(Go back to part 1)
Second version of the miter shooting board, per Paul Sellers' article.
Paul Sellers did a blog post on his shooting board that provided some additional information. It also turns out he had a very nice article on the subject in the December, 2006 issue of Popular Woodworking, along with a PDF containing expanded information available for download from the magazine's website.
When I saw the PDF, I realized I had seen it before, but had lost track of it. I dug out my copy of the magazine and made another shooting board according to the article. I used poplar for this one, which is a little harder to work than the pine. The tapered wedges for the stops kept slipping in my vise when I was forming them with the chisel.
This version maintains the same orientation of the miter wedges as the last one I made, since that's what Paul described in his article. While that differs from what I've seen in other books, it's simply a different design. It also has two 90 degree shooting positions, so it requires one wedge cut at 45 on the end and one at 90. You move a wedge to the matching recess to shoot the opposite angle.
One challenge is that it's tricky to get identical recesses for the wedges. It's easy enough to just make four separate wedges. The reason for the tapered stops in the first place is to allow them to be trimmed as they get chewed up over time. Then just take a swipe off the taper with a plane and tap them back into place. The recesses on the shooting board need to be cut precisely, so it's worth trying a couple for practice. Even with a perfectly made board, you still have to be careful handling the plane.
Once again, I've made a sped-up video so you can see the process without falling asleep.