqzrEBsYgP5rLcQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7099.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_aOZY-e3nfA/V0yac-B3mbI/AAAAAAAAL7M/ypQwgn4Ukg4YfkrxZlsqzrEBsYgP5rLcQCKgB/s400/IMG_7099.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The wedge on the block marked for removal. Note that the front is left flat, I don't want it to come to a sharp point.</span></i><br />
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<b>Freehand Method</b><br />
<br />
The first method is to pare the wedge off with a chisel freehand. Finish off with a bit of careful sanding, similar to sharpening a chisel bevel on sandpaper.<br />
<br />
I used my widest chisel, freshly sharpened so that it sheared off smooth, clean shavings. You can certainly do this with a narrower chisel, but the wider the chisel, the better registration you get across the surface.<br />
<br />
First I relieved the corners working along the grain, to ensure there would be no blowout when I went across the grain. Then I took skewed slicing cuts across the grain, lining up with the block bevel angle.<br />
<br />
As the beveled surface got wider, it got more difficult to cut, so I took lighter cuts. The good news is this provides a wider registration surface.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3b0I-HlclYg/V0yac5_gzFI/AAAAAAAAL7M/PI3Z7vQJeuIFru2mNin_yaN1-Ybzvs8ggCKgB/s1600/IMG_7100.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3b0I-HlclYg/V0yac5_gzFI/AAAAAAAAL7M/PI3Z7vQJeuIFru2mNin_yaN1-Ybzvs8ggCKgB/s400/IMG_7100.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Side view of skewed slicing cut. The piece is held down in the bench hooks with a holdfast.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-idA6IWcApgk/V0yac-PTDuI/AAAAAAAAL7M/yngrMynFvxw0gw4olAuqXUTaNvNTJkJegCKgB/s1600/IMG_7101.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-idA6IWcApgk/V0yac-PTDuI/AAAAAAAAL7M/yngrMynFvxw0gw4olAuqXUTaNvNTJkJegCKgB/s400/IMG_7101.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Front view of cut.</span></i><br />
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I did most of this from one side, then turned the piece around and came in from the other side, just down to the line. I turned it around again and took the remainder from the first side, just down to the line.<br />
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Next, I very carefully pared off little feathers of high spots where the cuts met.<br />
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Then I secured a sheet of coarse sandpaper to the benchtop, and dragged the bevel sideways down it until I had removed the pencil line all around. This took the last of the high spots down, leaving a flat bevel.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iuJu1yJeV7w/V0yac-oob6I/AAAAAAAAL7M/lhQMXAZ7jWMaAJH5qKH6btKckU3YvkvBwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7104.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iuJu1yJeV7w/V0yac-oob6I/AAAAAAAAL7M/lhQMXAZ7jWMaAJH5qKH6btKckU3YvkvBwCKgB/s400/IMG_7104.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Dragging the bevel sideways down a piece of coarse sandpaper. That's the protractor I used for marking out, upper left.</span></i><br />
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Once I had it flat, I cut it to final length and labeled it for the angle.<br />
<br />
<b>Improvised Paring Block Method</b><br />
<br />
This is a method I got from Chris Schwarz' <a href="http://contrib1.wkfinetools.com/cSchwarz/sawBench/sawBench-04.asp">article on building a saw bench</a>. In his article, he does some initial sawing, but this pine pares easily enough that doing it all with the chisel works fine.<br />
<br />
The idea is to use a parallel handscrew as an improvised paring block. After some fiddling around, I found the easiest way to manage this setup was to cut the block down a bit in length, secure the handscrew to the benchtop with a holdfast, then align the piece in it and tighten it up.<br />
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The tightening step is a bit fidgety to get good parallel grip precisely at the lines. But once you do that, the parallel jaws make good registration surfaces for the chisel. Paring flat across them means paring flat across the bevel of the guide block.<br />
<br />
I have a few more pictures of this method, but all of the chisel work shown works with either method.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CSduy5OvXjg/V2WWA7w9tEI/AAAAAAAAMBI/U48YAyIlOtoCaR9PEoJ0GZQeRcPsk1fmQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7232.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CSduy5OvXjg/V2WWA7w9tEI/AAAAAAAAMBI/U48YAyIlOtoCaR9PEoJ0GZQeRcPsk1fmQCKgB/s400/IMG_7232.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The piece secured in the handscrew, the bevel line aligned to the jaws.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zP6M4h9BpsU/V2WWAzkDFVI/AAAAAAAAMBI/obYbFNZKzfgOzq5MdZ9x674RjVdUB82HgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7233.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zP6M4h9BpsU/V2WWAzkDFVI/AAAAAAAAMBI/obYbFNZKzfgOzq5MdZ9x674RjVdUB82HgCKgB/s400/IMG_7233.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Side view, skewed slicing as before.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4UgJj_98CvQ/V2WWA0WrfYI/AAAAAAAAMBI/020Cff2rcNgl7l4CW8vPOlvM-H9SowqJACKgB/s1600/IMG_7234.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4UgJj_98CvQ/V2WWA0WrfYI/AAAAAAAAMBI/020Cff2rcNgl7l4CW8vPOlvM-H9SowqJACKgB/s400/IMG_7234.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Front view of paring.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EBAOCZIE-hw/V2WWA7kwzBI/AAAAAAAAMBI/x4MziyJE7ZUugqg7QT8x4N-WZnAUYEKCwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7235.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EBAOCZIE-hw/V2WWA7kwzBI/AAAAAAAAMBI/x4MziyJE7ZUugqg7QT8x4N-WZnAUYEKCwCKgB/s400/IMG_7235.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Coming in from the other side, down near the line.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DrrukLhYkAY/V2WWA5qxmiI/AAAAAAAAMBI/W9Et4LaBxvEUJjKJvfDRlt5HXJp4D9PcwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7236.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DrrukLhYkAY/V2WWA5qxmiI/AAAAAAAAMBI/W9Et4LaBxvEUJjKJvfDRlt5HXJp4D9PcwCKgB/s400/IMG_7236.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using just the corner to cut diagonally across the bevel.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xe0E3ieq7Ag/V2WWA6JWczI/AAAAAAAAMBI/8kCzEcUpHB8uLWQ4ZmTHIwtUMyMxsISegCKgB/s1600/IMG_7238.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xe0E3ieq7Ag/V2WWA6JWczI/AAAAAAAAMBI/8kCzEcUpHB8uLWQ4ZmTHIwtUMyMxsISegCKgB/s400/IMG_7238.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Slicing diagonally, now registering flat on the clamp jaw.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7kcqE7smnK4/V2WWA8TYbzI/AAAAAAAAMBI/hAnmNZcFlYkdrxVs6t-zp4dcSzq2BmbcQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7239.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7kcqE7smnK4/V2WWA8TYbzI/AAAAAAAAMBI/hAnmNZcFlYkdrxVs6t-zp4dcSzq2BmbcQCKgB/s400/IMG_7239.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Slicing straight across, being careful to remain parallel to the pencil line.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2FB-ruugYO0/V2WWAzC8BOI/AAAAAAAAMBI/KIoaP1SaiJoIg-GZKdinQpOARTUStZmhACKgB/s1600/IMG_7240.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2FB-ruugYO0/V2WWAzC8BOI/AAAAAAAAMBI/KIoaP1SaiJoIg-GZKdinQpOARTUStZmhACKgB/s400/IMG_7240.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Lightly paring the last few feathers.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yZc5WL5gxJU/V2WWA7ZGnqI/AAAAAAAAMBI/9n_aiZ12myYtWwHGCuPneprkbVtDJVT1QCKgB/s1600/IMG_7242.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yZc5WL5gxJU/V2WWA7ZGnqI/AAAAAAAAMBI/9n_aiZ12myYtWwHGCuPneprkbVtDJVT1QCKgB/s400/IMG_7242.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Checking the surface for flatness.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w_m_z7hR4_8/V2WWAxNtPtI/AAAAAAAAMBQ/0pzcgkc-hM4erQ1lDoccIwZB7hBcvbwhACKgB/s1600/IMG_7243.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w_m_z7hR4_8/V2WWAxNtPtI/AAAAAAAAMBQ/0pzcgkc-hM4erQ1lDoccIwZB7hBcvbwhACKgB/s400/IMG_7243.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The final block cut to length and labeled.</span></i><br />
<br />
Both methods seemed to work equally well. The second is a good general-purpose technique to know for making awkward, precisely angled faces.<br />
<br />
(Continue to <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/10/two-stones-and-strop-part-3.html">part 3</a>, how to make the leather sharpening kit)Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-58780484158857008332016-06-18T12:41:00.000-04:002016-06-22T18:31:05.518-04:00GNHW And LCM Demos June 2016<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ooszpyzQDRw/V2VN7LCWMHI/AAAAAAAAL_E/s-wKU41F1SgE9xoqYeOLs_ESQUCuRabHwCKgB/s1600/IMG_6169.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ooszpyzQDRw/V2VN7LCWMHI/AAAAAAAAL_E/s-wKU41F1SgE9xoqYeOLs_ESQUCuRabHwCKgB/s540/IMG_6169.JPG" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">My friend Gary Hicks trying out one of Mike Mahar's guitars. Guitars by Terry Moore and Alan Carruth behind him.</span></i><br />
<br />
This past week I had two demos, the first with the <a href="https://gnhw.org/">Guild Of New Hampshire Woodworkers</a> Granite State Luthiers group, at the Portsmouth, NH Woodcraft store, and the second with <a href="http://www.lcmakers.com/">Littleton Common Makers</a> at the Littleton, MA Littleton Third Thursday summer evening event.<br />
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<b>GNHW Demo</b><br />
<br />
At Woodcraft this past Saturday, <a href="http://terrymoore-furniture.com/">Terry Moore</a> demonstrated guitar neck carving, Jeb Hooker demonstrated bracing glue-ups with a go-bar deck, <a href="http://www.alcarruthluthier.com/">Alan Carruth</a> demonstrated rosette-making, and Mike Mahar demonstrated bending. Mark Sedutto and Adam Bahrami joined in to play instruments.<br />
<br />
There were other demonstrations as well. Jim Forbes and Eric Swindell took turns on the lathe, and Craig Brown demonstrated scrollsaw work.<br />
<br />
I completely forgot to take pictures, but fortunately my wife was there with our friend guitarist Gary Hicks, so she got a few phone pictures. Unfortunately, we didn't get shots of Terry's great neck holding jig or Jeb's amazing go-bar deck. You can see a similar commercial deck <a href="http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Go-Bar_System/Go-bar_Clamping_System_For_modern_guitar.html">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7_4Sr_Hsi4/V2VN7G9be8I/AAAAAAAAL-Q/qhyZrtCusLQ5-WVLPPYMcuufVW-0DB68QCKgB/s1600/IMG_6216.PNG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7_4Sr_Hsi4/V2VN7G9be8I/AAAAAAAAL-Q/qhyZrtCusLQ5-WVLPPYMcuufVW-0DB68QCKgB/s680/IMG_6216.PNG" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Closeup of Alan Carruth's beautiful inlaid arch-top guitar.</span></i><br />
<br />
Another interesting thing Jeb had was a not-yet-finished guitar with an adjustable neck, for adjusting the action, the string height off the neck. This compensates for changes in temperature, humidity, and playing style without affecting the tuning.<br />
<br />
He's in the process of receiving a patent for this design, which should issue any day now. You can see the patent application <a href="http://www.patentsencyclopedia.com/app/20160027415">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L2beILAND10/V2VN7HpvoLI/AAAAAAAAL_E/K-sAUdSMYHc8xsv55-pm4uvAYsg9bs24QCKgB/s1600/IMG_6171.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L2beILAND10/V2VN7HpvoLI/AAAAAAAAL_E/K-sAUdSMYHc8xsv55-pm4uvAYsg9bs24QCKgB/s480/IMG_6171.JPG" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Gary playing Jeb Hooker's adjustable neck guitar.</span></i><br />
<br />
I was demonstrating sharpening, so I had one Roy Underhill <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2010/08/portable-workbench.html">portable workbench</a> setup with three sharpening systems, two types of waterstones and one of diamond plates, and another bench with my folding leather sharpening kit with India stones, all configured for the <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/06/two-stones-and-strop.html">two stones and a strop</a> method, along with a piece of marble floor tile and sandpaper for back preparation.<br />
<br />
I also had a saw vise, scraper sharpening using Terry's method, and my version of Yoav Liberman's <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/make-convex-sharpening-forms-for-round-edge-tools">custom sandpaper slips</a> for gouges. He dealt with the concave side of the tool, my addition was to do the opposite shape on the other edge of the slip for the convex side.<br />
<br />
This works well for in-cannel scribing gouges as well as regular out-cannel carving gouges, and proved to be a popular topic among the carvers and violin-makers who stopped by.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SuB3ebf6ofc/V2VN7PDXEkI/AAAAAAAAL_E/ZJ6wjAX63AMuNDVPn0LbjLoxxPU4HJUIACKgB/s1600/IMG_6173.PNG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SuB3ebf6ofc/V2VN7PDXEkI/AAAAAAAAL_E/ZJ6wjAX63AMuNDVPn0LbjLoxxPU4HJUIACKgB/s480/IMG_6173.PNG" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Mark Sedutto, left, talking with me about saw sharpening.</span></i><br />
<br />
<b>LCM Demo</b><br />
<br />
In Littleton on Thurday evening, Faisal Mohammed and I setup a booth for <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/01/littleton-common-makers-now-open.html">Littleton Common Makers</a>, his makerspace in the old mill building. This is where I now teach <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/p/hand-tool-instruction.html">private classes</a> and run my Wednesday night <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/p/for-veterans.html">free classes for veterans</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://periodcraftsmen.com/period-furniture.html">Freddy Roman</a>, whose shop is in the same mill building, stopped by to say hello. He really liked my sharpening process, so I gave him a demo.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SmKwGjdqdeo/V2VOJqPgM1I/AAAAAAAAL-c/LbT3pauuQ5YNQQSpbfwTSBUxVLeMPMmlACKgB/s1600/IMG_20160616_164638595_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SmKwGjdqdeo/V2VOJqPgM1I/AAAAAAAAL-c/LbT3pauuQ5YNQQSpbfwTSBUxVLeMPMmlACKgB/s400/IMG_20160616_164638595_HDR.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">At the LCM booth, Faisal examines the image on his laptop from a digital microscope, getting a closeup of part of his robot.</span></i><br />
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />
Faisal and other LCM members work on electronics and robotics, using high-tech 3D printers and laser cutters. With my <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2011/07/building-moxon-double-screw-vise.html">Moxon vise</a> and holdfasts for hand tool woodworking, we span some 500 years of technology!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I4TBHPruLas/V2VOJiWcl6I/AAAAAAAAL-8/6uzGXkWtcvEyE2sYEahmswz-xAG11H0iwCKgB/s1600/IMG_20160616_164705936.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I4TBHPruLas/V2VOJiWcl6I/AAAAAAAAL-8/6uzGXkWtcvEyE2sYEahmswz-xAG11H0iwCKgB/s500/IMG_20160616_164705936.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">My workbenches, with my new Japanese toolboxes standing on end as portable tool cabinets.</span></i><br />
<br />
I've been madly working on getting these Japanese toolboxes built and fitted out so that I'll have four of them ready for the <a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/hand-tool-events/USA/109">Lie-Nielsen Open House</a> in July.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CU7UUyb3Fa4/V2VUWpgN-3I/AAAAAAAAL_w/Mo5Xlp5Lgd44QvRWeLJnAiZrCd-c-dMEQCKgB/s1600/IMG_20160616_164705936.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CU7UUyb3Fa4/V2VUWpgN-3I/AAAAAAAAL_w/Mo5Xlp5Lgd44QvRWeLJnAiZrCd-c-dMEQCKgB/s420/IMG_20160616_164705936.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Closeup of the toolboxes. You can see the loops of leather thong I use to pull the tills forward.</span></i><br />
<br />
They make a great modular system for transporting and using tools. Closed up, they stack on a dolly, and each individual box can be lifted in and out of my van and carried up and down stairs without breaking my back. Standing on end, with the end of the loose fitted till pulled forward to a slope, they make an instant tool cabinet for display and storage while working.<br />
<br />
My original concept was to stand them up two-over-two. Four is enough to carry a pretty complete workshop except for full-size handsaws, the two shown here, plus one for chisels, measuring, and marking, etc., and one for bench appliances.<br />
<br />
However, I discovered that I needed a lower slope angle in order to keep the shoulder and moulding planes from tipping out. Setting the front edge of the boxes on a strip of 3/4" wood did the trick.<br />
<br />
This turned out to fit very well in the tool well of one of the benches, which has room for three boxes. I'll just put the fourth box with the bench appliances under the bench.<br />
<br />
Fitting these out is an exercise in puzzle-making. I also ended up needing a spacer in the second box for the till to rest on, so that the moulding planes would clear the front cleat.<br />
<br />
Not the <a href="https://lostartpress.com/products/virtuoso">Studley tool cabinet</a> by any means, but a practical poor-man's approximation.Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3554186870925500720.post-61926841828260139662016-06-12T17:09:00.000-04:002016-08-19T13:24:17.298-04:00Two Stones And A Strop<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4dRNxGjm2RA/V0yac0LFtrI/AAAAAAAAL6M/4Fcl3EA5DAA5VGzfiD-vqtRT7dJcsOabwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7169.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4dRNxGjm2RA/V0yac0LFtrI/AAAAAAAAL6M/4Fcl3EA5DAA5VGzfiD-vqtRT7dJcsOabwCKgB/s400/IMG_7169.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">A newly-made leather fold-up sharpening kit, setup and ready for use.</span></i><br />
<br />
Two stones and a strop walk into a bar. The bartender says, "Oh great, do we really need another story about sharpening?"<br />
<br />
But after watching the video below, he says, "Yes we do!" Because the punchline is that's all you need to get a tool razor sharp in seconds.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="242" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZUbIy-xXagE?rel=0" width="431"></iframe><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">This video shows the method in action. For details, including how to make the sharpening kit, read on below.</span></i><br />
<br />
So roll your eyes and bear with me! But this is a great method for beginner and experienced woodworker alike.<br />
<br />
<b>Credit To Charles Hayward</b><br />
<br />
This method is based on reading the first chapter in the new compilation from Christopher Schwarz and the folks at Lost Art Press, <a href="https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/the-woodworker-the-charles-hayward-years"><i>The Woodworker: The Charles H. Hayward Years</i></a>. This is a spectacular set, an invaluable resource.<br />
<br />
Hayward was editor of <i>The Woodworker</i> magazine from 1939 to 1967. He covered a period when hand tool use was still widely practiced in the British trades. Many of the articles were written by working tradesmen with decades of experience. Hayward himself was superbly skilled.<br />
<br />
These were people worth listening to. You can just picture these practical, no-nonsense craftsmen who needed to get a job done efficiently, no messing about, because time was money, and mistakes meant docked pay and rework. They did this stuff every day for a living.<br />
<br />
That's no less true for today's professionals. Things are more relaxed for those of us who are hobbyists, but we can certainly benefit from their experience and methods.<br />
<br />
Sharp tools were the key. The articles in Chapter 1 cover sharpening from several different authors. While there are some differences, there are a number of common points. They needed to get a good sharp tool quickly and get back to work, because sharpening time was overhead time. What struck me most was the simplicity in their process.<br />
<br />
I've distilled that information and combined it with what I've learned from other sources, my own experience and learning curve, and what I've observed when teaching others how to sharpen. So while this my interpretation and presentation, it is consistent with the book.<br />
<br />
This is going back to fundamentals. What's old is new again. Again.<br />
<br />
Now, I know Chris also has a DVD called <i>The Last Word On Sharpening</i>, and it was his articles on sharpening in <i>Popular Woodworking</i> that first allowed me to achieve a sharp tool. But really, the last word won't happen until they pry the chisel from the last woodworker's cold, dead hands.<br />
<br />
<b><u>The Fundamentals</u></b><br />
<br />
<div>
For bevel-down plane irons and bench chisels, the bevel angle at the cutting edge is 30 degrees. For paring chisels, the angle is 25 degrees. Other specialty irons and chisels may have other angles.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Sharpening consists of 3 steps:<br />
<ul>
<li>Grinding</li>
<li>Honing</li>
<li>Polishing</li>
</ul>
<div>
<b>Grinding</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Grinding takes place on a coarse stone, at 5 degrees less than the cutting edge angle. This is known as the primary bevel. Because the bevel for the cutting edge is formed after the primary, it is known as the secondary bevel.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Grinding has one purpose: to remove metal to make honing easier. All other considerations are secondary. It doesn't matter how flat the primary bevel is, how rough or smooth it is, or how precisely angled it is. As long as it removes metal adequately, it's sufficient. At this coarse stage, speed is what counts.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It also doesn't go all the way to the edge. It goes close to the edge, about 1/32" away from it. By stopping short, you don't waste metal or effort unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
Because grinding is on a fast-cutting coarse stone, it's fast and easy, even though the primary bevel is a large surface area.</div>
<div>
<br />
<b>Honing</b><br />
<br />
Honing takes place on a fine stone, at the cutting edge angle, forming the secondary bevel.<br />
<br />
Honing is where things get critical. This is where you produce the actual cutting edge. At this fine stage, precision is what counts.<br />
<br />
Honing forms a burr, or wire edge, where the thinned metal flaps up. If you don't have a burr all across the edge of the tool, you need to continue honing until you do. The presence of a burr confirms that you've actually reached the edge. But as soon as you have a full-width burr, stop.<br />
<br />
Because grinding has removed the bulk of the metal, leaving only a small surface area for the secondary bevel, honing is fast and easy, even though it's on a slower-cutting fine stone.</div>
<br />
<b>Polishing</b><br />
<br />
Polishing takes place on a leather strop charged with compound, at the cutting edge angle, refining the secondary bevel and removing the burr. That last part is especially important, since even the finest stone will leave some burr behind.<br />
<br />
This polishes the faces of the secondary bevel and the back of the tool. It wears off the burr and polishes out the microscopically jagged edge left behind where bevel and back meet. A polished surface meeting a polished surface intersects at a line to form what Ron Hock calls a <i>zero-radius edge</i>.<br />
<br />
Burr removal can be accelerated by running the edge across the fibers of a piece of wood. You can also remove it by folding it back and forth with your thumb or across the palm of you hand carefully.<br />
<br />
<b>Back Preparation</b><br />
<br />
This assumes that you've separately polished the back of the tool to remove all traces of machine marks. The back should be at a near-mirror polish before sharpening.<br />
<br />
Don't obsess over slight low spots over the length of the tool, apparent as unpolished regions, just be sure the last half inch or so is flat and polished. Because the back is an enormous surface area, the amount of work required to get it absolutely flat with no low spots rapidly approaches diminishing returns and is not worthwhile.<br />
<br />
The polishing step in sharpening refines the back at the edge and polishes off the burr remnants. Over the life of the tool, as it get shorter and your sharpening approaches any low spots in the back, you'll hone and polish them out bit by bit.<br />
<br />
<b>Repeat</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
When the tool is dull, repeat the entire 3-step process. By going through it all each time, the primary and secondary bevel are maintained in relative proportion, ensuring that each one is easy to restore.<br />
<br />
Once you condition the tool initially to establish that profile, you'll always have existing primary and secondary bevels when you resharpen. Resharpening then establishes new primary and secondary bevels after removing just a thin layer of metal from each one.<br />
<br />
An alternative approach is to only resharpen the secondary bevel, so that it grows over several resharpenings until you need to re-establish the primary bevel. The one drawback to this is that it makes the amount of honing required each time variable. Part of the simplicity here is in avoiding variability.<br />
<br />
With this latter approach, the two bevels chase each other up and down the end of the tool over time, the demarcation line between them moving up until the primary bevel is almost gone, then down until the secondary bevel is almost gone.<br />
<br />
Either way, just don't wait until the tool gets so dull that it needs a major resharpening job. It's tempting to keep using the tool as you remain focused on a task, but the work will go better if you take a quick sharpening break whenever needed.<br />
<br />
Sometimes just a few licks on the strop are sufficient to tune up the edge.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Two Stones And A Strop</b><br />
<br />
In these 3 steps, you can see the 3 abrasives needed: coarse stone, fine stone, and strop. While the book talks about oilstones, this method works with any modern abrasive: diamond plates, pre-soak waterstones, non-soak ceramic waterstones, sandpaper, etc.<br />
<br />
The one major deviation I've taken from the book is in the use of a third stone before stropping. Several of the articles state that you can optionally hone further on an Arkansas stone if you have one, after removing the burr on a piece of wood.<br />
<br />
I've opted not to include that third stone, because I found that it didn't improve the results I got from the other stones followed by the strop. That may be simply be a matter of my technique, so if you have one, it doesn't hurt to try it. See which option gives you the best results.<br />
<br />
If a third stone doesn't offer noticeable improvement, it's an unnecessary complication. For me, the great value value in this system is spectacular results from breathtaking simplicity.<br />
<br />
Is this the "best sharpening method"? I'll merely claim that it's simple, fast, and effective. I'll let others argue over how many angels can dance on a zero-radius edge. Meanwhile I'm getting back to woodworking.<br />
<br />
<b><u>The Process</u></b><br />
<br />
I'll start using a simple shop-made portable sharpening kit. Portability is one of the other benefits of simplicity. I don't need to drag a lot of stuff around with me, and it stashes easily into a toolbox.<br />
<br />
The kit consists of a leather fold-up case with wooden stone holders and a strop bonded to it, and a small Japanese toolbox matched to its size to hold the assorted items used in sharpening. I'll show how to make these in subsequent parts.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--t780Usx5IA/V0yac_j595I/AAAAAAAAL6M/44YAjgJ_g7sWMd7ptrWaGgtXVdllWfYtwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7161.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--t780Usx5IA/V0yac_j595I/AAAAAAAAL6M/44YAjgJ_g7sWMd7ptrWaGgtXVdllWfYtwCKgB/s400/IMG_7161.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The leather case folded up, and matching Japanese toolbox.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KCRgKoo308g/V0yacz19ufI/AAAAAAAAL6M/IbcUEw2jGI0G1CuAUZ1rvirTQexdA0xxQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7164.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KCRgKoo308g/V0yacz19ufI/AAAAAAAAL6M/IbcUEw2jGI0G1CuAUZ1rvirTQexdA0xxQCKgB/s400/IMG_7164.jpg" /></a>
<br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The contents of the toolbox, for sharpening chisels, plane and spokeshave irons, scrapers, and saws. This photo is missing the 20 degree guide block and a sawset. I've shortened the </span></i><i><span style="color: #274e13;">bar clamp </span></i><i><span style="color: #274e13;">handle ends to make them fit more easily.</span></i><br />
<br />
I use oilstones in the kit. I'll also show photos of other sharpening media. The process is exactly the same regardless: coarse stone, fine stone, and strop.<br />
<br />
<b>Mistakes</b><br />
<br />
I show people how to use both convex bevel method and double-bevel method and let them choose whichever they prefer. I've been using a visual guide block for setting the tool to the right angle.<br />
<br />
Convex bevel requires starting at this angle on the forward stroke, and returning to this angle on the backward stroke. Double-bevel requires maintaining this angle throughout the forward and backward strokes.<br />
<br />
The primary mistake I've observed people make is judging angle, both at the start and on the return stroke. They may have difficulty aligning to the block initially, or difficulty knowing where to return to. The result can be an angle that's too high or too low by a good 5 degrees.<br />
<br />
Too high an angle produces an obtuse edge that may be sharp but doesn't cut easily. Too low an angle means the sharpening doesn't actually reach the edge, it only sharpens somewhere behind the edge.<br />
<br />
The other mistake I've observed is in the number of stokes. Too few strokes results in insufficient removal of metal. Too many strokes is unnecessarily wasted metal and effort, producing a large flap of burr that takes longer to remove and polish out.<br />
<br />
To address the first issue, I've changed to a different type of guide block that gives you positive registration both at the start and the at the return.<br />
<br />
In addition to 25 and 30 degree blocks for flat plane irons, I've made 23 and 28 degree blocks for chisels that are tapered in thickness. The 2-degree difference offsets the angle of the taper so that the back of the chisel is at 25 or 30 degrees relative to the sharpening stone. I also have a 19 degree block for grinding tapered paring chisels, which will be honed to 25 degrees.<br />
<br />
The key thing about these is that while using them, you're training your hands to recognize specific angles. Eventually, like a violinist putting his hands on the strings at some specific point on the neck with nothing to guide him, you will be able to simply pick up the tool, put it on the stone, and set it to the right angle with nothing to guide you. This may take you 10, 20, or 50 sharpenings to achieve.<br />
<br />
These two photos show how to use the guide blocks, here at the honing stage on a combination India stone. I hold the block with my thumb as I snug up the tool to the slope and just slide it down to contact the stone. The second photo especially shows what I mean when I say that the only purpose for grinding is to remove metal to leave a small surface for honing.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mURhb2NF_cg/V0yac9rCYQI/AAAAAAAAL64/qWT9Rp782n0Tc5AhuFYW4sNtuFX-_7SqwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7224.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mURhb2NF_cg/V0yac9rCYQI/AAAAAAAAL64/qWT9Rp782n0Tc5AhuFYW4sNtuFX-_7SqwCKgB/s400/IMG_7224.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Aligning for honing.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eH-_XrrK8SU/V0yac3yocsI/AAAAAAAAL64/OPhBlgd3D1UcJ1EBTaT54uML0FpFp_e2ACKgB/s1600/IMG_7223.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eH-_XrrK8SU/V0yac3yocsI/AAAAAAAAL64/OPhBlgd3D1UcJ1EBTaT54uML0FpFp_e2ACKgB/s400/IMG_7223.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Closeup: note the gap formed by the primary bevel, leaving just the edge touching the stone to hone the secondary bevel.</span></i><br />
<br />
To address the second issue, I count strokes. This requires a calibration stage where you test your specific stones with your specific tools to determine how many strokes are necessary. I'll come back to that after I show how to sharpen.<br />
<br />
<b>Grinding</b><br />
<br />
I'll start with a tapered chisel. I'm using Norton coarse and fine India stones in my leather case, and Flexcut Gold compound on my strop.<br />
<br />
As you can see in the opening photo above, the case is clamped to the bench with a couple of small bar clamps. The heavy leather is stiff enough that this holds everything in place.<br />
<br />
I set the 23 and 28 degree guide blocks at the near end of the coarse and fine stones and spread some mineral oil on the stones. The guide blocks make good oil spreaders.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SosblEoxU_M/V0yac_fo2zI/AAAAAAAAL6M/EpWrBgz9Gro6ubsADO7cj8sMzQ_K-OtUwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7173.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SosblEoxU_M/V0yac_fo2zI/AAAAAAAAL6M/EpWrBgz9Gro6ubsADO7cj8sMzQ_K-OtUwCKgB/s400/IMG_7173.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Spreading oil on the coarse stone, using the guide block as a spatula.</span></i><br />
<br />
I set the top face of the chisel flat on the 23 degree guide block bevel and slide it down until the existing primary bevel contacts the stone. Note that because of the existing secondary bevel, the very end of the chisel does not contact the stone.<br />
<br />
This establishes the tool at the primary bevel angle.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RUxD34BxbqU/V0yac7XUoUI/AAAAAAAAL6M/xw-TUjkUcxEBh5w_jMczn6twyaSSnswcwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7174.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RUxD34BxbqU/V0yac7XUoUI/AAAAAAAAL6M/xw-TUjkUcxEBh5w_jMczn6twyaSSnswcwCKgB/s400/IMG_7174.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Lay the chisel bevel down and flat on the guide block and slide it down to the stone.</span></i><br />
<br />
I slide the tool forward and back while maintaing this angle. But remember that this is grinding, so the angle isn't critical. The key is that it's lower than the secondary bevel angle.<br />
<br />
I count out 10 round-trip strokes. Why 10? I've calibrated this process on my stones and found that 10 reliably provides a sufficient grind. Maybe I could get by with 7 or 8, but I like to allow some margin for variability. This covers all my antique tools and my modern O-1 and A-2 tools; some just may be slightly more or less ground than others.<br />
<br />
As with any sharpening method, make sure you walk the strokes sideways across the surface of the stone for even wear. Otherwise over time you'll wear a distinct low spot in the stone. The good news is that an unevenly-worn coarse stone will still produce an adequate grinding, it just may not do as pretty a job as a perfectly flat stone.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GeqWIVqkOGE/V0yac410zvI/AAAAAAAAL6M/kRcHQ8LntHcFS-bj4zWTfo2xeI0QPJi8QCKgB/s1600/IMG_7175.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GeqWIVqkOGE/V0yac410zvI/AAAAAAAAL6M/kRcHQ8LntHcFS-bj4zWTfo2xeI0QPJi8QCKgB/s400/IMG_7175.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Maintain the angle reasonably forward and back throughout the stroke.</span></i><br />
<br />
If you like, you can angle the guide block at 45 degrees across the stone and align the tool to that. If you're sharpening a plane iron that's wider than the stone, this allows you to keep the entire width in contact with the stone.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oZTH33G_-GU/V0yac0RG0GI/AAAAAAAAL6M/O7t5idOaXmQnK8x03VIPlNzVgU3qEuoKwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7176.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oZTH33G_-GU/V0yac0RG0GI/AAAAAAAAL6M/O7t5idOaXmQnK8x03VIPlNzVgU3qEuoKwCKgB/s400/IMG_7176.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Alternative holding method: the guide block angled across the stone.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cPQ8bMqrB7g/V0yac6PCkyI/AAAAAAAAL6M/s5MOdHcymFQOIb5c5irEdc3vFQHjGvl_gCKgB/s1600/IMG_7177.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cPQ8bMqrB7g/V0yac6PCkyI/AAAAAAAAL6M/s5MOdHcymFQOIb5c5irEdc3vFQHjGvl_gCKgB/s400/IMG_7177.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The strokes are the same, except that the tool is diagonal as it moves up and down the stone.</span></i><br />
<br />
These strokes produce a new slightly convex primary bevel that comes to within 1/32" of the edge, shortening the existing secondary bevel. But only a thin layer of metal has been ground away.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2AEOJ24pSjA/V0yacx117RI/AAAAAAAAL7A/Y0CmJ0w-evgISJFvc8Sb-eMph5kgNzP_QCKgB/s1600/IMG_7186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2AEOJ24pSjA/V0yacx117RI/AAAAAAAAL7A/Y0CmJ0w-evgISJFvc8Sb-eMph5kgNzP_QCKgB/s400/IMG_7186.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">While difficult to photograph, this shows the new primary bevel coming close to the edge. You can just see the remaining secondary bevel in the different reflection along the edge.</span></i><br />
<br />
<b>Honing</b><br />
<br />
The honing process is virtually identical, using the 28 degree block on the fine stone. The only difference is that now the existing secondary bevel contacts the stone, which means the edge contacts the stone.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IMy4RbBzRr8/V0yac5wuL_I/AAAAAAAAL6M/8kB3UUFqAj0A-pc36iyHT9em9JLPBFQxQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7178.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IMy4RbBzRr8/V0yac5wuL_I/AAAAAAAAL6M/8kB3UUFqAj0A-pc36iyHT9em9JLPBFQxQCKgB/s400/IMG_7178.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Lay the chisel bevel down and flat on the guide block and slide it down so the edge contacts the stone.</span></i><br />
<br />
As before, I slide the tool forward and back while maintaing this angle. Here on the secondary bevel the angle is more critical. However, we know from the convex bevel method that as long as you don't raise it any higher when you draw back, you'll get the desired angle at the cutting edge.<br />
<br />
You'll most likely end up with a very slightly convex secondary bevel. If you prefer to keep it flat, concentrate on holding your arms fixed as you rock your body forward and back. Tucking your elbows into your body helps keep your arms in place.<br />
<br />
But as a practical matter, the secondary bevel is so small, and the convexity so slight, that there's no need to obsess over it.<br />
<br />
Again, I count out 10 round-trip strokes. Why 10? Same story as before. This is sufficient to reliably produce a small burr with all my tools on these stones.<br />
<br />
Also again, make sure to walk the strokes sideways for even wear on the stone. With this stone, that's much more critical than it was on the coarse stone, because this is the surface that shapes your cutting edge.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-64TMRInxqRE/V0yac19izUI/AAAAAAAAL7A/LH0VRGA64ooaJhm-GE-qj1IQa2V-It53gCKgB/s1600/IMG_7179.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-64TMRInxqRE/V0yac19izUI/AAAAAAAAL7A/LH0VRGA64ooaJhm-GE-qj1IQa2V-It53gCKgB/s400/IMG_7179.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">10 strokes on the edge while maintaining the angle.</span></i><br />
<br />
Or you can use the alternate orientation of the guide block at 45 degrees across the stone.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ueOWXPd9bNw/V0yac5-lbnI/AAAAAAAAL7A/4E3X8AGgq_wFeNpVFU5MlT1SO_l8Hx7wQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7180.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ueOWXPd9bNw/V0yac5-lbnI/AAAAAAAAL7A/4E3X8AGgq_wFeNpVFU5MlT1SO_l8Hx7wQCKgB/s400/IMG_7180.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Aligning the alternate hold with the block at 45 degrees across the stone.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fm35AZy114A/V0yac3eBn0I/AAAAAAAAL7A/T1DoaxKhaG08mUBsfJW4D9xzuhhAo4RmACKgB/s1600/IMG_7181.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fm35AZy114A/V0yac3eBn0I/AAAAAAAAL7A/T1DoaxKhaG08mUBsfJW4D9xzuhhAo4RmACKgB/s400/IMG_7181.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">10 strokes with the edge oriented diagonally across the stone.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K74nvYs2nWU/V0yac8ct3_I/AAAAAAAAL7A/n9F6CFP3vNYUIpr24HSkxbVOrk-7FcW7gCKgB/s1600/IMG_7188.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K74nvYs2nWU/V0yac8ct3_I/AAAAAAAAL7A/n9F6CFP3vNYUIpr24HSkxbVOrk-7FcW7gCKgB/s400/IMG_7188.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">This is the resulting new secondary bevel at the edge. It's hardly any bigger than before honing, because again just a thin layer of metal has been removed.</span></i><br />
<br />
This should have produced a very small burr uniformly across the edge.<br />
<br />
If you have a burr that is not uniform, you are probably rolling the tool sideways as you move. Experiment with different orientations, straight or at 45 degrees, or some other angle, or concentrate on avoiding rolling. Narrow chisels are the trickiest, because there's such a small registration surface.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TLWXwHHfbko/V0yacxtRWyI/AAAAAAAAL7A/oC-ReYPEbgMo0cVRVNeHnbdW8q1tgDPJACKgB/s1600/IMG_7190.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TLWXwHHfbko/V0yacxtRWyI/AAAAAAAAL7A/oC-ReYPEbgMo0cVRVNeHnbdW8q1tgDPJACKgB/s400/IMG_7190.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">On the back, that bright line at the edge is the burr flapped back and reflecting light differently from the rest of the back.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H9nD4bgltIA/V0yac7oa02I/AAAAAAAAL7A/jUsDoLxl9VIIr_AqkmbnASzY2OnSOkEqgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7192.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H9nD4bgltIA/V0yac7oa02I/AAAAAAAAL7A/jUsDoLxl9VIIr_AqkmbnASzY2OnSOkEqgCKgB/s400/IMG_7192.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">On the bevel, after flapping the burr forward with my finger, it's visible against a dark background as a bright line. That dark region is the secondary bevel.</span></i><br />
<br />
To start the removal of the burr, I hold the back of the chisel down flat on the end of the stone and move it sideways back and forth or in circles for 5 strokes. Make sure to keep it flat. Don't lift the handle, or you'll create a back-bevel. While back-bevels can be useful on plane irons, you don't want one on a chisel.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O9VfvDhjCxY/V0yac5-E9ZI/AAAAAAAAL64/nVNZSKd0viAA85v-tBGGmBL6adTbklHJgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7230.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O9VfvDhjCxY/V0yac5-E9ZI/AAAAAAAAL64/nVNZSKd0viAA85v-tBGGmBL6adTbklHJgCKgB/s400/IMG_7230.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Starting burr removal by moving the back of the chisel around flat on the stone for 5 strokes.</span></i><br />
<br />
To further aid in removal, I draw the edge in a slicing motion across the fibers in a scrap of wood.<br />
<br />
<b>Polishing</b><br />
<br />
I dress the strop liberally with compound. Then I hold the chisel at 30 degrees, the same angle the back had on the fine stone, and draw it down the strop, lifting it off to return to the far end. You can't push forward on the strop, because the edge will cut into it.<br />
<br />
I use medium pressure. I don't want to dimple the leather and cause it to run over the edge at a higher angle.<br />
<br />
I count out 5 strokes. Again, that's what works for me.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-40TsTPZ2MF8/V0yac-PGqOI/AAAAAAAAL7A/Jampy3XKvcUdrVRpPCARheOKs_xcATTDACKgB/s1600/IMG_7182.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-40TsTPZ2MF8/V0yac-PGqOI/AAAAAAAAL7A/Jampy3XKvcUdrVRpPCARheOKs_xcATTDACKgB/s400/IMG_7182.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Draw the bevel down the strop for 5 strokes.</span></i><br />
<br />
I draw the back of the chisel flat down the side of the strop for 5 strokes. Again, keep it absolutely flat to avoid creating a back-bevel.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AHnch1BzqVY/V0yacwkCO2I/AAAAAAAAL7A/87DfWc45mz84GqgZaG1btU5anHjz1yX3ACKgB/s1600/IMG_7184.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AHnch1BzqVY/V0yacwkCO2I/AAAAAAAAL7A/87DfWc45mz84GqgZaG1btU5anHjz1yX3ACKgB/s400/IMG_7184.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Draw the back down the strop for 5 strokes.</span></i><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
This usually doesn't completely remove the burr. This is a little more variable because it depends on how big the bits of burr are, how much it was weakened by honing the back and drawing through the piece of wood, how much pressure you use, and the compound you put on the strop.<br />
<br />
So after 5 strokes each side, I start taking alternating single strokes on each side, until as I turn the tool in the light, I don't see any more burr.<br />
<br />
This produces a highly polished back and bevel.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xySST6XTBik/V0yacy9gwhI/AAAAAAAAL7A/xQ-ZTLeHXZYYJTJD2hbrsqjZ2KUA70FMQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7194.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xySST6XTBik/V0yacy9gwhI/AAAAAAAAL7A/xQ-ZTLeHXZYYJTJD2hbrsqjZ2KUA70FMQCKgB/s400/IMG_7194.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">You should be able to read text reflected in the back of the tool.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LyHBVbR9eRY/V0yac_-djdI/AAAAAAAAL7A/GspdSXPumjMaPPCdWhKm0XeGMAlFq1ApQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7195.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LyHBVbR9eRY/V0yac_-djdI/AAAAAAAAL7A/GspdSXPumjMaPPCdWhKm0XeGMAlFq1ApQCKgB/s400/IMG_7195.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">It's not perfectly mirrored, there are still tiny scratches visible.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yMaKAHaK3qE/V0yac1qJ9cI/AAAAAAAAL7A/zhVL9xdrCzw5ReCUEpkRDIKYPbErxyoFwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7196.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yMaKAHaK3qE/V0yac1qJ9cI/AAAAAAAAL7A/zhVL9xdrCzw5ReCUEpkRDIKYPbErxyoFwCKgB/s400/IMG_7196.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The finished edge. As you turn it in the light, it should be highly reflective.</span></i><br />
<br />
<b>Testing</b><br />
<br />
My favorite way of testing an edge is to take white pine end grain shavings with hand pressure. Because white pine is so soft, if the tool is not sharp, it will just crush and break the fibers. But if the tool is sharp, it will shear them off cleanly, producing a feathery shaving and leaving a smooth surface. You should also hear a satisfying schussing sound.<br />
<br />
If the tool seems to cut well but there are scratches in the cut surface, there may be a bit of burr still left behind. Try a few more licks on the strop to see if that clears it up.<br />
<br />
If not, and this is an old tool, there may be tiny cracks or pits in the metal. That might mean the tool is usable for general work where the cut won't be visible, but not for the most visible spots.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V4rZoOE0oxc/V0yacwM3FsI/AAAAAAAAL7A/lBIpl_uHKDUC0Kn1R3Zj7Ow5t5nozH_MwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7197.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V4rZoOE0oxc/V0yacwM3FsI/AAAAAAAAL7A/lBIpl_uHKDUC0Kn1R3Zj7Ow5t5nozH_MwCKgB/s400/IMG_7197.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Slicing cleanly across the end grain, producing a feathery thin shaving.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AShsOMRxMhE/V0yac6hFybI/AAAAAAAAL7A/dXiLy2Ha5pQ6Gn2JaalvODgzbGs5_icBQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7200.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AShsOMRxMhE/V0yac6hFybI/AAAAAAAAL7A/dXiLy2Ha5pQ6Gn2JaalvODgzbGs5_icBQCKgB/s400/IMG_7200.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The clean surface left behind after taking two shavings.</span></i><br />
<br />
That's the real acid test. But a further test I like to do is pare off some chips more along the grain, then examine the surface left behind.<br />
<br />
When a tool is sharp, I can only describe it as buttery going through the wood. The cut surface is gloriously glassy smooth.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N1qIf_93mUw/V0yac9-f64I/AAAAAAAAL7A/EfWlmu9Z7ugRdgp6pJRTcvtuN73UeZMLwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7202.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N1qIf_93mUw/V0yac9-f64I/AAAAAAAAL7A/EfWlmu9Z7ugRdgp6pJRTcvtuN73UeZMLwCKgB/s400/IMG_7202.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Taking long grain chips, like a hot knife through butter.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wJRW_CY5uGk/V0yaczVgOBI/AAAAAAAAL7A/VwUCt830XcMRNqraKwzWv5z46kKgLKMgwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7203.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wJRW_CY5uGk/V0yaczVgOBI/AAAAAAAAL7A/VwUCt830XcMRNqraKwzWv5z46kKgLKMgwCKgB/s400/IMG_7203.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The cut surface, with precisely-defined edges. No tearing of edges or surface.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FAfQrUEo1DU/V0yacwZGp5I/AAAAAAAAL7A/y0UcSQv-YngjlZrAJsjvN63z_ZfgVK37gCKgB/s1600/IMG_7205.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FAfQrUEo1DU/V0yacwZGp5I/AAAAAAAAL7A/y0UcSQv-YngjlZrAJsjvN63z_ZfgVK37gCKgB/s400/IMG_7205.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Repeatedly slicing through the wood is joyous, creating beautiful curls and sharp facets.</span></i><br />
<br />
Of course pine is easy. But you should find the chisel just as effective in hard woods, leaving cleanly sheared surfaces and edges. You just may need to use a mallet instead of hand pressure.<br />
<br />
<b>Review</b><br />
<br />
Take a moment here to note how simple and fast this is:<br />
<ul>
<li>10 strokes grinding.</li>
<li>10 strokes honing.</li>
<li>5 strokes polishing the bevel.</li>
<li>5 strokes polishing the back.</li>
<li>Another 4-10 strokes total polishing.</li>
</ul>
<div>
That's fast. And it's highly effective.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Conditioning</b></div>
<br />
When I first sharpen a tool with this method, I have to condition it to this bevel profile. Whether it has a factory profile, a profile some previous owner put on it, or one I put on it with some different method, I need to spend some time preparing it.<br />
<br />
This is often more than I want to do on my coarse stone. First, there is enough metal to remove that it would be a lot of work on that stone, and second, doing all that work puts more wear on the stone than I like.<br />
<br />
For the heavy shaping required by conditioning, I use a DMT extra-extra coarse diamond plate, held in the divider/auxiliary holder from my kit. Lubricated with water or window cleaner, this thing eats metal.<br />
<br />
I setup the tool with the 23 or 25 degree grinding guide block and work the primary bevel 10-20 strokes at a time, just like on the coarse stone. I check it after each batch of strokes to make sure I'm shaping it as desired and see how close this new primary bevel is getting to the edge. I want it to get within about 1/32".<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k-NKds0Y7AM/V0yaczKf7fI/AAAAAAAAL7A/qC5ctfWWv2osg9KqIT6nkPCC8WX2jMiEwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7207.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k-NKds0Y7AM/V0yaczKf7fI/AAAAAAAAL7A/qC5ctfWWv2osg9KqIT6nkPCC8WX2jMiEwCKgB/s400/IMG_7207.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Conditioning a plane iron to this method on the XX-coarse diamond plate.</span></i><br />
<br />
For a tool is seriously out of shape, I follow up with a few strokes with the 23 or 25 degree honing guide block to work the secondary bevel. On this small surface area, it goes really fast, so be careful about taking too many strokes. If you overdo it, do a couple more strokes on the primary bevel.<br />
<br />
This establishes the bevel profile and relative proportions of primary and secondary bevel that the tool with have moving forward. If you prefer a longer secondary bevel than I use, do a few more strokes on the secondary bevel. Then during calibration you'll determine how many strokes are necessary on the fine stone to hone that larger secondary bevel.<br />
<br />
Once I've done the heavy grinding on the diamond plate, I go back to the regular method. The coarse stone cleans up the heavy scratches left by the plate and takes the primary bevel down just a hair. The fine stone does the same for the secondary bevel.<br />
<br />
With a few tools, I've found it useful to immediately go through an additional coarse and fine sharpening cycle. That extra sharpening gets the shape exactly where I want it.<br />
<br />
Then I finish up with the strop and the tool is conditioned to the method and ready for use.<br />
<br />
<b>Calibration</b><br />
<br />
When I try out a different set of stones, I need to determine how many strokes each one needs. While 10 strokes has worked out as a good general purpose number, some stones are definitely different from others.<br />
<br />
One major difference is when using waterstones. Because I want to avoid scoring or gouging the surface of the stone, I only apply pressure on the back stroke. On the forward stroke, I ease up and just glide over the surface. So the abrasive action is only happening on the trailing half of the round-trip. That means only half the strokes are doing anything, possibly requiring more strokes.<br />
<br />
I calibrate 5 strokes at a time. I setup the appropriate guide block for the stone and take 5 strokes. Then I examine the results. If it needs more I do another 5. I repeat if necessary. In general I prefer to overshoot just a bit. That ensures I'm getting a full sharpening. A couple of extra strokes won't hurt anything.<br />
<br />
For the coarse stone, I have enough when I see the primarily bevel is within 1/32" of the edge.<br />
<br />
For the fine stone, I have enough when I feel a small uniform burr as I run my finger forward along the back and over the edge.<br />
<br />
I keep things simple by using the same number of strokes for different stones and different metals. The result is that the exact profile is a little different depending on which stones I used, due to the relative cutting speeds of the different abrasive types on different modern and old steels.<br />
<br />
Typically, though, you'll probably just use one set of stones, so it's just a matter of calibrating your particular set of stones and tools.<br />
<br />
<b>Plane Irons</b><br />
<br />
Plane irons are exactly the same process. The only additional considerations are that now you're dealing with a much wider surface area for the primary and secondary bevels, you may want to feather the sides of the edge, and you may have a skewed or cambered iron.<br />
<br />
For plane irons that are flat, not tapered, I use the 25 and 30 degree guide blocks. Some irons for wooden planes are tapered, so I use the 23 and 28 degree blocks. Specialty plane irons such as low-angle bevel-up planes may call for other angles.<br />
<br />
You may find that the wider iron surface calls for a couple of additional strokes because there's more overall friction. Regardless, make sure you're applying even pressure all across the edge, which may require spreading your fingers across it.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5_T97UuWjbg/V0yac9bhuMI/AAAAAAAAL64/8Fro7JBOnEkCD3BVELUD-nMG8Cma07CdgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7208.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5_T97UuWjbg/V0yac9bhuMI/AAAAAAAAL64/8Fro7JBOnEkCD3BVELUD-nMG8Cma07CdgCKgB/s400/IMG_7208.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Setup on the coarse stone at the 25 degree grinding angle and take 10 strokes.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fCqYh23jyQs/V0yacw75bBI/AAAAAAAAL64/peMd_ynUU0gRCGiZPfToUCAV8xGCCPR_QCKgB/s1600/IMG_7209.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fCqYh23jyQs/V0yacw75bBI/AAAAAAAAL64/peMd_ynUU0gRCGiZPfToUCAV8xGCCPR_QCKgB/s400/IMG_7209.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Setup on the fine stone at the 30 degree honing angle and take 10 strokes.</span></i><br />
<br />
If you want to feather the sides, this is when to do it. Tip one corner just off the stone and apply pressure down on the other corner. Take 10 strokes. Repeat on the opposite corner.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RUKabYX7ysg/V0yac_F2w4I/AAAAAAAAL64/aR46uyVFP5cX0Ajkmh9u__cbBpqfVnjcgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7214.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RUKabYX7ysg/V0yac_F2w4I/AAAAAAAAL64/aR46uyVFP5cX0Ajkmh9u__cbBpqfVnjcgCKgB/s400/IMG_7214.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Feathering the edge on the left, with right corner tipped off the stone and finger pressure on the left corner.</span></i><br />
<div>
<br />
Next lay the end of the back flat on the stone and take 5 circular strokes to work the burr a bit, then run the edge through a scrap of hardwood to weaken it further.</div>
<div>
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ZnlV4Pb04/V0yac4ya06I/AAAAAAAAL64/0TocapJ77h8_VGQCq9waENvG59KAJeUaACKgB/s1600/IMG_7212.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ZnlV4Pb04/V0yac4ya06I/AAAAAAAAL64/0TocapJ77h8_VGQCq9waENvG59KAJeUaACKgB/s400/IMG_7212.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Running the edge through the corner of a scrap of cherry.</span></i><br />
<br />
Dress the strop with compound and strop the secondary bevel and back.<br />
<br /></div>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U0HB2irbcHo/V0yac_iCuuI/AAAAAAAAL64/Gjg1a2ecYJcL0ACXvUN9_8hOn6TWIFqNgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7210.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U0HB2irbcHo/V0yac_iCuuI/AAAAAAAAL64/Gjg1a2ecYJcL0ACXvUN9_8hOn6TWIFqNgCKgB/s400/IMG_7210.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Drawing the secondary bevel down the strop for 5 strokes at 30 degrees.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_suvIYUUqA/V0yac84zvuI/AAAAAAAAL64/jcy30E5Ba8Mipnle0GOriW9tn0h5uQdNwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7211.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_suvIYUUqA/V0yac84zvuI/AAAAAAAAL64/jcy30E5Ba8Mipnle0GOriW9tn0h5uQdNwCKgB/s400/IMG_7211.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Drawing the back flat down the strop for 5 strokes.</span></i><br />
<br />
Repeat alternating strop strokes as necessary to remove the last vestiges of burr. Remember that any little bit left behind will leave scratches in the planed surface.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qMKQZL9D3Yc/V0yaczKJa3I/AAAAAAAAL64/w2hBvkdfOM8CbsoxcTUvdME4YvWi6tU3gCKgB/s1600/IMG_7215.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qMKQZL9D3Yc/V0yaczKJa3I/AAAAAAAAL64/w2hBvkdfOM8CbsoxcTUvdME4YvWi6tU3gCKgB/s400/IMG_7215.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The end-grain shaving test, producing beautiful feathery shavings and leaving a cleanly-sheared surface.</span></i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L4Q9QOs1jDw/V0yac3KZIXI/AAAAAAAAL64/cF3tOAQaTUgT1PB4JjXJjxavIHR5I2TrwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7216.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L4Q9QOs1jDw/V0yac3KZIXI/AAAAAAAAL64/cF3tOAQaTUgT1PB4JjXJjxavIHR5I2TrwCKgB/s400/IMG_7216.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">The long-grain shaving test, taking beautiful curls and leaving a glassy surface.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wJVTtCAjRTA/V0yaczLKrKI/AAAAAAAAL64/Qwp1YLNSeHsff9HsGFnCFOcT-uG-3zEWgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7218.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wJVTtCAjRTA/V0yaczLKrKI/AAAAAAAAL64/Qwp1YLNSeHsff9HsGFnCFOcT-uG-3zEWgCKgB/s400/IMG_7218.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Planing end grain, producing long continuous pencil-sharpener shavings and leaving a clean surface.</span></i><br />
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<b>Skewed Irons</b><br />
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There's really nothing special about doing skewed irons. You just hold the iron skewed as you align it to the guide block. Then you maintain that skew as you do your strokes.<br />
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This may be a bit more awkward to hold and maintain, but shouldn't be difficult.<br />
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<b>Cambered Irons</b><br />
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A cambered iron is similar to a feathered edge, except you need to apply the camber at the grinding stage as well as the honing stage.<br />
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I do the edge in linear segments, flat across the center, than working to each side in two segments, then just a little across the points where the segments meet. This produces an approximation of the true curve of the camber, and is sufficient for irons used for rough work, such as as scrub and jack planes.<br />
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If I want to smooth out this approximation, I hold the iron at the proper angle, then rotate it sideways left and right from my wrist, tipping the edge as I move through the stroke to make the sure the entire curve goes through contact with the stone.<br />
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<b>Other Types Of Stones</b><br />
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This method works with any kind of stone, and should work with any kind of abrasive surface, such as sandpaper or abrasive films. Whatever you use, you just need coarse and fine grits.<br />
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I've used it succesfully with DMT Duo-Sharp diamond plates, Ohishi non-soak ceramic waterstones, and Norton pre-soak waterstones.<br />
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You can even use a single combination coarse/fine stone as a low-cost alternative. I've used a humble Norton IB8 combination India stone; it wasn't even a full stone, just a shortened one where a 2" chunk had been broken off, equivalent to an IB6.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o4_4FZlfKGY/V0yac_zywQI/AAAAAAAAL64/RfhkapeL1n80CIwckUYWuQnV4YHg2TRHgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7219.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o4_4FZlfKGY/V0yac_zywQI/AAAAAAAAL64/RfhkapeL1n80CIwckUYWuQnV4YHg2TRHgCKgB/s400/IMG_7219.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using DMT Duo-Sharp diamond plates, Black and Green color codes.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vAvKZpt6fWA/V0yac_dtEeI/AAAAAAAAL64/xdGE_jM7t_MioHy225aLvH02HbUf6xx3ACKgB/s1600/IMG_7220.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vAvKZpt6fWA/V0yac_dtEeI/AAAAAAAAL64/xdGE_jM7t_MioHy225aLvH02HbUf6xx3ACKgB/s400/IMG_7220.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using Ohishi waterstones, 1,000 and 10,000 grits. There's a DMT Dia-Flat lapping plate at the far end for flattening them. Looks like I need to cut this holder down to eliminate the extra space! Also, you can see I used to use a green chromium oxide stick on my strop.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V6fwqZoBHag/V0yac85ETxI/AAAAAAAAL64/yQiKZbNiQ-0rCruD3mvM3BcpNSXCenmVgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7221.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V6fwqZoBHag/V0yac85ETxI/AAAAAAAAL64/yQiKZbNiQ-0rCruD3mvM3BcpNSXCenmVgCKgB/s400/IMG_7221.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using Norton waterstones, 1,000 and 8,000 grits. There's a DMT Dia-Sharp coarse plate for flattening them.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aeGXwqgapV8/V0yac8qgEAI/AAAAAAAAL64/UQQKvhnejMsURICLjYkBpw9ZcaJshLojgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7222.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aeGXwqgapV8/V0yac8qgEAI/AAAAAAAAL64/UQQKvhnejMsURICLjYkBpw9ZcaJshLojgCKgB/s400/IMG_7222.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Using a 6" chunk of Norton IB8 combination India stone.</span></i><br />
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I found the Ohishi stones produced the finest edge right off the stone, but the strop was the great equalizer. It may offer the least benefit for those stones, but it brought all the other stones up on par with them, so any of them work equally well with this method.<br />
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Just remember that regardless of how good a job the fine stone does, the strop is still necessary to remove the last remnants of burr and polish out the microscopically jagged edge it leaves behind.<br />
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When choosing which type of stones to use, it's a matter of deciding which mess and other considerations (such as flattening stones) you want to deal with.<br />
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<b>Spokeshave Irons</b><br />
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Spokeshaves and other specialty tools have short irons of varying widths. These can be difficult to hold, and even harder to align to the angle blocks.<br />
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For these I've made up an auxiliary holder that acts as an extension handle. This makes these stubby blades much easier to manage.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ftFX0esk3BM/V0yacz7i9sI/AAAAAAAAL64/DXWoFTN6jSMDl29cwTY3aioOJ_ftu1fNQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7226.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ftFX0esk3BM/V0yacz7i9sI/AAAAAAAAL64/DXWoFTN6jSMDl29cwTY3aioOJ_ftu1fNQCKgB/s400/IMG_7226.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Setting up for honing with a spokeshave iron in the auxiliary holder.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R158Rxw-cJk/V0yac6Uo6fI/AAAAAAAAL64/KXNLth23rKA1E0AbIfc_ShhJhidOQnWvACKgB/s1600/IMG_7225.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R158Rxw-cJk/V0yac6Uo6fI/AAAAAAAAL64/KXNLth23rKA1E0AbIfc_ShhJhidOQnWvACKgB/s400/IMG_7225.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Closeup of the alignment and primary bevel gap.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u9CriIXouOg/V0yac6tCYOI/AAAAAAAAL64/v9A2KUwBYagL02rXvx_5Qawabm4MrjQQACKgB/s1600/IMG_7228.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u9CriIXouOg/V0yac6tCYOI/AAAAAAAAL64/v9A2KUwBYagL02rXvx_5Qawabm4MrjQQACKgB/s400/IMG_7228.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Top view of the holder, with a knob-attached screw for tightening.</span></i><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hQTWFWGhclw/V0yac0zpIRI/AAAAAAAAL64/JDpOWco4Uw45gZ86ahP8CnTcn00PI0dDwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7229.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hQTWFWGhclw/V0yac0zpIRI/AAAAAAAAL64/JDpOWco4Uw45gZ86ahP8CnTcn00PI0dDwCKgB/s400/IMG_7229.jpg" /></a><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;">Bottom view, with a square nut let in so it can sit flat against the angle block. A longer screw in the handle would've been nice!</span></i><br />
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Continue to <a href="http://www.closegrain.com/2016/06/two-stones-and-strop-part-2.html">part 2</a> to see how to make the angled guide blocks.Steve Branamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10526202082032043903noreply@blogger.com23