After taking the box out of the clamps, I loaded it up with tools to check capacity and weight: 55 lbs. without lid. So not a total gutbuster, but not light either. At least I can move it in and out of my van by myself and put it on a dolly.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJkDp8n3I/AAAAAAAACLc/tfgkMoA-S0c/s400/img_0801-1.jpg)
Plenty of room for stuff! Not that I'd want to carry chisels and things loose like this.
The next step was to make the lid. I wanted a raised panel inside a frame lip (not a flat frame).
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJlOva4OI/AAAAAAAACLg/HTDLjWP_GxI/s400/img_0802-1.jpg)
Glue up for the top panel. Pinch dogs hold the joint well; you can see the glue squeeze out from the pressure. Just make sure you leave enough rough length to saw off the end holes after it's dry.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJl7qeLYI/AAAAAAAACLk/L2ZAAcP6dkw/s400/img_0803-1.jpg)
Ripping the stock for the top frame; after ripping the thick stock for my portable workbench, this thin stuff is child's play, about 30 seconds to rip down the 6-foot length. Then I cut the pieces to rough length, jointed them, shot the ends, formed a frame one dovetail high, and grooved it for the panel.
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJmiyIj-I/AAAAAAAACLo/6JTvPlEoL6U/s400/img_0805-1.jpg)
Raising the panel: across the grain with a badger plane. I got the iron razor sharp, but the sole needs work, so this is a bit rough to handle. Still, the skewed iron takes a satisfying end-shaving, like a giant pencil sharpener.
![](http://lh5.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJngVo4WI/AAAAAAAACLs/I8aYO3LnSn8/s400/img_0806-1.jpg)
Fine cleanup with a block plane. Note the tearout at the edge: this is the reason for doing the end grain first. This was even after having chamfered the edge.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJoRck3SI/AAAAAAAACL0/MNr860CZqmI/s400/img_0807-1.jpg)
Raising the side using a #6 with a new Pinnacle blade. Nice fine cut. It's awkward planing left-handed (naturally, the grain ran the wrong direction), but I just concentrated on fundamental form holding it.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJplOXOpI/AAAAAAAACL4/mik8SWM5gis/s400/img_0813.jpg)
Fine tuning the width with a block plane after test fitting in the frame.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJqg5WtoI/AAAAAAAACL8/Kw7xnCdUQx0/s400/img_0814.jpg)
Test fitting the completed lid before glue-up. The panel floats free in the groove, which means the side of the lid will probably bow a bit. We'll see how that design plays out over time.
At this point the box was structurally complete. However, the dovetails were what I call "10-foot dovetails," meaning they only look good from a distance of 10 feet or more. I crosscut a piece of scrap and chiseled off tiny wedges to fill the worst spots and at least turn them into 2-foot dovetails.
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJrQ8GswI/AAAAAAAACMA/rLXMLQsRuwA/s400/img_0815.jpg)
Wedges fitted into the gaps where I screwed up the baseline.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKMnIhEH-I/AAAAAAAACMs/vSxT4UNDvp8/s400/img_0816.jpg)
Cleaning up using a #4 smoother with another Pinnacle blade. The good replacement blade instantly showed that the sole needed work, so I gave the bottom a good lapping on sandpaper on glass to 320 grit, getting it satiny smooth. Now it takes a fine smooth shaving. This plane has enough mass to cleanly cut the dovetail end-grain, followed by a swooping lift-off motion at the end.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJtK30nJI/AAAAAAAACMI/kaEjl9C0clI/s400/img_0817.jpg)
Leveling the joints. A well-tuned smoother means you can fit it with great precision.
After this, it was just a matter of hardware installation. I couldn't find heavy-duty handles in brass finish.
![](http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJt27SbsI/AAAAAAAACMM/xFxCmS1SFeg/s400/img_0818.jpg)
The completed box with just the tools from my minimum list. You could build just about anything with this load.
![](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJukShy9I/AAAAAAAACMQ/xmhnUnANdCw/s400/img_0819.jpg)
Closed up for travel. Total weight: 62 lbs.
![](http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6qAGOXP58V0/TKKJv-qlBnI/AAAAAAAACMU/aAoCiVG49Dk/s400/img_0821.jpg)
What's in your toolbox? A bit crowded, but everything's sufficiently secure. I screwed small cleats to the bottom to keep the planes from sliding around. The saws sit in kerfed blocks glued to the bottom. The machinist's square is safely nestled in a fitted hanger on the right end. The two pig-sticker mortise chisels are in wooden holsters made by chiseling mating recesses in two halves and gluing them together, the method for making a Japanese saw handle. The roll holds other chisels, screwdrivers, marking gauge, bevel gauge, awl, and marking knife. Another roll holds auger bits and countersink bit. I tried to get a full set of sharpening stones in as well, but between weight and space, just couldn't make it.
It's full of little mistakes and imperfections, but it's sturdy and functional. If I paint it, I'll probably use Mike Dunbar's two-color milk paint method; I like the weathered look that produces. It'll do the job of protecting my tools until I can refine my skills and build a showcase chest (maybe in 10 years).
Now I just need to build a few more to carry the additional tools beyond the minimum set, as well as duplicates to equip several students.